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This is my favorite Star Craft character, why? I think you know why

Sarah Kerrigan, Starcraft © Blizzard Entertainment

Today, I would like to share the step by step how I draw using Corel Painter, the reason I used this magical software is, there are more closed to the traditional technique, more artistic and wonderful variety of brush variants the program offers.

Usually, I only make this 7 steps, enough, I didn’t make of tutorial or something like that, didn’t want to teach you to do this and that (in fact, I still in learning process), just want to share, if you want to draw, draw from your inner heart, that better…

Step 1: I start out by making a rough sketch at new layer, build the simple structure. I often use simple airbrushes.

Step 2: Then I add basic color using difference layer.

Step 3: focusing on the relationship between light and shadows.

Step 4: Make structure more solid and start to build the background.

Step 5: I create more details using oils and digital watercolor.

Step 6: Need more details.

Step 7: Then, until, I have to force my mind to stop before I continue this forever… click here for Full Preview

So, today I decided, front bushing time! For warm up, we’re looking for some fact;

From the late 1987 (fourth-generation)  - 2000 (sixth-generation) civic, Honda applied a double wishbone suspension, normally used in Formula 1 racing machines and prestige vehicles, to a mass-produced model for the first time. The result was an excellent balance of handling stability and superior comfort.

The advantage of a double wishbone suspension is that it is fairly easy to work out the effect of moving each joint, so the kinematics of the suspension can be tuned easily and wheel motion can be optimized. It is also easy to work out the loads that different parts will be subjected to which allows more optimized lightweight parts to be designed. They also provide increasing negative camber gain all the way to full jounce travel unlike the MacPherson strut which provides negative camber gain only at the beginning of jounce travel and then reverses into positive camber gain at high jounce amounts.

Double wishbones are usually considered to have superior dynamic characteristics as well as load-handling capabilities, and are still found on higher performance vehicles. Examples of makes in which double wishbones can be found include Alfa Romeo, Honda and Mercedes-Benz. Short long arms suspension, a type of double wishbone suspension, is very common on front suspensions for medium-to-large cars such as the Honda Accord, Peugeot 407, or Mazda 6/Atenza, and is very common on sports cars and racing cars. Source : http://www.absoluteastronomy.com/topics/Double_wishbone_suspension, http://world.honda.com/CIVIC/technology05/,

And including my fifth-generation, that’s why I love my Honda. Some people say, the system is too much for small car. But, another fact is, the advantages will come with the disadvantages too, the disadvantage is that it is slightly more complex than other systems like a MacPherson strut. Due to the increased number of components within the suspension setup it takes much longer to service and is heavier than an equivalent MacPherson design.

To maintenance the superior level, it must be superior care too, how do I know if my bushes need replacing? I rather use my eyes than suddenly hear with my ears.

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Looking around, there wear, this wear, that wear…

Must take out the ‘wishbone’ itself…

Nothing to worry, nothing to fear…

Must to believe in our self….

Jack up the car and remove the wheels, my goal is to remove entire lower control arm (LCA).  Remove the bracket that hold the sway bar, first remove the bolt that I mark with * at the picture, because the bolt also tie the LCA bracket too. And then remove the other bolts…

Remove the sway bar end link …

To remove the Honda LCA ball joint, I highly recommend you to using ball joint remover, that make your life easy, because Honda ball joint is superior tight, some people may prefer use hammer or ‘jack technique’ .

Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot.

Now, time to go men shopping!

For sway bar end link bushing (Malaysian people called it satay), I use satay (what the funny name) from Honda Accord SM4 (no special reason, just because my dealer didn’t have stock for SR3/SR4).

I go to machine shop and replace all the LCA bushing using press machine,

This is a picture after bush replacement, cleaning and repaint process, look like new! I’m excited to install it back and test drive.

To install sway bar bush, you need to cut it (look at the picture) except if you can do the black magic. Refresh the damper fork and self-locking bolt grease.

