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DIY : Honda Civic 1987-2000 Front Brake Calipers Maintenance/rebuild

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Well…safety is always the first, this is the part and mechanism that make sure your life is under safety term when you drive your machine, but you also need to make sure this mechanism is safety to use, especially when the mileages is beyond 100 000km, inspection is crucial…

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Remove the banjo bolt and disconnect the brake hose from caliper, don’t worry about brake fluid, after sometime brake fluid will stop flowing. It’s a good idea to have something to catch the excess brake fluid that will drain from the lines. For example, half of empty mineral bottle.

Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the caliper bracket bolts (if you want to service and paint your caliper bracket).

Wow!

Apply compressed air to the caliper fluid inlet to get the piston out, be-careful, make sure your fingers in safety place. For cushioning, place wooden piece or rag in front of piston.

Inspection…

Result : Need to replace the piston, piston seal and piston boot.

Comparison between old and new piston, piston seal and piston boot.

Clean the cylinder groove and all parts as clean as you can!

Painting time!

Install the new piston seal.

This is the tricky part, to install piston with the piston boot in the cylinder. Firstly, install the boot onto the piston with the correct position.

Next, hmm, the picture will tell you more…

Slightly and slowly insert the outer boot lip in the cylinder groove, corner by corner using fingers and a small flat-head screwdriver (be-careful, you may tear the boot) .

Yeah, passion is need here…

Done!

Make sure the boot in the right place.

Reassembly all back together using reverse step, re-grease the caliper pin and install the new brake pads.

Hmm, satisfy enough…

Make the bleeding proces. Now, it’s time to rolling again!

DIY : 92-95 Honda Civic Fuel Filter Replacement

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Someone maybe wonder, “fuel filter? I never thought that thing ever exist in my car!”, yes, that thing is not famous as oil filter or air filter, but equivalent important too,  year after year, there can be a fair amount of rust and debris in the fuel tank, some come from the time when you adding fuel, and fuel filter will plugged and the fuel pressure will drop as well, and that’s not sound good right? The filter should be replaced every 2 years or 40 000 km, whichever come first, and it’s a just cheap and simple preventative maintenance.

Disconnected the negative cable from the battery negative terminal.

Put rag or shop towel under and around the fuel filter, hold the banjo bolt with 17mm wrench and remove the service bolt with 12mm wrench, this procedure is to relive fuel pressure.

Remove the banjo bolt and fuel feed pipe from the filter. Remove the fuel filter clamp by removing the clamping bolt (blue circle – refer above picture).

Come from the old filter, this is the reason why…

New fuel filter, come with the washer, install everything back in the reverse order of removal, and done.

DIY : 92-95 Honda Civic Nippondenso Alternator Whining & Carbon Brush & Bearing Replacement

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When I turn on all heavy load, I mean amp load (air-conditioner, headlights (HI), fog lights, audio system, etc.) the alternator will start make whining noise like my blander machine. Inspection & suspecting;

1. I measure the battery voltage (engine at the normal operating temperature), seem normal, between 13.9 – 15.1 Voltage, depend on the load as long as it doesn’t exceed and below the range (to improve fuel economy, the alternator control system within the PGM-FI ECU changes the voltage generated at the alternator in accordance with the driving conditions). That mean my battery is under charge and voltage regulator is functioning.

2. I didn’t suspect the bearing, worn bearing will whining all the time.

3. Check the belt condition and belt deflection (5-7mm), seem OK.

4. Luckily, I have the spare alternator, take from the car graveyard, make the replacement, no more whining anymore! So, that’s mean, my alternator almost at the dead end, the whining come from electrical noise, the replacement is essential.

This is the step for alternator replacement, disconnect the cable from the battery negative (-) terminal and disconnect the alternator connector from the alternator. Remove the terminal nut and the white wire from the B terminal.

Also, don’t forget to dis-clip the white cable that attach to the alternator body.

Alternative – Make more work space by dis-clip the wire connectors. You will see clearly the adjusting nut.

Remove the adjusting nut and then remove adjusting bolt.

Jack stand the car, remove the left tire and under the alternator, there is alternator through bolt, remove it.

Loosen the belt by moving the alternator and then, remove it. Then carefully take out the alternator.

If you just want to make the new alternator replacement, just install everything back in the reverse order of removal, make sure everything in their place, and make the belting adjustment by adjusting the alternator adjusting bolt. But in my case, I need to refreshing my used alternator by cleaning, replace the bearing and the carbon brush.

