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Archive for October, 2011

DIY : Honda Civic 1987-2000 Rear Brake/Suspension Maintenance

Posted in My Automotive Life | No Comments »

For an introduction, I would to say, this is not “how to do” page,  this is the way I do, I strongly recommend you to read the factory service manual in the first place.

Recently, my rear suspension (right side) makes some noise, especially when I take a hard corner, but it only happens sometime, people say, it is a good practice to cure the small plague before it comes bigger. And I also want to service my rear brake disc, cleaning, refinishing disc, change brake pad, re-paint and re-grease,  so, I take the 1st step,

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

1. Loosen the wheel nut slightly, then raise the car and support on safety stands (I used three stand, back, left, right). Put something in the front tire (front and back side) to make sure there is no movement. SAFETY FIRST.

I look around, So, there are some bushing problem, my absorber and upper arm bushing has been tear and shred, there are many topic people around the world discuss about bushing, but what take my attention is, which one material is better, OEM rubber or aftermarket polyurethane (PU)? For my opinion, each other have their own advantage and disadvantage, polyurethane will give extremely durable, maintain steering geometry, enhance handling & ride characteristic and many more than stock rubber, but it will cost you twice or tree! Two friend of mine change fully bushing to polyurethane and they say there is no problem, the only problem is price,  I also read about people experience with  PU, almost say, it’s too hard for daily driving or family car, and sometime make squeaking noise, and have to re-grease with special grease, there are many brand out there, my friend recommend me Superpro bushing, I also read people choose hard rubber than poly and OEM rubber, for me OEM rubber bush is always fine,  it depend on what your car for, mine is only for daily and street driving, so, I will stick with OEM rubber bush.

But for now, I want to service my brake system, my rear brake disc surface has a some groove and need to refinishing, after measurement, it still in standard 9.00mm (max refinishing limit : 8mm).

COUTION:
  • Do not spill brake fluid on car; it may damage the paint;  if  brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water.
  • To prevent spills, cover the hose joint with rags or shop towels.
  •  Clean all part in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air.

2. Remove the banjo bolt and disconnect the brake hose from caliper, don’t worry about brake fluid, after sometime brake fluid will stop flowing. It’s a good idea to have something to catch the excess brake fluid that will drain from the lines. For example, half of empty mineral bottle. And also remove the caliper shield as well.

3. Remove the two caliper mounting bolt (8mm flange bolt 23Nm (17lb-ft)) and the caliper body from the bracket. Remove the pad spring from the caliper body.

4.  Remove the lock pin and clevis pin. Remove the cable clip and disconnect the cable from the arm.

5. Check the piston by rotating the piston back in a little bit (it also in further to fitting new brake pads), it supposes to rotate smoothly, check also piston boot for crack or tear. It’s very easy to disassemble, but, will give you painful to make it piece back (trust me).

6. Remove the two caliper bracket bolt (10 x 1.5mm 39Nm (28lb-ft)).

7. The next process is to remove the disc. I try to remove the two Phillips head screws (6mm brake disc retaining screws 10Nm (7.2lb-ft)) that secure the rotor to the hub but it’s so tight (maybe because the rusty and never be open since born) and the disc will rotate for every attempt. So I decide to remove the whole set! Remove the hub cap, then raise the locking tab on the spindle nut (185Nm (134lb-ft) it should be replace after open it, but I don’t:-P) then, I remove the hub unit with the disc still stick with.

But, the problem is still the problem ‘THE STUBBORN SCREW’. I spray antirust, try to remove using the an impact screw driver and it’s work! Another option is to using ‘chiseling screws technique’.

8. Then, I refinishing the disc about ±0.2mm using Lathe machine. Then clean the hub and disc from the rust and paint using high temp paint.

9.  Disassemble the caliper body (except piston). Clean all parts. Wipe the grease off and put the new grease at the pin and boot pin. Seal the hole and painting time!

10. Bushing section : Replaced with the new upper arm and shock absorber lower bushing right and left.

11. Reassembly all back together using reverse step, to install new brake pads, rotate the caliper piston clockwise into place in the cylinder, then align the cutout in the piston with the tap on the inner pad by turning the piston back. And I also replace the brake cable (this is the most painful process). Make the bleeding process and wheels alignment. Now, it’s time to rolling again!