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Defi’s Water/Oil Temperature and Oil Pressure Gauges Installation and review.

Posted in My Automotive Life | 2 Comments »

Why do we need an additional gauges? For me, is for the accuracy reading and additional important information, and get the bonus, the racing looks! I do believe in the precision technology that Defi offer,  installation is very straight forward, you could download the manual from their website.

Need the separate sensor adapter/attachment , Juran Racing provide the precise, lightweight and coolest sensor attachment.

 Take this chance to change the engine oil, just check out the magnetic oil sump bolt, have a few metal debris, hmm, a good buy.

 Remove the oil filter.

 For more protection, I wrap the sensor cable with the flexible tubing.

 Perfectly fit.

 Cut the upper radiator hose, make sure not to spill the coolant everywhere (bad for environment and animal, also, you could reused the coolant).

The correct angle to install the water temperature sensor is at the bottom side of an upper hose. If a hose does not have mush coolant at the inside, a sensor on the top of the hose would not be exposed to the coolant.

The result.

Night view.

Comparison with the stock temperature meter, irony, the stock also come from the same manufacture, Nippon Seiki Co.,Ltd (NS) . The black line is pointer for 90 °c (stock meter didn’t have any indicator pointer or number, I wonder why…)

At 21 °c.

38 °c.

46 °c.

60 °c.

Oil temperature : 60 °c.

72 °c.

80 °c.

98 °c (Radiator fan on).

Oil temperature : 100 °c.

100 °c.

Conclusion :  The stock meter really not accurate (in my case), are they put some resistor between  reading 60 – 100 °c? The stock dial didn’t move at all between that range. The late warning for high temperature will be very dangerous.

Why choose JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) Engine?

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Picture : Take from my friend half-cut workshop.

I, personally, love the Japanese racing scene, the regulation, the modification, the philosophy, the tuner, the quality, the JDM racing style!  That not the new issue in here, Malaysia, and many racing scene here is influence by JDM style and growing significantly since the 1980s and I love the 90’s era when the car manufacture build the engine without thinking about complicated emission regulation, green technology, hybrid thing, bla bla, all in the mind is, pure performance and racing technology. That why I love my 90’s Civic.  But if I got the enough cash, of course I will upgrade to more powerful machine like Honda Civic FD2R !

Some of the JDM stuff is not available in open wide, the technology, the specification, and more importantly, the power, is sometimes reduced because of the stricter emission standards and regulations in other countries. I think this is the other reason why JDM Type R is never going outside!

The very strict Shaken  and the Japanese culture itself that do not like to get involved in the mechanical repairs make their car in good condition. The very high price for maintenance and to follow the strict regulation to make the car legal for Japanese roads sometime will make the value of the the car down to zero, even the car is still in good condition (definition from our side), so, recycling is more valuable, that the reason, their engine have a low mileage compare the to other countries. That’s why JDM engine and parts is popular among swapping enthusiasts.

DIY : Honda Civic 1987-2000 Front Brake Calipers/Pistons Maintenance/rebuild

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Well…safety is always the first, this is the part and mechanism that make sure your life is under safety term when you drive your machine, but you also need to make sure this mechanism is safety to use, especially when the mileages is beyond 100 000km, inspection is crucial…

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Remove the banjo bolt and disconnect the brake hose from caliper, don’t worry about brake fluid, after sometime brake fluid will stop flowing. It’s a good idea to have something to catch the excess brake fluid that will drain from the lines. For example, half of empty mineral bottle.

Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the caliper bracket bolts (if you want to service and paint your caliper bracket).


Apply compressed air to the caliper fluid inlet to get the piston out, be-careful, make sure your fingers in safety place. For cushioning, place wooden piece or rag in front of piston.


Result : Need to replace the piston, piston seal and piston boot.

Comparison between old and new piston, piston seal and piston boot.

Clean the cylinder groove and all parts as clean as you can!

Painting time!

Install the new piston seal.

This is the tricky part, to install piston with the piston boot in the cylinder. Firstly, install the boot onto the piston with the correct position.

Next, hmm, the picture will tell you more…

Slightly and slowly insert the outer boot lip in the cylinder groove, corner by corner using fingers and a small flat-head screwdriver (be-careful, you may tear the boot) .

Yeah, passion is need here…


Make sure the boot in the right place.

Reassembly all back together using reverse step, re-grease the caliper pin and install the new brake pads.

Hmm, satisfy enough…

Make the bleeding proces. Now, it’s time to rolling again!