At the alternator end cover, remove everything in the blue circle (This is how I use to short my text)

And again. Then remove the voltage regulator, diode and brush holder.

Again…

Inspect the slip rings, not in the bad condition…

Remove the pulley locknut (it is easy if you have an impact wrench/gun) and remove the pulley.

Loosen the rear housing (I used flat screw driver) from drive end housing.

Knock a little bit to loosen the housing.

Tap down the rotor shaft at the solid surface to split the housing, be careful, not too much. I don’t what to call this method, but it’s work!

Remove the rotor by using the bearing puller.

Polishing the slip rings using small grits sand paper.

Check the continuity between the slip rings and no continuity between slip rings and the rotor or rotor shaft.

New set of carbon brush, make by TRIS Inc. , carbon brushes specialist company from Japan.

The old one still could be use, as long as you could see the company logo , but it is a good practice to replace alternator carbon brush that run over than 200 000 km.

Alternator brushes length : Standard : 10.5mm, service limit : 5.5mm.

Soldering set.

De-soldering.

Alternator brushes length : Standard : 10.5mm

Soldering.

Remove the bearing retainer.

This is how I remove the front bearing, using suitable socket, and hammer it out.

Comparison with the old and the new bearing (KOYO 437 vs NSK 817-101DG8B).

The better procedure to install the bearing is using the press machine.

Install back the bearing retainer.

Comparison with the old and the new bearing (NSK 399 vs NSK 6202DW).

Use the same method from the previous one to remove the old bearing, be careful with the spacer ring.

In my case I am using 27 deep length socket size.

The better procedure to install the bearing is using the press machine.

Insert back the rotor into the big and small bearing housing using hand force.

Using back 27 deep length socket size to cover the slip rings.

Hammer down the rotor shaft until the two halves close together and tighten the four nuts to fasten the casing together.

Install everything back in the reverse order of removal, make sure everything in their place, easy right?

Great link : http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/alternatorgeneratortheory.htm ,

http://www.eham.net/articles/15113 , http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182896-1.html

DIY : 92-95 Honda Civic Power Steering Pump Overhaul/Rebuild

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High pitched whine and leaking at the power steering pump? That only means shaft bearing failure and seals leak. No more wonder anymore, time to rebuild!

Detached power steering pump reservoir tank from bracket and raise it, cover up anything with rag, towel or paper that have probability of contact with oil.

Disconnected outlet hose by remove two bolts (red circle) and undo the clamp on the inlet hose (green circle).

Pinch the inlet hose and remove inlet hose from the pump the put the end of hose into the bottle to drain the oil.

To make your life easier, crack open a few degree (about 5 degree) pump cover bolts (green circle), it’s better to do now than later (after pump out). Remove the belt by loosening adjusting bolt (red circle) and remove the special bolts (black & white circle).

Remove the pump from the engine.

So, this the power steering pump repair kit and NTN bearing.

Remove the pulley by remove the pulley nut. Warning: Pulley nut has left-hand threads, that mean, remove the nut by clockwise. And the nut is PRETTY HARD to remove.

Remove the control valve cap by removing three flange bolts (green circle).

Remove the control valve spring, control valve and O-ring (replace).

Check for wear, burrs, and other damage to the edges of the grooves in the valve.

Remove the inlet joint and O-ring (replace).

Remove the pump cover and O-ring (replace).

Then remove all the inner pieces, remembering how they were placed.

Remove the circlip,

then remove the drive shaft assembly from the pump housing using a hammer, knock carefully at the drive shaft end.

For me, even the bearing still play good (no noisy or excessive play), I will replace it, since it make over 4000 times marathon running and also for peace in mind. Remove by using hammer, better big hammer, don’t be shy, it will pop out, I mean, POP! Then install the new bearing (the quality one please), the plastic side should be facing the threads. And of course, the better procedure is using the press machine.

Install the new oil seal in the pump housing by hand,

then install the pump seal spacer.

Install the pump driver shaft assembly, using hammer and impact deep socket that fit enough into inner diameter, or you will break the plastic cover, and honestly, it will better if you could use the socket that really fit the outer diameter (maybe around 27mm socket that I didn’t have), but the housing is not so tight, hammer it slowly, and of course, once again, the better procedure is using the press machine.

Until the bearing is completely below the circlip groove.

Install the circlip with its tapered side facing out.

Coat the side plate grooves with power steering fluid then insert new O-rings so on for the pump cover.

Install the preload spring and the tallest roller in the pump housing,

set the side plate over the tallest roller and install it on the pump housing with ‘O’ mark facing upward then insert the shortest roller.

