DIY : Honda Civic B-Series Driveshaft / CV (constant velocity) / Drive Axle Boots and Grease ReplacementPosted on Monday, October 15th, 2012 at 12:15 pm
What you’re aspect from the moving parts? Although the CV joints are EXTREMELY tough, but the rubber cover that protects the drive axle joint, it’s also known as the CV (constant velocity) boot, is not. The boots will tear (like mine) or crack over time, and the grease that the boots hold inside will leak out. The CV joint will then be exposed to dirt, moisture and other debris, so you can replace them before damage is done to the more expensive CV joint. Remember CV joints also are EXTREMELY expensive!
The boots will be the indicator for you to service the CV, time by time, heat by heat, the grease itself will degrade, now it’s time to inspect and refresh!
DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.
Since this job requires quite a bit of disassembly, you may want to take advantage of the opportunity and change out your front brake service or do front suspension & sway bar maintenance (Bushing replacement)
Raise both front wheels off the ground and secure car with jack stands . Remove wheel.
Raise the locking tap on the spindle nut and remove it. I have 2 method to remove the high torque spindle nut:
1. The easier way, use the impact gun! Or machine gun! (Just Kidding), if you didn’t have any, just go nearby workshop, just loosen it, not to remove! Then hand tight it with the breaker bar, drive slowly to your home and remove it with the breaker bar.
2. Using fully of your superman power with the breaker bar and socket extension to remove! Make sure your wheel still on the car (with the the center cap remove if you have any) and your car on the ground and ask your friend or neighbor to push the brakes to lock the rotor from spinning.
Remove damper fork bolt,
To remove the Honda LCA ball joint, I highly recommend you to using ball joint remover, that make your life easy, because Honda ball joint is superior tight, some people may prefer use hammer or ‘jack technique’ .
Pry the driveshaft assembly with a screwdriver as shown to force the set ring at the driveshaft end past the groove.
Pull the inboard joint and remove the driveshaft and CV joint from the differential case as an assembly.
– With Intermediate Shaft:
Remove the right driveshaft from the bearing support by tapping the inboard joint of the driveshaft with a plastic hammer.
1. Do not pull on the driveshaft, as the CV joint may come apart.
2. Use care when prying out the assembly and pull it straight to avoid damaging the differential oil seal.
Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer.
This is the best time to check the differential oil seal for any wear.
This is the main part of the driveshaft, I only remove the driver side (right hand drive), the passenger side is quite similar, except its link with the intermediate shaft that link to the gearbox.
The leaking point at the outboard joint boot close up.
Cut out all the boots band (red dashed line).
Remove the inboard joint and roller.
Remove the circlip (using circlip remover or anything that suitable), according to the manual service, it’s a good practice to install everything back in their original positions, mark the spider and driveshaft then remove the spider using a commercially available bearing remover, but I am just using plastic hammer and its work. It’s hard to remove the stopper ring, the only reason I remove it, is easier for me to remove/install the dynamic damper and boots, you should consider before removing it. Then remove the inboard boot and dynamic damper from the driveshaft.
Inspect and clean everything, remove as much of the grease as possible, replace circlip or stopper ring if needed.
I don’t know why I put this picture, ha ha
Inspect and clean the inboard joint.
Remove the outboard joint boot.
Clean the outboard joint from grease. Inspect for faulty movement and wear, according to manual service, this part should not be disassemble.
USE ONLY DRIVESHAFT GREASE
Clean up more.
Pack the outboard and inboard joint including inside the boots with the driveshaft/joint grease.
Recommended grease quantity, inboard joint –> 120-130 g (4.2-4.6 oz), outboard joint –> 90-100 g (3.2-3.5 oz).
Crimp the boot clamp tight, very very tight, be careful not to damage the boots . I carefully used a screw driver and pliers, but there is a special tool you can buy that is designed for these style clamps (come with the boots). Once again, very tight…
But, I prefer to use this type of clamps (need to buy separately), easy and more clamping force, cheap clamping plier like mine is good enough to securely clamp the boots.
Reinstallation is the reverse of removal, DON’T FORGET to put the cotter-pin back, the picture show the cotter-pin correct position. Just remember to tighten the suspension to the final torque in the loaded position. To do this, install suspension bolts loose (not even wrench tight), rest the car on ramps, and then tighten the bolts to their final torque.
Another tear has been wiped!