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Honda Air-conditioner Blower Motor Run One Speed Only (Maximum Speed)

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In my case, blower motor run  if  I select the maximum speed only from the climate control,  the maximum speed drive by relay (bypass), and the others speed controlled by either transistor (many variable speed)  or coils system (control 4 speed only),  that’s mean, the motor didn’t get the voltage supply from transistor/coils, the main suspect is either transistor/coils or before transistor/coils, my blower motor drive by transistor (mostly modern car use transistor to control the motor speed), enough for the theory, time to troubleshoot!

So, where is the location of transistor? Need to remove the glove box first (very easy task), here the suspect…unplug the socket, then remove two screw (green circle). This is of course you could get the new one, the whole set, but there a pricey…or maybe not available at the local shop, that why the term of DIY is exist.

Remove three screw at the front,

and others two at the back.

The last one inside the case (green circle). To remove thermo fuse, desoldering the blue circle terminal, to remove transistor, desoldering the red circle terminals. Wait! Don’t desoldering it yet, until we know the cause.

This is the main component of  blower motor transistor package, three of them, capacitor, thermo fuse and transistor. First to test is thermo fuse, firstly, detach one of the terminal from circuit (I prefer from the screw side). Check the continuity using multimeter or other method. In my case, there is no continuity, so that mean, this is one of the cause and the more important is, cheap replacement .  The complicated thing is to test the transistor.

To test the transistor, first we need the datasheet, this is the model of original transistor, brand : Toshiba, ID : 2SD1460, type : silicon NPN triple diffused type. And need to know a simple operation of transistor (you can ask uncle google). Make sure to identify the base (B), emitter (E) and collector (C) point.

A simple switching circuit to test an NPN transistor. If the transistor is OK the LED should light when the switch is pressed and not light when the switch is released. Source & details :

This is a simple test I make using DC motor as output.

The old vs the new. Used equivalent transistor and thermo fuse.

Put some thermal compound to terminate air gap between transistor and heat sink, for more effective heat transfer.

Put everything back together.

At last, I shoot the trouble…

DIY : Honda Civic/Integra B-Series Thermostat Replacement & IACV/Throttle Body Coolant Bypass

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I didn’t have any problem with my thermostat, just do the preventive maintenance, it is something very important that you need to prevent, overheating.  The thermostat is the very important cooling system component,  the main function is to maintain the engine operating temperature, not too cool and not too hot, just simply perfect temperature, like the adjustable hot-cold shower knob, in the cold morning, it will rise the minimum opening temperature quickly (to prevent poor gas mileage, fouled O² sensors, clogged exhaust systems and losing power),  to know how it works, watch the video below.

And this is how cooling system works.

And I have no idea why people cut off the thermostat and bypass the radiator fan (mean the coolant always circulate and the fan will always on) for street car, even for the racing car this modified is only a little bit few.

First, make sure the engine is cold…remove the intake and some wiring to get more access and space.

Prepare some reservoir container under the thermostat housing to make sure the coolant do not spill everywhere (bad for environment and animal), another option is to drain the coolant a little from radiator tank.  Two bolts that need to remove, this one and…

this one.

Take out the thermostat housing, bend the hose to prevent coolant spill, will lose some coolant for sure.


Clean the thermostat housing, then install the new one, don’t worry, there are the mechanism that prevent you from misplace.

I also take this chance to replace the old tired-rubber-hose-that-cannot-withstand-with-the-pressure-anymore with the silicon one, how do I know? Here the picture at the cold temperature.

and here the picture after certain boiling point, scare right? Poom!

Comparison. Silicon vs. stock.

And also the others hose…(please ignore the missing throttle body), and if you look more closer, you will notice that I also do some bypass, the hose that go through throttle body, to cool the intake manifold a little bit. Even wonder why the manufacture design this way? The only reason that I could think is to warm up the throttle body during the winter or very very cold climate to prevent the throttle body butterfly from stuck, but there is not the problem in my country (Malaysia) with benefits from a tropical climate with high temperatures and high humidity throughout the year. And you from the winter sonata country, I didn’t recommend this mod. And for  IACV line, I didn’t really get why…someone? I think for ‘idle’ reason…but, so far, I didn’t have any problem with my idle.

Install everything back in the reverse order of removal. Open the radiator cap and pour coolant into the radiator up to the base of the filler neck, squeeze the radiator hose a little to let the bubbles come out of the top of the radiator.

To remove the bubbles, loosen the bleed bolt (locate under distributor for B-series, but, didn’t  have for type-r series), tighten it again when coolant comes out in a steady stream with no bubbles.

Refill the radiator to the base of the filler neck. Put the cap on the radiator and tighten it only to the first stop (to give a little pressure for fast warm up, or the other method is to rise up the rpm). start the engine and let it run until it warms up (the radiator cooling fan comes on at least twice), that mean, the coolant begins to circulate.

Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator, add coolant if needed, install the radiator cap and tighten it fully.

Fill the reservoir to the MAX mark and keep checking the coolant levels.

The perfect cooler your car, the more cooler you are 

Defi’s Water/Oil Temperature and Oil Pressure Gauges Installation and review.

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Why do we need an additional gauges? For me, is for the accuracy reading and additional important information, and get the bonus, the racing looks! I do believe in the precision technology that Defi offer,  installation is very straight forward, you could download the manual from their website.

Need the separate sensor adapter/attachment , Juran Racing provide the precise, lightweight and coolest sensor attachment.

 Take this chance to change the engine oil, just check out the magnetic oil sump bolt, have a few metal debris, hmm, a good buy.

 Remove the oil filter.

 For more protection, I wrap the sensor cable with the flexible tubing.

 Perfectly fit.

 Cut the upper radiator hose, make sure not to spill the coolant everywhere (bad for environment and animal, also, you could reused the coolant).

The correct angle to install the water temperature sensor is at the bottom side of an upper hose. If a hose does not have mush coolant at the inside, a sensor on the top of the hose would not be exposed to the coolant.

Then, do the coolant bleeding process, refer to my other page.

The result.

Night view.

Comparison with the stock temperature meter, irony, the stock also come from the same manufacture, Nippon Seiki Co.,Ltd (NS) . The black line is pointer for 90 °c (stock meter didn’t have any indicator pointer or number, I wonder why…)

At 21 °c.

38 °c.

46 °c.

60 °c.

Oil temperature : 60 °c.

72 °c.

80 °c.

98 °c (Radiator fan on).

Oil temperature : 100 °c.

100 °c.

Conclusion :  The stock meter really not accurate (in my case), are they put some resistor between  reading 60 – 100 °c? The stock dial didn’t move at all between that range. The late warning for high temperature will be very dangerous.

Why choose JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) Engine?

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Picture : Take from my friend half-cut workshop.

I, personally, love the Japanese racing scene, the regulation, the modification, the philosophy, the tuner, the quality, the JDM racing style!  That not the new issue in here, Malaysia, and many racing scene here is influence by JDM style and growing significantly since the 1980s and I love the 90’s era when the car manufacture build the engine without thinking about complicated emission regulation, green technology, hybrid thing, bla bla, all in the mind is, pure performance and racing technology. That why I love my 90’s Civic.  But if I got the enough cash, of course I will upgrade to more powerful machine like Honda Civic FD2R !

Some of the JDM stuff is not available in open wide, the technology, the specification, and more importantly, the power, is sometimes reduced because of the stricter emission standards and regulations in other countries. I think this is the other reason why JDM Type R is never going outside!

The very strict Shaken  and the Japanese culture itself that do not like to get involved in the mechanical repairs make their car in good condition. The very high price for maintenance and to follow the strict regulation to make the car legal for Japanese roads sometime will make the value of the the car down to zero, even the car is still in good condition (definition from our side), so, recycling is more valuable, that the reason, their engine have a low mileage compare the to other countries. That’s why JDM engine and parts is popular among swapping enthusiasts.

DIY : Honda Civic 1987-2000 Front Brake Calipers/Pistons Maintenance/rebuild

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Well…safety is always the first, this is the part and mechanism that make sure your life is under safety term when you drive your machine, but you also need to make sure this mechanism is safety to use, especially when the mileages is beyond 100 000km, inspection is crucial…

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Remove the banjo bolt and disconnect the brake hose from caliper, don’t worry about brake fluid, after sometime brake fluid will stop flowing. It’s a good idea to have something to catch the excess brake fluid that will drain from the lines. For example, half of empty mineral bottle.

Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the caliper bracket bolts (if you want to service and paint your caliper bracket).


Apply compressed air to the caliper fluid inlet to get the piston out, be-careful, make sure your fingers in safety place. For cushioning, place wooden piece or rag in front of piston.


Result : Need to replace the piston, piston seal and piston boot.

Comparison between old and new piston, piston seal and piston boot.

Clean the cylinder groove and all parts as clean as you can!

Painting time!

Install the new piston seal.

This is the tricky part, to install piston with the piston boot in the cylinder. Firstly, install the boot onto the piston with the correct position.

Next, hmm, the picture will tell you more…

Slightly and slowly insert the outer boot lip in the cylinder groove, corner by corner using fingers and a small flat-head screwdriver (be-careful, you may tear the boot) .

Yeah, passion is need here…


Make sure the boot in the right place.

Reassembly all back together using reverse step, re-grease the caliper pin and install the new brake pads.

Hmm, satisfy enough…

Make the bleeding proces. Now, it’s time to rolling again!