Assemble pump rotor to the drive shaft with the ‘O’ mark facing upward, set the 10 vanes in the grooves in the rotor, be sure that round end of the vanes is in contact with the sliding surface of the cam ring.

Set the pump cam ring over the two rollers (don’t worry, the holes have a different diameter) with the ‘O’ mark facing upward.

Align the projection on the pump housing and the projection on the pump cover (blue oval) and tighten the four bolts.

Install the control valve in the reverse order of removal.

Install back the pulley and done!

Replace the outlet hose O-ring.

Install everything back in the reverse order of removal, make sure everything in their place, if there are cracks or any damage evident on the belt, replace it with a new one, turn the adjusting bolts to get the proper belt tension, then re-tighten two special bolts.

Fill the reservoir tank with the new GENUINE HONDA power steering fluid to the upper level mark. Start the engine and run it at fast idle, and then turn the steering from lock-to-lock several times to bleed air from the system. Recheck the fluid level and add some if necessary. DO NOT FILL THE RESERVOIR BEYOND THE UPPER LEVER. Stop the engine and recheck the reflection of the belt, adjusting back if necessary.

Happy no power steering pump leaking days!  

DIY : Honda Civic 1987-2000 Crack Steering Boot/Dust Seal Replacement

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 I replace this dust seal before, using the OEM Honda, but, I think it is not durable as original, I mean the old one, this is a little ‘bit disappointed’…

Check for the leaking, if your power steering reservoir runs low, no matter how frequently you top up the fluid, you should check entire power steering system, there must be leakage somewhere. Check the steering gearbox (steering rack system), pump, reservoir, pump outlet line (high pressure), low pressure hoses and pipe. Click here if you want to rebuild the entire steering rack.

Remove the cotton pin.

I highly recommend you to using ball joint remover instead of using hammer or etc.

Marking the alignment point with the tape to make sure the wheel alignment didn’t goes so far, I also note the threads, remove the boot band and the tube clamp.

Remove the tie-rod end, it’s tough and stubborn sometime…

Remove the crack dust seal. It’s a good time to re-grease  rack end ball joint and steering rack gear, my old grease is melting, should put the high temp grease…

Insert the new dust seal, reassembly all back together using reverse step.

This is the boring maintenance that I ever do….

Car ECU Electrolytic Capacitors Leak/Burn/Dies

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This is also a very important preventive maintenance, especially ECU (Electronic Computer Unit) over than 15 years, when the capacitor face a lifespan issue cause by temperatures and ripple currents, electrolyte leaked and will damage your beloved ECU, the most terrible disaster is, your car will stop automatically and your mood change dramatically.

I attached the bad capacitor on the Honda’s ECU that I collected from Mr. WWW, this will happen to your ECU too, it is only a matter of time, so, beware!

Scary enough? The solution is simple, replace all the electrolytic capacitor that available on your ECU board. But, make sure you buy the right and quality replacement, especially the capacitance value (µF), the voltage is not critical, as long is higher than spec, for example, if your spec is 10µF 10v, you also could use 10µF 35v or 50v, this also will give you advantage, cause usually, the higher voltage rate, the higher durability but also come with the big size dimension.

Today I will replace electrolytic capacitor on my Honda 37820-P30-901  ECU (not all P30 series Honda ECU have same capacitor number/location) , I did do original parts (Nichicon PR Series) and replacement parts comparison that I could get from Element14, I sort all the best to find the very best, this is the final list, which is stock available;

Note : N = Nichicon, R = Rubycon, P = Panasonic

Model (Series) N PR R ZLJ N PR R ZLJ
capacitance value (µF) 220 220 100 100
Voltage Value 35v 50v 35v 35v
Case Size (DxL) 10×12.5 10×16 8×11.5 6.3×11
Impedance 0.24 0.053 0.5 0.17
Allowable Ripple 325 1650 190 700
Load Life (hours ) 2000 10 000 1000 7000
Location on Board C27 C27 C94 C94
Order Code (Element14) NA

2102453

NA

1831279

Model (Series) N PR P FC Type A N PR N HE
capacitance value (µF) 47 47 220 220
Voltage Value 10v 10v 10v 10v
Case Size (DxL) 5×11 4×11 6.3×11 6.3×11
Impedance 2.1 1.3 0.58 0.22
Allowable Ripple 75 120 180 340
Load Life (hours ) 1000 1000 1000 4000
Location on Board C36 C36 C31 C31
Order Code (Element14) NA

