Official Raz Veinz Blogsite

I think, I frequently write but leaking oil, yeah, this is another story…

Once upon a time, the old O-Ring become very old until he didn’t care about what goes around anymore…

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Some oily below the distributor? Sometime, this old O-Ring playing tricks on you, until you thought, your head is leaking! (I mean, your engine head). There will be oil around the corner, where the block mate with the head, this is good replacement after you replacing the camshaft plug and VTEC solenoid gasket.

This procedure is specifically for Honda Tec distributor, other brand may have same or different procedure. So, the first step is to remove the 2-P connector from the distributor.

I didn’t remove the spark plug cables for easy installation. Remove three distributor cap bolts.

Marking the related position between distributor and cylinder head, to make sure the ignition timing didn’t out of spec during installation.

Then, remove the distributor mounting bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head. As you could see the picture below, where is the leaking point and O-Ring that responsible for this problem location (external leak). If you just want to change this O-Ring only, ignore the entire procedure below, just make sure everything is clean and install the new O-Ring.

The consequence.

To prevent 180° out of time when install back the distributor end, mark the center shaft and distributor end. Note : The lugs on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft are both offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180° out of time.

Turn circlip remove point to the pin hole, flat screw driver is good enough to remove this circlip.

Turn the distributor ignition rotor until you see the screw that hold the rotor, remove the ignition rotor and leak cover.

Remove three screws (cream color circle) that hold the ignition control module (ICM), TDC/CKP/CYP sensors and two screws (black color circle) that hold the ignition coil.

Remove the wires grommet.

Optional : Remove the two last TDC/CKP/CYP sensors for more work space. TheTDC/CKP/CYP sensors have a small bump on the bottom that fits into corresponding holes in the distributor case so that the sensors will only fit in one place and can’t be adjusted.

My oil seal seem ok, there’s no major leak, but, it’s a good practice to change it since it run over 100k.

This is what the entire system look like.

Pull out the oil seal using the flat screw driver, it should be easy.

Cleaning time! I clean using silicone spray. Before:

After:

There are 2 type OEM Honda distributor O-Ring common type. The dealer tell me that OEM Honda distributor O-Ring make from viton material, that why the price is high that normal rubber type (about 4 times!).

Comparison.

Install the new oil seal, make sure the seal seat properly, I using 14mm socket to slowly push it down.

Install back all together reverse of removal, install the new O-Ring, and don’t forget the marking points that I mentioned before or your engine won’t start.

Install the distributor on the cylinder head,  don’t forget the ignition timing marking point! That all, wait for the next chapter of the leaking oil story (I hope not!).

This is nightmare for some people, including me, do you recognize this special stud? The 10mm bolt/stud is easily over-torque.

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Grinding the surface.

For 10mm bolt, using the M6x1.0 (M6 mean the major (nominal) diameter of the thread and 1.0 is the pitch of the thread) tap and 5mm (the major (nominal) diameter of the thread – is the pitch of the thread = 5). From left, drill, taper tap, plug tap and bottom tap.

You also need the tap wrench. There are two main types of tap wrenches: double-end adjustable wrenches and T-handle wrenches. Double-end adjustable wrenches, also known as bar wrenches, have one threaded handle which is attached to one of the clamps. The clamp is opened to insert the tool and then tightened down against the tool to secure it. This type of tap wrench is used with larger taps and where there is room for a larger wrench, because a T-handle is more compact.

Before drilling, punch the stud center to keeps the drill bit from wandering around when you start drilling.

Make sure the hole is 90° and deep enough.

Tips before and during tapping :

1. Make sure the cutting teeth is always stand straight 90° around (left, right, front, back).

2. Use lubricant, example : Tapping fluid, WD-40, engine or machine oil or even your blood (just kidding) to reduce friction binding and aid in chip removal.

3. Take the time, taps are brittle (make from HSS – High Speed Steel) go slow, or you will need another tool, broken tap removal!