Some fact; A sway bar or anti-roll bar or stabilizer bar is a part of an automobile suspension that helps reduce the roll of a vehicle that is induced by cornering or road irregularities. It connects opposite (left/right) wheels together through short lever arms linked by a torsion spring. A sway bar increases the suspension’s roll stiffness—its resistance to roll in turns, independent of its spring rate in the vertical direction. The first stabilizer bar patent was awarded to the Canadian S. L. C. Coleman of Fredericton, New Brunswick on April 22, 1919. Source : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sway_bar

If the LCA is hanging extended when you tighten the bolts, the bushings will wear out prematurely because they are preloaded when sitting in the normal resting position.  As a generic rule suspension bolts should be tightened with the car’s full weight on its wheels.  If you don’t, the bushings are tightened in a twisted position and will wear out.  To load the suspension, rest the weight of the car on ramps.  You could use a hydraulic jack to raise the suspension arm in relation to the body (this also puts the arms in the correct position) but be very careful to not carry the weight of the car on the jack – this could cause the car to shift or fall down!

Reinstallation is the reverse of removal, DON’T FORGET to put the cotter-pin back, the picture show the cotter-pin correct position. Just remember to tighten the suspension to the final torque in the loaded position.  To do this, install suspension bolts loose (not even wrench tight), rest the car on ramps, and then tighten the bolts to their final torque.

Torque Spec,

Put back the wheel and do tire alignment.

After test drive : Wow, feel so refresh, car going smooth and rigid at the high RPM, improve cornering.

At the late 1996, I was influenced by amazing comic ‘Dragon Ball’ like other child at the time, I collected everything, start with comic, sticker, card, video (yeah, VCR before VCD take over), poster, vinil etc.  I really enjoyed reading his manga, he introduce me about the manga world, at the time, I tell myself, I want to draw like Akira Toriyama, I think, I’m not the one, even Masashi Kishimoto idolizing him, this my fan art for my favorite move, fusion! Click here for full view.

My Illustration Novel, Versus, Page 5,

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Yes, I know…this is lame topic, but, as engineering student, Honda Civic Type-R production is always give me a great inspiration “The quality never know the bound”! so, you can say, this is my tribute entry. I collected the fact and data from the internet. I recommend you to read this article if you are newbie about Honda VTEC before you scroll down.

This topic I would like to dedicate to the first model of Honda Civic Type-R , EK-9, the legendary, the legacy, the power of dream!

Introduction

The Honda Civic Type R is the highest performance version of the Honda Civic made by Honda Motor Company of Japan. It features a lightened and stiffened body, specially tuned engine and upgraded brakes and chassis. Red is also used in the interior to give it a special sporting distinction and to separate it from other Honda models. In Japan, a one-make series of Honda Type R cars where privateers can purchase an off-road Type R and compete in a series championship is a stepping stone for many aspiring racing drivers.  Source : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Civic_Type_R#Premier_Special_Edition

1st generation (EK9 chassis)

The first Civic to receive the ‘Type R’ name was based on the 6th-generation ‘EK’ Civic. The contributing base model was the JDM Civic 3-door hatchback called SiR, code named EK4. Like its big brother the Integra Type R DC2/JDM DB8, the Civic SiR’s transformation into a Type R was achieved by working on the base model and improving it to Honda’s idea of a car capable of high performance on the circuit.

The first Civic to receive the Type R badge was introduced in 1998 as the EK9. The EK9 shared many characteristics with the Integra Type R DC2/ JDM DB8 such as omission of sound deadening and other weight-reduction measures, a hand-ported B16B engine, front helical limited-slip differential and close ratio gearbox etc.. The B16B engine boasted one of the highest power output per litre of all time for an NA engine with 185 PS (136 kW; 182 hp) from a 1.6L. For the first time, a strategically seam welded monocoque chassis was used to improve chassis rigidity. The interior featured red Recaro seats,red Recaro door cards and red Recaro floor mat, a titanium shift knob and a Momo steering wheel. In 1999 the Type Rx was introduced featuring a CD player, body colored retractable electric door mirrors, power windows, auto air conditioning, key-less entry unlock system, aluminum sports pedals, and a carbon type center panel. The SiR badge from the previous 2 generations was ceded to the EK4 Civic as a mainstream sedan and hatchback which was sold in huge numbers across the globe due to its relatively low cost, practicality and everyday usable street performance/drivability.

- End of Introduction -

To make you clear, I’ll put the data that I collected from WWW, this the comparison between base model (EK-4) was also the great car and Type-R model (EK-9) improve from the great car and engine!

Power Section

The Masterpiece of Art!