1848416

NA

1823627

Model (Series) N PR N HE S N PR N HE
capacitance value (µF) 33 33 100 100
Voltage Value 35v 35v 10v 10v
Case Size (DxL) 5×11 5×11 5×11 5×11
Impedance 1.9 0.58 1.9 0.58
Allowable Ripple 85 210 100 210
Load Life (hours ) 1000 5000 1000 4000
Location on Board C32,C28 C32,C28 C34 C34
Order Code (Element14) NA

1823672

NA

1823624

For references:

Good Capacitor Series

Listed from left to right, good to best:

  • Rubycon: YXG, YXH, ZL, ZA (disc.), ZLH, ZLG, MBZ (disc.), MCZ
  • Panasonic: FM, FK, HFQ (disc.), FC, FA
  • Nichicon: HZ, HE, HD, HV, PW, PM, PL
  • Sanyo OS-CON: WX, WG, SVP, SEP, SC, SL, SVPA, SVPC, SEPC, SPA, SP, SA
  • Chemicon: KY, KZE, KLH, KZG, KZH, KZJ
  • Unicon: KGM, KXM, KEM

OK, stop with the technical data, if you have skill to soldering, you will save some paper on your wallet, otherwise, you could borrow somebody skill, just  DON’T FORGET ABOUT THE POLARITY.

The targets

The parts

The tools

Done!

This is the first time I wrote other than oil leakage, current leakage also could be dangerous, didn’t see, silent, until  it appear, like a ghost! Will scare you until your wallet is leakage too…

Tranquility 2

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Honda Civic FD2 Type-R K20A – The Art to Make the Dreaming Power

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This is my continuation of my entry – Honda Civic EK9 Type-R B16B – The Art of Automotive Engineering – This is about how an artist refine they tools, to make another masterpiece! If want to talk about Civic Type-R, Why not including the EP3 and FN2 chassis? Not racist or something like that, but I only consider JDM-Spec version is the real Civic Type-R, available in Japan and Malaysia only! (It was the first time that any Type R JDM model was launched outside of Japan).

Introduction

 

The Honda Civic Type R is the highest performance version of the Honda Civic made by Honda Motor Company of Japan. It features a lightened and stiffened body, specially tuned engine and upgraded brakes and chassis. Red is also used in the interior to give it a special sporting distinction and to separate it from other Honda models. In Japan, a one-make series of Honda Type R cars where privateers can purchase an off-road Type R and compete in a series championship is a stepping stone for many aspiring racing drivers.

FD2 chassis (Asian version)

The Japanese market Civic Type R (FD2) went on sale on March 30, 2007. For the first time, the JDM Civic was sold as a four-door sports sedan rather than a three-door hot hatch. Using the Japanese market four-door sedan as a base model meaning the new Type R is now bigger, wider and heavier. More importantly, the wheelbase has grown from 2,570 mm (101.2 in) to 2,700 mm (106.3 in), giving the FD2R a more stable stance in high speed cornering. The new Japanese model’s engine output is higher than the European version’s, with 225 PS (165 kW; 222 hp) being developed at 8,400 rpm and 215 N·m (159 lb·ft) of torque peaking at 6,100 rpm (versus 201 PS (148 kW; 198 hp) at 7,800 rpm and 193 N·m (142 lb·ft) at 5,600 rpm for the European model). The base engine itself is borrowed from the Accord Euro R CL7 with its longer intake manifold. Changes have been made to the block in terms of mounting points for ancillary parts making it different from previous K20A. New technology such as drive-by-wire throttle and porting of the intake valve ports using techniques from the NSX are implemented. Honda says mid-range is increased by 10 PS (7 kW; 10 hp). Drive is fed through a close-ratio six-speed gearbox, and a helical limited slip differential is fitted as standard. The front brake discs increased from the DC5R’s 300 mm (11.8 in) to 320 mm (12.6 in) are fitted with four pot Brembo calipers. Tire size are now 225/40 R18 Bridgestone Potenza RE070.

Exterior wise, the front bumper is different from the standard Civic designed aerodynamically. The rear bumper features a diffuser built into the bumper and completing the aero package with a huge rear wing. Inside, the trademark black and red bucket seats are no longer made by Recaro as with previous versions, but designed in house by Honda. Also gone is the Momo made steering wheel, instead replaced by a Honda made version. The familiar red-on-black colour scheme or black-on-black scheme is offered on the Championship White version and Super Platinum Metallic Silver versions while a black-on-black scheme with red stitching is for the Vivid Blue Pearl only.