4. After 1 – 3 thread(s) (you will feel a little bit tight), move the tap counterclockwise and anticlockwise to remove the chips of loose material.

5. Be patient.

For starting, use the tapper tap, make several threads (usually the first 3-5 threads), then use the plug tap for further threads, and bottom tap for finishing.

Result.

Bolt in tightly and cut the bold head.

Look like an original right?

And after several day, my friend found this at the junkyard. My super friend!

Yea, I wrote about death, really death, the thing that everyone will experiences, at least, once…

Related to my previous post – The Sole Purpose of Our Existence

If we take from the human perspective, there is so many definition about death, human will always use their large gifted, imagination, knowledge and thought, and more dramatic is from scientific view, but the question is, which one is the truth?

I would like to take The Words from Death Creator, The Only God, Allah,

Sura 02 – Ayat 28
Al-Baqarah (The Cow)

﴿كَيْفَ تَكْفُرُونَ بِاللَّهِ وَكُنتُمْ أَمْوَتًا فَأَحْيَـكُمْ ثُمَّ يُمِيتُكُمْ ثُمَّ يُحْيِيكُمْ ثُمَّ إِلَيْهِ تُرْجَعُونَ ﴾

(How can you disbelieve in Allah seeing that you were dead and He gave you life Then He will give you death, then again will bring you to life (on the Day of Resurrection) and then unto Him you will return.)

Tafsir :

Allah testifies to the fact that He exists and that He is the Creator and the Sustainer Who has full authority over His servants,

﴿كَيْفَ تَكْفُرُونَ بِاللَّهِ﴾

(How can you disbelieve in Allah)

How can anyone deny Allah’s existence or worship others with Him while;

﴿وَكُنتُمْ أَمْوَتًا فَأَحْيَـكُمْ﴾

(You were dead and He gave you life) meaning, He brought them from the state of non-existence to life. Similarly, Allah said,

﴿أَمْ خُلِقُواْ مِنْ غَيْرِ شَىْءٍ أَمْ هُمُ الْخَـلِقُونَ – أَمْ خَلَقُواْ السَّمَـوَتِ وَالاٌّرْضَ بَل لاَّ يُوقِنُونَ ﴾

(Were they created by nothing Or were they themselves the creators Or did they create the heavens and the earth Nay, but they have no firm belief) (52:35-36) and,

﴿هَلْ أَتَى عَلَى الإِنسَـنِ حِينٌ مِّنَ الدَّهْرِ لَمْ يَكُن شَيْئاً مَّذْكُوراً ﴾

(Has there not been over man a period of time, when he was not a thing worth mentioning) (76:1).

There are many other Ayat on this subject. Ibn Jarir reported from `Ata’ that Ibn `Abbas said that,

﴿وَكُنتُمْ أَمْوَتًا فَأَحْيَـكُمْ﴾

(Seeing that you were dead and He gave you life) means, “You did not exist beforehand. You were nothing until Allah created you; He will bring death to you and then bring you back to life during Resurrection.” Ibn `Abbas then said, “This is similar to Allah’s statement;

﴿قَالُواْ رَبَّنَآ أَمَتَّنَا اثْنَتَيْنِ وَأَحْيَيْتَنَا اثْنَتَيْنِ﴾

(They will say: “Our Lord! You have made us to die twice and You have given us life twice.”) (40:11)”

Resources: Tafsir Ibn Kathir, The Tafsir of Surat Al-Baqarah

And death is actually are creature created by Allah, from hadith,

Rasul Allah (sal Allahu alaihi wa sallam) said: “On the Day of Resurrection death will be brought forward in the shape of a black and white ram. Then a call maker will call, ‘O people of Jannah!’ Thereupon they will stretch their necks and look carefully. The caller will say, ‘Do you know this?’ They will say, ‘Yes, this is death.’ By then all of them will have seen it. Then it will be announced again, ‘O people of Jahannum!’ They will stretch their necks and look carefully. The caller will say, ‘Do you know this?’ They will say, ‘Yes, this is death.’ And by then all of them will have seen it. Then it (that ram) will be slaughtered and the caller will say, ‘O people of Jannah! Eternity for you and no death. O people of Jahannum! Eternity for you and no death.’” Then the Prophet (sal Allahu alaihi wa sallam) recited: “And warn them of the Day of Distress when the case has been decided, while (now) they are in a state of carelessness (i.e. the people of the world) and they do not believe. (Quran 19:39)” [Sahih Bukhari]