DIY : 92-95 Honda Civic Fuel Filter Replacement

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Someone maybe wonder, “fuel filter? I never thought that thing ever exist in my car!”, yes, that thing is not famous as oil filter or air filter, but equivalent important too,  year after year, there can be a fair amount of rust and debris in the fuel tank, some come from the time when you adding fuel, and fuel filter will plugged and the fuel pressure will drop as well, and that’s not sound good right? The filter should be replaced every 2 years or 40 000 km, whichever come first, and it’s a just cheap and simple preventative maintenance.

Disconnected the negative cable from the battery negative terminal.

Put rag or shop towel under and around the fuel filter, hold the banjo bolt with 17mm wrench and remove the service bolt with 12mm wrench, this procedure is to relive fuel pressure.

Remove the banjo bolt and fuel feed pipe from the filter. Remove the fuel filter clamp by removing the clamping bolt (blue circle – refer above picture).

Come from the old filter, this is the reason why…

New fuel filter, come with the washer, install everything back in the reverse order of removal, and done.

DIY : 92-95 Honda Civic Nippondenso Alternator Whining & Carbon Brush & Bearing Replacement

Posted in My Automotive Life | 6 Comments »

When I turn on all heavy load, I mean amp load (air-conditioner, headlights (HI), fog lights, audio system, etc.) the alternator will start make whining noise like my blander machine. Inspection & suspecting;

1. I measure the battery voltage (engine at the normal operating temperature), seem normal, between 13.9 – 15.1 Voltage, depend on the load as long as it doesn’t exceed and below the range (to improve fuel economy, the alternator control system within the PGM-FI ECU changes the voltage generated at the alternator in accordance with the driving conditions). That mean my battery is under charge and voltage regulator is functioning.

2. I didn’t suspect the bearing, worn bearing will whining all the time.

3. Check the belt condition and belt deflection (5-7mm), seem OK.

4. Luckily, I have the spare alternator, take from the car graveyard, make the replacement, no more whining anymore! So, that’s mean, my alternator almost at the dead end, the whining come from electrical noise, the replacement is essential.

This is the step for alternator replacement, disconnect the cable from the battery negative (-) terminal and disconnect the alternator connector from the alternator. Remove the terminal nut and the white wire from the B terminal.

Also, don’t forget to dis-clip the white cable that attach to the alternator body.

Alternative – Make more work space by dis-clip the wire connectors. You will see clearly the adjusting nut.

Remove the adjusting nut and then remove adjusting bolt.

Jack stand the car, remove the left tire and under the alternator, there is alternator through bolt, remove it.

Loosen the belt by moving the alternator and then, remove it. Then carefully take out the alternator.

If you just want to make the new alternator replacement, just install everything back in the reverse order of removal, make sure everything in their place, and make the belting adjustment by adjusting the alternator adjusting bolt. But in my case, I need to refreshing my used alternator by cleaning, replace the bearing and the carbon brush.

At the alternator end cover, remove everything in the blue circle (This is how I use to short my text)

And again. Then remove the voltage regulator, diode and brush holder.


Inspect the slip rings, not in the bad condition…

Remove the pulley locknut (it is easy if you have an impact wrench/gun) and remove the pulley.

Loosen the rear housing (I used flat screw driver) from drive end housing.

Knock a little bit to loosen the housing.

Tap down the rotor shaft at the solid surface to split the housing, be careful, not too much. I don’t know what to call this method, but it’s work!

Remove the rotor by using the bearing puller.

Polishing the slip rings using small grits sand paper.

Check the continuity between the slip rings and no continuity between slip rings and the rotor or rotor shaft.

New set of carbon brush, make by TRIS Inc. , carbon brushes specialist company from Japan.

The old one still could be use, as long as you could see the company logo , but it is a good practice to replace alternator carbon brush that run over than 200 000 km.

Alternator brushes length : Standard : 10.5mm, service limit : 5.5mm.

Soldering set.


Alternator brushes length : Standard : 10.5mm


Remove the bearing retainer.

This is how I remove the front bearing, using suitable socket, and hammer it out.

Comparison with the old and the new bearing (KOYO 437 vs NSK 817-101DG8B).

The better procedure to install the bearing is using the press machine.

Install back the bearing retainer.

Comparison with the old and the new bearing (NSK 399 vs NSK 6202DW).

Use the same method from the previous one to remove the old bearing, be careful with the spacer ring.

In my case I am using 27 deep length socket size.

The better procedure to install the bearing is using the press machine.

Insert back the rotor into the big and small bearing housing using hand force.

Using back 27 deep length socket size to cover the slip rings.

Hammer down the rotor shaft until the two halves close together and tighten the four nuts to fasten the casing together.

Install everything back in the reverse order of removal, make sure everything in their place, easy right?

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