In October 2008, the Civic received a minor face lift. The standard and hybrid versions now had the same front bumper as the Type R while a redesigned tail lamps changes the round insets into octagons. The Type R also received new available colours, with Premium White Pearl, Premium Deep Violet Pearl and Crystal Black Pearl being added and Vivid Blue Pearl being dropped.

In back to back tests the FD2 Type-R was on average 1 second quicker than the (DC5) Integra Type-R at the Tsukuba Circuit and four seconds faster at the longer Suzuka Circuit.

In a back to back test on the United Kingdom TV program 5th Gear, the FD2 Type-R was three seconds quicker than the equivalent FN2 UK version around Castle Combe Circuit in the wet. Source : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Civic_Type_R

– End of Introduction –

There is nothing to compare with the base model, so, comparison should be make with the close cousin, Honda Integra DC5 Type-R,

Body

Model Variant TYPE R TYPE R
Car Series ABA-FD2 LA-DC5
Year 2007 – 2010 2001 – 2006
Doors and Body Style 4DR Sedan 3DR Hatch
Engine Size 1998 cc K20A Spec R 1998 cc K20A Spec R
Fuel System MULTI POINT F/INJ MULTI POINT F/INJ
Cylinders 4 4
Transmission 6M with Torque sensitive Helical LSD 6M with Torque sensitive Helical LSD
Front Brakes BREMBO aluminum 4 pot calipers,320mm Vented Discs, Exclusive setting ABS BREMBO aluminum 4 pot calipers, 300mm Vented Discs, ABS
Rear Brakes 282mm Disc 262mm Disc
Wheel Dimension 225/40R18 215/45R17
Turning Circle 11.8m 11.4m
Tank Capacity 50 liters 50 liters
Exterior Length 4540mm 4385mm
Exterior Width 1770mm 1725mm
Exterior Height 1430mm 1385mm
Front Track 1505mm 1485mm
Rear Track 1515mm 1485mm
Wheel Base 2700mm 2570mm
Front Suspension McPherson Strut McPherson Strut
Rear Suspension Double Wishbone Double Wishbone
Kerb Weight 1270kg1250 kg (non-mounted air conditioner) 1180kg
Stabilizer (F/R) size 26.3mm/21.4mm 23.8×2.8mm (Hollow) / 22mm (Solid)
Wheel size 18Inch 17Inch
Ground Clearance 135mm 130mm
Top Speed 231+ km/h (JDM limited to 187 km/h) 235+ km/h (JDM limited to 187 km/h)

Power Section

Engine

Engine Type K20A DOHC i-VTEC Spec R JDM N/A K20A DOHC i-VTEC Spec R JDM N/A
Bore and Stroke 86.0 x 86.0 mm 86.0 x 86.0 mm
Maximum Output 225bhp /8000rpm 220bhp /8000rpm
Maximum Torque 21.9kg-m/6100rpm 21kg-m/7000rpm
Displacement 1998cc 1998cc
Compression 11.7:1 11.5:1
Maximum RPM 8400rpm 8400rpm
Spark Plug Type No. 7 iridium heat value No. 7 iridium heat value
Throttle Bore Diameter 64mm 62mm
Intake Manifold Single pipe sideflow shorten Single pipe sideflow
Air Intake Diameter 75mm 70mm
Exhaust Manifold 4-to-2 4-to-2
Exhaust Pipe Diameter 54mm 54mm
Piston RRC 11.7:1 Compression PRC 11.5:1 Compression
Block Height 212mm 212mm

Drivetrain

LSD Torque sensitive Helical LSD Torque sensitive Helical LSD
1st 3.266 3.266
2nd 2.130 2.130
3rd 1.517 1.517
4th 1.147 1.212
5th 0.921 0.972
6th 0.738 0.780
Final Gear Ratio -/ 5.062 -/ 4.764
Flywheel ultra lightweight, CrMo steel, 0.054kgm2 mass inertia, Weight : 4.7kg ultra lightweight, CrMo steel, 0.054kgm2 mass inertia, Weight : 4.7kg

The Dream

The fifteen years of dream…hard-core of fans waited, how the Honda build up from the dream into the reality, everything is start from scratch, to seriously challenge many ‘performance-cars’ out there! Before we go further, some K series trivia: first released in 2001, Over 10 years Honda has released more than 10 versions of K20 engines, two numbers behind the letter indicates the displacement(ex; 20,23,24), and the following letter and number indicate the version (ex; A, A3, A4, A6, Z2). All K-Series have the i-VTEC badge, Honda describes i-VTEC as a combination of VTEC and VTC, however the way i-VTEC operates is not the same on all K-Series. To describe about i-VTEC technology, maybe I need to open new entry like I did on VTEC, but read VTEC and watch below video will help a lot,

 

 

But I just to focus on the real deal K series version that attached on JDM Honda Civic FD2 Type-R, let see what they do to optimize K series engine potential,

Porting of the Intake & Exhaust Valve Ports Using Techniques From the NSX

To decreased drag force, special surface coating as used in the Honda NSX is applied to the cylinder head ports (intake / exhaust).