So, this is time for ‘big buddy’, main rear trailing arm bushing, stress by stress, time by time, he need retirement…

Long time ago, Honda doesn’t supply trailing arm bushing separately, they sell entirely trailing arm set! When need to replace? Should check it after 50 000km, but it depend on how you handle your car, modification and the road condition. These bushings are responsible for rear stability, so make sure it always takes a good responsible!

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Some prefer to use Honda/Acura trailing arm bushing removal/extractor (refer the picture below), the benefits is, only need to remove several bolts and you can remove and replace the bushing with the trailing arm still in the car, save your time, the con is, this special tool is a little bit expensive and you need to wait for a long time to use this secret weapon again, except you are full-time car mechanic. And other extremely technique is, to used hammer! I witness this on YouTube. But I prefer to remove entirely trailing arm and take to the machine shop to press the bush.

This schematic take from service manual show where exactly the trailing arm doing the job, the biggest and most powerful arm! Show also the torque spec.

Honestly, this maintenance is very easy and straight forward job, our mission is to remove/deattach anything that connects/attach the trailing arm to the body, necessary only, take the first step, remove the caliper shield.

And next is to remove the parking brake cable, remove the lock pin, clevis pin and clip.

Next step is to remove the brake caliper, only two caliper bracket bolts (orange circle), that all.

Remove any bolt that attach brake hose at the trailing arm.

Remove the compensator arm, one side bolt only…I remove bolt that connect compensator arm to the body, yeah, this is sure will mess with the toe alignment, but it more easier to remove, because the are lot of work space for me. Just do the marking point.

Then, remove the upper arm self-locking bolt.

Remove the trailing arm bushing bolts.

Toing! Remove parking brake cable bolt that attaches to the trailing arm.

And lastly, remove the lower arm self-locking bolt. Easy and straight forward right? Like my texts.

Men shopping time! I recommend you to measure your original old bushing diameter, there are two type of diameter for OEM Honda,

The small diameter bushing is part number 52385-SR3-000. It’s outside diameter is 3.170 inches (80.52mm)

The large diameter bushing is part number 52385-SK7-N02. It’s outside diameter is 3.352 inches (85.14mm)

Goodbye old buddy, take a deep rest, please don’t show your sadness face to me.

The complete trailing arm set.

The oldest one is more thick than the new one, I wonder why Honda reduce it size. From physically and design, the old one look like more rigid and will not allow minor movement, the new one is more flexibility and maybe didn’t keep hard stress and more comfort riding, maybe less for duration and durability, who’s know? There is one another  important factor to consider, the material it self. So, time will speak…

But, there a are another option, aftermarket part! This text I copy from my previous post –> There are many topic people around the world discuss about bushing, but what take my attention is, which one material is better, OEM rubber or aftermarket polyurethane (PU)? For my opinion, each other have their own advantage and disadvantage, polyurethane will give extremely durable, maintain steering geometry, enhance handling & ride characteristic and many more than stock rubber, but it will cost you twice or tree! Two friend of mine change fully bushing to polyurethane and they say there is no problem, the only problem is price,  I also read about people experience with  PU, almost say, it’s too hard for daily driving or family car, and sometime make squeaking noise, and have to re-grease with special grease, there are many brand out there, my friend recommend me Superpro bushing, I also read people choose hard rubber than poly and OEM rubber, for me OEM rubber bush is always fine,  it depend on what your car for, mine is only for daily and street driving, so, I will stick with OEM rubber bush.<– End of copy

Also, you have to consider, about total motion that a suspension has to move through!