So, what actually they (Honda’s Engineer) do? To create such a masterpiece, not an easy task, to create masterpiece (B16B)  from already masterpiece (B16A) is very difficult task! And I’m here not only talked about power, because, with ‘aftermarket’ it’s very easy to archive as long as you have money, I’m more focus about balance, harmonic, durability, research and art!

On the below are the power curves for B16A 170ps versus B16B. Note the big gain in power after 6000rpm, the VTEC switch-over point between mild and wild cam profiles. The gain at extreme high rpms is readily apparent on the curves. Source : http://asia.vtec.net/beystock/honda/civicr/

Honda tune the R by hand

This is one of the factors why R are so limited, Honda using their experience and knowledge gained in the racing field  and making use of it in their production lines for street cars. The Civic’s VTEC B16B type engine retained its stock displacement, but Honda increased its horsepower from 170 (B16A) to 185 (B16B). It’s only *15* horses more, but those 15 horses were really tweaked out using Honda’s formula 1 knowledge — from an engine that was already getting 100 horsepower per liter!

Currently, production line engines and engine parts are made by computer-guided NCR machines, and are of very high quality. However, Mr. Fumiyasu Suga (Type R’s assistant chief engineer) believes that in order to make a true race engine, some parts must be built/assembled by hand. In specific, the assembling of the engine, balancing parts, and porting and polishing need to be done by hand. Amazingly, all Type R engines are built this way. Source : http://www.superhonda.com

Piston

One of the keys to tuning a NA engine is the piston. In order to increase the compression ratio, aluminum, pent-roof-type pistons were used. In order to keep a good precision of mass, the aluminum pistons were forged. The piston ring was given more space to move around in, and to prevent piston “head” shake caused by the extra space, a molybdenum coating (also used in the NSX) was applied to lessen friction. Source : http://www.superhonda.com

The piston skirt was made lighter in order to lessen the inertial mass. Since lightening the piston causes the piston “neck” to rock back and forth, a molybdenum coating was applied to lessen friction.

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This is normal maintenance. Small job, straightforward…

This piece is called engine stopper rubber but some people called it engine mount, used to absorb vibration from your engine at the both site (left and right) especially when launch time or changing gear, so, it will effect engine torque a little bit.

Jack up the car and remove the tires on both sides.

I started with the right side, open the splash shield…

Wow! Now I know why my engine dance sometimes…

Before remove it, gently and slowly jack the engine up using a piece of wood on the jack to distribute weight evenly on the oil pan and also at the gearbox.

To remove it, very easy job, straightforward until I’m too lazy to write on…

Same goes to right side…

Worse!

Horrible and disaster!

Replace with the new parts…

 All done, throttle response is back and so is smoother gear shifting. Car is also quieter at idle now with fewer vibrations. 

I didn’t make of tutorial or something like that, didn’t want to teach you to do this and that (in fact, I’m still in the learning process), just want to share, if you want to draw, draw from your inner heart, that better…

So, for the equipment,

Basic color tube, canvas, several variation of brush, palette knives (Palette knives are for mixing paint on the palette or applying large amounts of paint to the canvas.), turpentine (special turpentine for oil painting) and linseed oil are used to thin the paint. And for finishing, varnish (Varnish is a final layer applied to a painting after it is finished and completely dry. It’s used on paintings that are not going to be framed under glass to protect them from dirt, dust, and pollution in the environment. Varnish also homogenizes (evens out) the final appearance of a painting, making it all equally glossy or matte. Source : http://painting.about.com/od/paintingforbeginners/a/varnish_why.htm )

A palette is essential for mixing paint.

I found this article is a good information for beginning, just for  sharing, but you can skip

Source : http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100202133340AA63kPb

In oil painting when do you use turpentine versus linseed oil?

First, linseed oil does not thicken paint. Quite the contrary, adding more oil eventually leads to a runny consistency. Adding small amounts can be useful for achieving certain effects, thinning the paint is one of them.

Now, your under-painting should not have any extra oil added to it. The remaining options are to use paint straight from the tube or to reduce the viscosity (thin it) with one of three solvents (turpentine, mineral spirits or spike oil of lavender which sounds like an oil but it is a strong solvent like turpentine).