For racing engine, technician will mirror polish the cylinder head ports like Honda done for the previous Civic type R B16B engine to increase intake efficiency using traditional method. However, this new Civic type R engine uses a special resin coating on the mold of the ports when casting the cylinder head to make the surface smooth, this reduces roughness by 40%, increasing an approximate output of 2PS.

Piston and Connecting Rods

 

One of the keys to tuning a NA engine is the piston. In order to increase the compression ratio, aluminum, pent-roof-type pistons were used. The piston skirt was made lighter in order to lessen the inertial mass. Since lightening the piston causes the piston “neck” to rock back and forth, a molybdenum coating (also used in the NSX) was applied to lessen friction.

In order to increase compression ratio, the head of the pistons were increased, about 2mm, from 11.5:1 (PRC) to 11.7:1 (RRC), The picture above shows you the piston differences between JDM Intergra DC5 Type R K20A (PRC) – left and JDM Civic FD2 Type R (RRC) – right.

Compressing the fuel and air will make them burn faster, more cleanly and much more efficiently than lower-compression engines, since power is a torque × rotational speed, power is increased as a result. Considering all the advantages of high compression, one might wonder why anyone would not use a high compression ratio. The answer is simple: The increased heat density of the compressed gas will cause the fuel to begin combustion without ignition by the spark plug, resulting in an undesirable burn pattern. This detonation, or “knock”, is often heard as a pinging noise and can cause severe damage to your engine. In other words, the high compression ratio = fight against knocking. How Honda handle this issue? The answer is, the Civic TYPE R, as well as takes advantage of the superior cooling performance of K20A engine and the special Honda combustion chamber shape and flow of the air-fuel mixture design.

Furthermore, connecting the crankshaft and pistons in order to achieve a high rotation and high output,
Honda used lightweight, high-strength connecting rod. Just like the GSR/ITR rod bearing, the K-series rod bearings also feature the friction reducing coating that consists of molybdenum adopt by Honda racing engines technology to reduce friction loss at the high speed.

Crankshaft

The crank is Honda’s typical overbuilt forged unit, to ensure the high rigidity, even at high rotation, Honda used high strength material to maintain excellent accuracy rotational, vibration is reduced suppress power loss, durability is improved.

Additional balancing weights were added on number 1 and 4, and allows for smooth, high-rpm revving — making it a 8-weight, fully-balanced crankshaft.

Block

K20 block height : 212 mm, made of aluminum alloy, it’s a beefy unit, heavily ribbed and gusseted for extra strength.

Good feature of high-performance engine also depends on the quality of the cylinder block. Many things that need to be consider, such as the shape of the crank case, suitable for high output, lightweight, rigidity, operate smoothly when high load, etc.

The Honda Civic TYPE R has been developed over many years poured thoroughly high rotation and high-output technology, the four-cylinder engine of Honda have been equipped with an engine block which can be called the ultimate. The center of the crank shaft axis is divided into upper and lower engine block.  Instead of opening the entire wall surface of the block, the crankshaft hole with a considerable thickness, gave the best reinforcement by dividing the vertical half and it’s to enhance the rigidity of the engine block.

The lower block was molded as a unit an outer wall of the block and the bearing portion of the crankshaft, especially a ladder frame structure, to have high rigidity. With these, as well as improve the rigidity of the engine block itself, it’s also enhanced coupling rigidity of the transmission, and improves the rigidity in the entire powertrain. This design also to reduce the loss of power, and has secured excellent durability.

Valves and the Valve Springs

JDM DC5 and FD2R share the same valves and the valve springs, that precisely and strong enough to withstand with 9000rpm!

Type R intake dual valve springs (both intake and exhaust side) are specially made to work with Type R lightened intake valves for higher lift and rpm specifications and to prevent valve float and maintain valvetrain stability at high RPM.