Before pressing, measure and remember the correct position (which side is above and below) of the old one. Some prefer to mark when the arm still in the car, on the wheels and sitting on the ground if you lowered the car, to prevent constant pre-load twist that could lead to early breakage because of the bush will twist a little degree from the standard setting, that the great point, but for me, I need to consider about my coilover, how much I lowered my car, road condition (bump and crack), the passengers, the motion of cornering and the bush design it self to handle all the motion, because it dynamically, so I will stick with the natural position.

This is the great chance if you want to replace the compensator arm.

After installing the new one.

Reassembly all back together using reverse step, install the compensator arm bolts close the the the original position (toe adjustment), but, I highly recommend you to do wheel alignment, because wear bush alignment of cause not to match the new one. This procedure also could be use to converted from drum brake to disk brake, just replace the hand brake cable.

After test drive : Improve hard braking, cornering and can handle bumping road better.

I snap this picture after I do alignment and run for 100km, while the car still on the wheels, sitting on the ground and no driver or passenger load, just want to check the position of my trailing arm bush.

The result, almost the same position when the trailing arm still hanging.

Shell, as technical partners of Ferrari, have teamed up with the LEGO Group to bring you six exclusive models. All are powered by revolutionary Micro-Propulsion engines. So get down to your nearest Shell Service Station and start building today. The race is on. – http://www.shell.com.my

Three big names that have historical chapter in my mind, Shell is one of my car favorite drink, Lego is the most favorite toy brand at my childhood and of course, Ferrari is a dreaming cars for almost all men in this planet including me. Big clap for Shell, they combine this all excitement into one, and give me the big reason to collect them all! You can’t blame me, even Fernando Alonso  playing with this toys. Yeah, you, adult out there, could use my reason to cover up your embarrassment.

This is the most limited edition, rarest and lovely collectables to have. Shell only produces this collection for four (4) country only, Malaysia, Hong Kong, Philippine and Singapore. The collection includes five (5) officially-licensed Ferraris, one (1) Iveco transport truck and one (1) Minifigures Set. For more information, click here.

Ferrari 150° Italia

There’s an option to build it as Fernando Alonso (#5 and blue helmet) or Felipe Massa (#6 and green helmet). The Ferrari 150° Italia, formerly known as the Ferrari F150, is a Formula One motor racing car built by Scuderia Ferrari Marlboro to compete in the 2011 Formula One season. The car’s chassis designation has been chosen to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Italy’s unification.

Ferrari 458 ITALIA

In Ferrari’s first official announcement of the car, the 458 Italia was described as the successor to the F430 but arising from an entirely new design, incorporating technologies developed from the company’s experience in Formula 1.

Pieces: 34

Ferrari 250 GT Berlinetta

Disc brakes were a first in a Ferrari GT, and the combination of low weight, high power, and well-sorted suspension made it a competitive offering. It was unveiled at the Paris Motor Show in October and quickly began selling and racing. The SWB Berlinetta claimed GT class of the Constructor’s Championship for Ferrari in 1961.

Pieces: 25

Scuderia Ferrari Truck

Is an Iveco Stralis tractor head which Ferrari will use for all its transportation needs at races and test sessions.

Pieces: 40

Ferrari FXX

The Ferrari FXX is a high performance race car and prototype. The FXX is based on the street-legal Enzo. Production of the FXX began in 2005. Customers pay $1.8 million, but are only allowed to drive the car on special track days which are approved by Ferrari. After they drive the car, the owners are entitled to be briefed by Ferrari on the car’s performance. Ferrari has built 30, adding one special edition to the 29 that were originally planned. The original 29 have all been sold to pre-selected past Ferrari customers. The 30th was retained by Ferrari S.p.A. and presented to Ferrari’s F1 World Champion driver, Michael Schumacher, when he retired from Formula One racing at the end of 2006. Schumacher’s FXX differs from others in being black without a stripe, having red trimmed wheels, matte rather than chrome exhaust tips, and his personal logo stitched on the racing seats.