The idea is that the under-layers are comprised of the least oil so they dry faster than the subsequent layers applied on top of them. Solvents like the three mentioned have the benefit of evaporating quickly so all that remains is the thin layer of paint. You do a thinned wash block-in to layout the general masses of the composition.

Some people try to avoid using the three solvents in an effort to avoid the fumes or odor. An option that avoids these three solvents is to use paint straight from the tube but to spread it onto the canvas very thinly. You essentially scribble the paint onto the canvas using a brush as you would color using a color crayon. The result will be a scribbled/sketchy block-in. The technique is known as “scumbling.” This first layer of paint will not have extra oil and it will also be thin because you have stretched out a small amount of paint over a relatively large area.

In oil painting there is a rule “fat over lean” that refers to the oil content. The rule addresses the different rates at which each layer dries. You want the under-layers to dry first. If they dry slower than the outer layers, the outer layers will wrinkle and crack. The percentage of oil in the paint affects the drying rate. The reason you do not want to add oil to the under-layers is that the extra oil will prolong the drying rate of the layer. Although you are not required to increase the percentage of oil in subsequent layers, this rule must be followed if you do have a reason to add oil to your mixtures during the paint application stage. To restate this in different words, You could paint a painting never adding additional oil at any stage as long as you keep the first layers spread thin. Using additional oil by itself or in a medium may be desired. There are a variety of characteristics that this imparts on the paint. If you choose to add extra oil in these forms they should only be added in the outer/final layers. You never want to use a medium or extra oil in the lower layers.

Oil paint is comprised of the vehicle for pigment……an oil, the pigment and varying additives which could include stabilizer, chalks, waxes, drying agents. The most common oil has been linseed oil. Other oils are sometimes used such as safflower, poppy and walnut. The ratio of oil to pigment is important and each pigment has different properties. Adding too much oil can dilute the paint so much that its integrity is compromised which would result in a weakened paint film that may not cure properly along with a list of other negative side effects. The use of additional oil can be used to enhance paint flow, brushability, translucency, etc. It is also important to note that it is not necessary to use the same oil as that in a given brand of paint. Safflower oil is becoming as common as linseed oil. You can use linseed oil with any other oil. The attributes of each oil are blended.

The main thing to think about when using turpentine in a mixture is that it is a thinner. A common ingredient in a medium is stand oil. It is thick like honey and needs to be thinned. A common medium is made with linseed oil, stand oil and one of the three solvents listed earlier.

Turpentine is also good for cleaning paint brushes. It will removed dried paint in the brush. Mineral spirits also can be used to clean your brushes but it only removes wet paint. Now because turpentine is so good at removing dried paint, using too much when painting will remove some of the paint in your lower layers so you have to watch out for this. The third solvent mentioned, spike oil of lavender is the strongest and it also evaporates the slowest of the three. It is very expensive and should only be used for mixing directly with you paint or in a medium. Do not waste it by cleaning brushes with it although it would clean them quite thoroughly. This slower evaporation rate can be useful.

Learning the specific characteristics of your materials will greatly enhance your options in painting. Everything has an effect. Knowing what is used to achieve an effect allows you to make informed decisions that lead to a desired result. Ultimately you want to pull together skills and materials to create something like pulling out a recipe and the ingredients to bake a cake. In either case you don’t do so well if you hope things come together by accident.

- End of Information-

I start with basic pencil sketch, some artist prefer to make detail sketch, that’s good, but I’m too lazy for that, I rather like to detailing my work next with color. The first layer of paint is applied as a thin wash, I put some basic color, character and background, lets it dry…

Playing with the shadow, use a little black to adjust face, background and clothing…

Do more adjustments in the face.

Focus on eyes and nose, mix the color until get the right tone, need more patient…

Adding more details at the hair, mouth and ear, try to balance the shadow between skin and shadow, to make color layers smooth, I used my fingers tip. Adjust body posture.

To make cloth and hair more realistic and lively and not just a flat black color, I mix a few of blue and black, then, balance it with light and contrast, lets it dry…

I love this part, color the tree or green thing, make me excited,  you should try, just put your feeling on it, lets it dry…

Back to background…put more details…

Once again, more details on the face…

Make sure painting completely dry, then apply the varnish oil, put the frame and done!

Motivation: What important is, don’t give up and don’t be hesitate, this your arts, be proud

My Illustration Novel, Versus, Page 3, previous page