Intake Manifold

Air sucked from the throttle, then intake manifold will distribute air to each plenums. It is an important part that influences the intake efficiency of the engine, it is no exaggeration to say how the design of this part is telling the characteristics of the engine.

That of the Civic TYPE R, the short type of single pipe equal length and straight up the shape. This is demonstrated intake efficiency with excellent high rpm clearly, the thing that has been designed to “go around” well to the engine. To give better breathing when needed at the high rotation, at the moment when the intake valve is opened, the maximum use of the air speed increased by inertial force could be achieve, it’s pushing into the air cylinder vigorously.

The ideas of flow capacity, flow velocity and flow quality was developed in experience and continued challenge to race for many years, turn on the know-how of high speed engine development, increasing the intake efficiency. It can be the intake manifold far focused on high rotation by VTEC, because is switched at 5,800 rpm.

While generated by the high speed of 8,000 rpm the same as the Integra DC5 TYPE R, the highest output of Integra DC5 TYPE R maximum torque is 206N · m [21.0kgf · m] / 7,000 rpm, when Civic FD2R is 215N · m [21.9kgf · m] / 6,100 rpm, that mean, the intake manifold generate high torque at the low rpm, by improving quality control.

The comparison with aftermarket intake manifold, using dyno test,  K-Series Intake Manifold Shootout – Kapow! .

Exhaust system

Back pressure caused by the exhaust system (consisting of the exhaust manifold, catalytic converter, muffler and connecting pipes) of an automotive four-stroke engine has a negative effect on engine efficiency resulting in a decrease of power output that must be compensated by increasing fuel consumption.

In order to reduce the back pressure, the exhaust manifold has be design to narrow-angled shape (compare with DC5), full-length and straightened dual exhaust pipe,  

And using valve-operated variable length silencer (compare with DC5), to control back pressure and sound from the low to high RPM.

Transmission

The transmission gearbox takes the output from the engine flywheel, multiplying it with the selected gear ration before delivering to the front driving wheels for maximum lap times on the circuit. For sharper acceleration, gears 1 to 3 are revised with the approximately 3% overall shorter (higher) ratio. To exploit the higher power and torque of the new K20A engine, gears 4,5, and 6 are revised for an approximately 1% taller (smaller) ratio.

Due to the aggressive cam profiles, the power delivery of the new Civic TYPE-R’s K20A spec R engine has a dip, a ‘hole’, in the middle of its power chart around the 3000 to 4000RPM range. The individual gear ratios for gears 1 to 5 are chosen so that shift-ups from red-lines to the next higher gear will drop the engine RPM right into the power band – after the ‘hole’ and where power and torque are increasing.

The gearbox also receives new synchros. For gears 1 and 2, triple cone synchros are used. Third gear uses dual carbon cones. Fourth gear uses dual cones. And finally fifth and sixth gears use single carbon cones. An advanced high rigidity aluminum casing is used for the transmission. For improved lubrication at high RPM, the new casing features resin baffle plates, to avoid oil starvation at high cornering speeds. Finally, a short stroke shift linkage contributes to a sporty shifting feel. Source: http://asia.vtec.net

To greatly reduce the mass inertia of the crank system, Civic TYPE R adopt ultra-light as used in the racing engine “forging Flywheel”.

The Body/ Chassis

A stiffer and lightweight body compliments the powerful engine of the Civic Type R. Better stability is achieved with an extensive use of high tensile steel sheets that create a stronger structure. This makes it 50% more rigid and 11.6kg lighter than the Integra Type R.

 Light-weight conversion

A. Front bumper beam converted to aluminum
B. Dashboard insulator excluded
C. Floor melt set excluded
D. Middle floor under cover excluded
E. Rear glass sheet converted to thinner sheet glass
F. Front license bumper base unified

*Weight reduced: 13.4kg, total vehicle weight without air-conditioning: 1250kg

 Rigidity enhancements

1. Front bulkhead adhesive added
2. Upper cross main bar board thickness increased
3. Sub frame adapter unit board thickness increased
4. Rear floor stiffener and welding point added
5. Rear floor adhesive added
6. Rear stabilizer adapter unit board thickness increased

*Weight increased: 1.8kg

 The End

The FD2 Civic Type R ceased production in August 2010 because of failing to meet upcoming emission requirement. Following the previous success of introducing the FN2 Civic Type R from Europe in 2009, another batch of FN2 Type R with minor update is available in fall 2010. The FN2 Type R has 197 hp (147 kW) vs the 225 hp (168 kW) output in the FD2 Type R. Source : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Civic_Type_R#Premier_Special_Edition.  Sad ending…

 

DIY : Honda Civic/Integra Distributor Oil Seal and O-Ring Replacement

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I think, I frequently write but leaking oil, yeah, this is another story…

Once upon a time, the old O-Ring become very old until he didn’t care about what goes around anymore…

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Some oily below the distributor? Sometime, this old O-Ring playing tricks on you, until you thought, your head is leaking! (I mean, your engine head). There will be oil around the corner, where the block mate with the head, this is good replacement after you replacing the camshaft plug and VTEC solenoid gasket.