Pieces: 56

Ferrari F40

The Ferrari Model F40 is a mid-engine, rear-wheel drive, two-door coupé sports car produced by Ferrari from 1987 to 1992 as the successor to the Ferrari 288 GTO. At the time it was the fastest, most powerful, and most expensive car that Ferrari sold to the public.

Pieces: 52

LEGO® Minifigures set

Comes with a Ferrari Race Mechanic, Ferrari Refueling Engineer,  a Shell Track Scientist, trolley, mobile refueling unit, fuel lab in the set. I customize 3 other figures using my childhood LEGO.

Play mini game here.

See? I’m just a normal adult.

Many people asked, what the Sole purpose of our existence? Why we was born into this world? Why do human beings exist? Then, The Mightiest Evidence, Quran, gave the answer…

Sura 51 – Ayat 56
Az-Zariyat (The Winds that Scatter)

وَمَا خَلَقْتُ الْجِنَّ وَالْإِنْسَ إِلَّا لِيَعْبُدُونِ

I created the jinn and humans for nothing else but that they may serve Me;

Tafsir : That is, I have not created them for the service of others but for My own service. They should serve Me, for I am their Creator. When no one else has created them, no one else has the right that they should serve him; and how can it be admissible for them that they should serve others instead of Me, their Creator? Here, the question arises that Allah Almighty is not the Creator only of the jinn and men but of the entire universe and of everything in it. Then, why has it been said only about the jinn and men that He has not created them for the service of others but of Himself? Whereas every single creature is there to serve Allah. The answer is: Only the jinn and men have been granted the freedom that they may serve Allah within their sphere of choice if they so like; otherwise they can turn away from Allah’s service as well as serve others beside Him. The rest of the creatures in the world do not have this kind of freedom. They do not have any choice whatsoever that they may not worship and serve Allah, or may serve any other. Therefore, only about the jinn and men it has been said here that by turning away from the obedience and servitude of their Creator within the bounds of their option and choice and by serving others than the Creator, they are fighting their own nature. They should know that they have not been created for the service of any other but the Creator, and for them the right way is that they should not abuse the freedom granted to them, but also within the bounds of this freedom they should serve God voluntarily just as every particle of their body is serving Him involuntarily in the sphere where they have not been granted any freedom.

The word ibadat (service, worship) in this verse has not been used in the sense of only Prayer, Fasting and other kinds of such worship so that one may understand that the jinn and men have been created only for performing the Prayer, observing the Fast and for praising and glorifying Allah. Although this sense also is included in it, this is not its complete sense. Its complete sense is that the jinn and men have not been created for the worship, obedience and carrying out of the orders of any other but Allah. They are not there to bow to any other, to carry out the orders of any other, to live in fear of any other, to follow the religion enjoined by any other, to look upon any other as the maker and destroyer of ones destiny, and to supplicate to any other than Allah for help. (For further explanation, see (E.N. 63 of Surah Saba); (E.N. 2 of Surah Az-Zumar); (E.N. 30 of Surah Al-Jathiyah).

Another thing that incidentally becomes quite obvious from this verse is that the jinn are a separate and independent creation from men. This brings out the error of the thinking of those people, who assert that some people from among mankind have been called the jinn in the Quran. This same thing is also confirmed and testified by the following verses of the Quran: (Surah Al-Anaam, Ayats 100, 128); (Surah Al-Aaraf, Ayats 38, 179); (Surah Houd, Ayat 119); (Surah Al-Hijr, Ayats 27 to 33); (Surah Bani Israil, Ayat 88); (Surah Al-Kahf, Ayat 50); (Surah As-Sajdah, Ayat 13); (Surah Saba, Ayat 41); (Surah Suad, Ayats 75, 76); (Surah HaMim As-Sajdah, Ayat 25); (Surah Al-Ahqaf, Ayat 18); (Surah ArRahman, Ayats 15, 39, 56). (For a complete discussion of this question, see (E. N. 21 of Surah Al-Anbiya), (E.Ns 23, 45 of Surah An-Naml), (E.N. 24 of Surah Saba).

Resources: Tafsir Ibn Kathir, The Tafsir of Surat Az-Zariyat

The external  link credit to : http://www.islamicstudies.info

Let’s leave your mouse for a while…

Yes, also your keyboard….

Just relax…

Take a deep breath…

Slowly release…

Again…

Release together with your unwanted stress…

To think….

We stay have what we have now…

That maybe what we want for the future…

So, be thankful…

Now do back your precious work!

This is where all the main contents goes, either text, animation, images, sound or video, it’s simple to create the main body layout, but a little bit tricky, it should editable, flexible and attractive.

I assume you read my previous  entry

The coding and structure is similar to Header Section  just with a little bit modification, here the CCS code, under the  new title,

/******************************/
/*  MAIN BODY SECTION  */
/******************************/

.Main-body {
    width:664px;
    text-align: left;
    margin: auto;
}

.Contents {
    width:600px;
    top: 230px;
    text-align: justify;
    background-image: url(../Image/Paper.png);
    background-attachment: scroll;
    background-repeat: repeat;    
    font-family: Georgia, “Times New Roman”, Times, serif;
    font-size: 12px;
    line-height: 20px;
    padding: 30px 30px 30px 50px;
    margin: 0 auto auto -15px;
    z-index: 1;
}

Note :

At the margin, I put a -15px for margin-left to adjust the background image position.

background-attachment: – The background-attachment property sets whether a background image is fixed or scrolls with the rest of the page.

background-repeat: - refer to my last CSS entry for more details

padding: – The padding shorthand property sets all the padding properties in one declaration. This property can have from one to four values. Example,

End Note :

And this is the HTML code,

<!– (Main Body) –>

<div class=”Main-body”>
<div style=”position:absolute;”>
<!– TemplateBeginEditable name=”Contents” –>
  <p>In progress, coming soon..</p>
  <!– TemplateEndEditable –></div>
</div>

<!– (Main Body End) –>

To text in, I used MS Office or etc., and paste in the Contents (do not paste at the coding) it’s better.

I think, that’s all for the basic main body, see you in the next entry.

For better handling and stylish, this upgrade is the most, why I choose MOMO? because Honda choose them! MOMO steering wheel is the standard accessories for Honda NSX, Integra DC2/DC5 and Civic EK9 Type-R! The  steering wheel come with the thick leather anatomic grips design, that give you a firm grip and positive steering feel that you just can’t get from the stock wheel. A bit smaller diameter and aluminum material make it weigh half of my standard EG9 steering wheel! Better not to choose the smallest size, it will ruin the daily driving (except you want to feel like driving the go cart).

To install, is straight forward job, unless if you have an air bag, have a little bit tricky! Need suitable steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits), DC2 and 1992 – 1995 Honda Civic EG are interchangeable.

The standard one.

Remove the center pad and the steering wheel nut, no need a special tool,  enough with the socket and extension, the nut will be fairly tight. Remove the steering wheel by rocking it slightly from side-to-side as you pull steadily with both hands.

Install the steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits). Be sure the steering wheel shaft engages the turn signal canceling sleeve. Install back the steering wheel nut.

Install the horn button, connect the two wires to the horn button. It doesn’t matter which wire goes to which connector. If there no connector for the ground (body) just touch it at any place at the steering wheel adapter, put the tape or rewiring, etc., as long as it will stick there. Verify the horn operation. Make sure the steering wheel adapter arrow in the center position.

Insert the MOMO steering wheel and the adapter plate.

Secure it with the hex screw and everything is done. Easy right?

The silver spoke match with the dashboard.

Then take the car for a ride and verify that the turn signals shut off properly after making a turn and don’t forget to attack the corner!