This procedure is specifically for Honda Tec distributor, other brand may have same or different procedure. So, the first step is to remove the 2-P connector from the distributor.

I didn’t remove the spark plug cables for easy installation. Remove three distributor cap bolts.

Marking the related position between distributor and cylinder head, to make sure the ignition timing didn’t out of spec during installation.

Then, remove the distributor mounting bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head. As you could see the picture below, where is the leaking point and O-Ring that responsible for this problem location (external leak). If you just want to change this O-Ring only, ignore the entire procedure below, just make sure everything is clean and install the new O-Ring.

The consequence.

To prevent 180° out of time when install back the distributor end, mark the center shaft and distributor end. Note : The lugs on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft are both offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180° out of time.

Turn circlip remove point to the pin hole, flat screw driver is good enough to remove this circlip.

Turn the distributor ignition rotor until you see the screw that hold the rotor, remove the ignition rotor and leak cover.

Remove three screws (cream color circle) that hold the ignition control module (ICM), TDC/CKP/CYP sensors and two screws (black color circle) that hold the ignition coil.

Remove the wires grommet.

Optional : Remove the two last TDC/CKP/CYP sensors for more work space. TheTDC/CKP/CYP sensors have a small bump on the bottom that fits into corresponding holes in the distributor case so that the sensors will only fit in one place and can’t be adjusted.

My oil seal seem ok, there’s no major leak, but, it’s a good practice to change it since it run over 100k.

This is what the entire system look like.

Pull out the oil seal using the flat screw driver, it should be easy.

Cleaning time! I clean using silicone spray. Before:

After:

There are 2 type OEM Honda distributor O-Ring common type. The dealer tell me that OEM Honda distributor O-Ring make from viton material, that why the price is high that normal rubber type (about 4 times!).

Comparison.

Install the new oil seal, make sure the seal seat properly, I using 14mm socket to slowly push it down.

Install back all together reverse of removal, install the new O-Ring, and don’t forget the marking points that I mentioned before or your engine won’t start.

Install the distributor on the cylinder head,  don’t forget the ignition timing marking point! That all, wait for the next chapter of the leaking oil story (I hope not!).

How to Repair Snap/broken Bolt/Stud Using Hand Tapping

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This is nightmare for some people, including me, do you recognize this special stud? The 10mm bolt/stud is easily over-torque.

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Grinding the surface.

For 10mm bolt, using the M6x1.0 (M6 mean the major (nominal) diameter of the thread and 1.0 is the pitch of the thread) tap and 5mm (the major (nominal) diameter of the thread – is the pitch of the thread = 5). From left, drill, taper tap, plug tap and bottom tap.

You also need the tap wrench. There are two main types of tap wrenches: double-end adjustable wrenches and T-handle wrenches. Double-end adjustable wrenches, also known as bar wrenches, have one threaded handle which is attached to one of the clamps. The clamp is opened to insert the tool and then tightened down against the tool to secure it. This type of tap wrench is used with larger taps and where there is room for a larger wrench, because a T-handle is more compact.

Before drilling, punch the stud center to keeps the drill bit from wandering around when you start drilling.

Make sure the hole is 90° and deep enough.

Tips before and during tapping :

1. Make sure the cutting teeth is always stand straight 90° around (left, right, front, back).

2. Use lubricant, example : Tapping fluid, WD-40, engine or machine oil or even your blood (just kidding) to reduce friction binding and aid in chip removal.

3. Take the time, taps are brittle (make from HSS – High Speed Steel) go slow, or you will need another tool, broken tap removal!

4. After 1 – 3 thread(s) (you will feel a little bit tight), move the tap counterclockwise and anticlockwise to remove the chips of loose material.

5. Be patient.

For starting, use the tapper tap, make several threads (usually the first 3-5 threads), then use the plug tap for further threads, and bottom tap for finishing.

Result.

Bolt in tightly and cut the bold head.

Look like an original right?

And after several day, my friend found this at the junkyard. My super friend!