What you’re aspect from the moving parts? Although the CV joints are EXTREMELY tough, but the rubber cover that protects the drive axle joint, it’s also known as the CV (constant velocity) boot, is not. The boots will tear (like mine) or crack over time, and the grease that the boots hold inside will leak out. The CV joint will then be exposed to dirt, moisture and other debris, so you can replace them before damage is done to the more expensive CV joint. Remember CV joints also are EXTREMELY expensive!

The boots will be the indicator for you to service the CV, time by time, heat by heat, the grease itself will degrade, now it’s time to inspect and refresh!

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Since this job requires quite a bit of disassembly, you may want to take advantage of the opportunity and change out your brake pads/rotors or do front suspension & sway bar maintenance (Bushing replacement)

Raise both front wheels off the ground and secure car with jack stands . Remove wheel.

Raise the locking tap on the spindle nut and remove it. I have 2 method to remove the high torque spindle nut:

1. The easier way, use the impact gun! Or machine gun! (Just Kidding), if you didn’t have any, just go nearby workshop, just loosen it, not to remove! Then hand tight it with the breaker bar, drive slowly to your home and remove it with the breaker bar.

2. Using fully of your superman power with the breaker bar and socket extension to remove! Make sure your wheel still on the car (with the the center cap remove if you have any) and your car on the ground and ask your friend or neighbor to push the brakes to lock the rotor from spinning.

Tadaa!

Remove damper fork bolt,

To remove the Honda LCA ball joint, I highly recommend you to using ball joint remover, that make your life easy, because Honda ball joint is superior tight, some people may prefer use hammer or ‘jack technique’ .

Pry the driveshaft assembly with a screwdriver as shown to force the set ring at the driveshaft end past the groove.

Pull the inboard joint and remove the driveshaft and CV joint from the differential case as an assembly.

- With Intermediate Shaft:

Remove the right driveshaft from the bearing support by tapping the inboard joint of the driveshaft with a plastic hammer.

CAUTION:

1. Do not pull on the driveshaft, as the CV joint may come apart.

2. Use care when prying out the assembly and pull it straight to avoid damaging the differential oil seal.

Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer.

This is the best time to check the differential oil seal for any wear.

This is the main part of the driveshaft, I only remove the driver side (right hand drive), the passenger side is quite similar, except its link with the intermediate shaft that link to the gearbox.

The leaking point at the outboard joint boot close up.

Cut out all the boots band (red dashed line).

Remove the inboard joint and roller.

Remove the circlip (using circlip remover or anything that suitable), according to the manual service, it’s a good practice to install everything back in their original positions, mark the spider and driveshaft then remove the spider using a commercially available bearing remover, but I am just using plastic hammer and its work. It’s hard to remove the stopper ring, the only reason I remove it, is easier for me to remove/install the dynamic damper and boots, you should consider before removing it. Then remove the inboard boot and dynamic damper from the driveshaft.

Inspect and clean everything, remove as much of the grease as possible, replace circlip or stopper ring if needed.

I don’t know why I put this picture, ha ha

Inspect and clean the inboard joint.

Remove the outboard joint boot.

Clean the outboard joint from grease. Inspect for faulty movement and wear, according to manual service, this part should not be disassemble.

Shopping time!

USE ONLY DRIVESHAFT GREASE

Clean up more.

Pack the outboard and inboard joint including inside the boots with the driveshaft/joint grease.

Recommended grease quantity, inboard joint –> 120-130 g (4.2-4.6 oz), outboard joint –> 90-100 g (3.2-3.5 oz).

Crimp the boot clamp tight, very very tight, be careful not to damage the boots  .  I carefully used a screw driver and pliers, but there is a special tool you can buy that is designed for these style clamps. Once again, very tight…

Reinstallation is the reverse of removal, DON’T FORGET to put the cotter-pin back, the picture show the cotter-pin correct position. Just remember to tighten the suspension to the final torque in the loaded position. To do this, install suspension bolts loose (not even wrench tight), rest the car on ramps, and then tighten the bolts to their final torque.

Another tear has been wiped!