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DIY : 92-95 Honda Civic Nippondenso Alternator Whining & Carbon Brush & Bearing Replacement

Posted on Tuesday, September 2nd, 2014 at 9:53 am

When I turn on all heavy load, I mean amp load (air-conditioner, headlights (HI), fog lights, audio system, etc.) the alternator will start make whining noise like my blander machine. Inspection & suspecting;

1. I measure the battery voltage (engine at the normal operating temperature), seem normal, between 13.9 – 15.1 Voltage, depend on the load as long as it doesn’t exceed and below the range (to improve fuel economy, the alternator control system within the PGM-FI ECU changes the voltage generated at the alternator in accordance with the driving conditions). That mean my battery is under charge and voltage regulator is functioning.

2. I didn’t suspect the bearing, worn bearing will whining all the time.

3. Check the belt condition and belt deflection (5-7mm), seem OK.

4. Luckily, I have the spare alternator, take from the car graveyard, make the replacement, no more whining anymore! So, that’s mean, my alternator almost at the dead end, the whining come from electrical noise, the replacement is essential.

This is the step for alternator replacement, disconnect the cable from the battery negative (-) terminal and disconnect the alternator connector from the alternator. Remove the terminal nut and the white wire from the B terminal.

Also, don’t forget to dis-clip the white cable that attach to the alternator body.

Alternative – Make more work space by dis-clip the wire connectors. You will see clearly the adjusting nut.

Remove the adjusting nut and then remove adjusting bolt.

Jack stand the car, remove the left tire and under the alternator, there is alternator through bolt, remove it.

Loosen the belt by moving the alternator and then, remove it. Then carefully take out the alternator.

If you just want to make the new alternator replacement, just install everything back in the reverse order of removal, make sure everything in their place, and make the belting adjustment by adjusting the alternator adjusting bolt. But in my case, I need to refreshing my used alternator by cleaning, replace the bearing and the carbon brush.

At the alternator end cover, remove everything in the blue circle (This is how I use to short my text)

And again. Then remove the voltage regulator, diode and brush holder.

Again…

Inspect the slip rings, not in the bad condition…

Remove the pulley locknut (it is easy if you have an impact wrench/gun) and remove the pulley.

Loosen the rear housing (I used flat screw driver) from drive end housing.

Knock a little bit to loosen the housing.

Tap down the rotor shaft at the solid surface to split the housing, be careful, not too much. I don’t know what to call this method, but it’s work!

Remove the rotor by using the bearing puller.

Polishing the slip rings using small grits sand paper.

Check the continuity between the slip rings and no continuity between slip rings and the rotor or rotor shaft.

New set of carbon brush, make by TRIS Inc. , carbon brushes specialist company from Japan.

The old one still could be use, as long as you could see the company logo , but it is a good practice to replace alternator carbon brush that run over than 200 000 km.

Alternator brushes length : Standard : 10.5mm, service limit : 5.5mm.

Soldering set.

De-soldering.

Alternator brushes length : Standard : 10.5mm

Soldering.

Remove the bearing retainer.

This is how I remove the front bearing, using suitable socket, and hammer it out.

Comparison with the old and the new bearing (KOYO 437 vs NSK 817-101DG8B).

The better procedure to install the bearing is using the press machine.

Install back the bearing retainer.

Comparison with the old and the new bearing (NSK 399 vs NSK 6202DW).

Use the same method from the previous one to remove the old bearing, be careful with the spacer ring.

In my case I am using 27 deep length socket size.

The better procedure to install the bearing is using the press machine.

Insert back the rotor into the big and small bearing housing using hand force.

Using back 27 deep length socket size to cover the slip rings.

Hammer down the rotor shaft until the two halves close together and tighten the four nuts to fasten the casing together.

Install everything back in the reverse order of removal, make sure everything in their place, easy right?

Great link : http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/alternatorgeneratortheory.htm ,

http://www.eham.net/articles/15113 , http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182896-1.html

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6 Responses to “DIY : 92-95 Honda Civic Nippondenso Alternator Whining & Carbon Brush & Bearing Replacement”

  1. ennazri says:

    Bro,
    Alternator aku voltage time charging 12.0 – 12.5 v ja. kalau aku follow ko nya instruction ni ada harapan dia ok tak untuk ok?

  2. Raz says:

    Ada banyak sebab, pernah jadi, antara punca dia voltage regulator yang kat dalam alternator tu dah rosak. Tapi try check battery punya condition dulu. Kalau battery ok, recommend, tukar alternator, bro bleh follow instruction.

  3. ennazri says:

    Da settle dah. Semuanya pasal grounding. Voltage di body 12++ Volt. Tapi bila check di engine, dalam 13-14V. So aku amik wayar, ikat situ dan sambung pi ground battery. Skang constant 13-18 Volt cuma wayar grounding ingat minggu ni nak buat balik cos pakai wayar yg dah tak efficent. So settle masalah ground, masalah overheat dan nak kena check signal DLC stabil ke idak. By teori macam akan stabil.

  4. Raz says:

    Bagus la kalau dh ok bro, Grounding memang penting, ingat bro amik bacaan 12.0 – 12.5 v tu kat direct battery, kalau harapkan grounding oem saja macam tak efektif, kena tambah grounding body, sampai bacaan jadi 0.00ohm. Macam yang bro tau, tujuan voltage regulator upkan voltage battery lebih dari 12.6v supaya arus boleh bergerak, dan proses cas terjadi, tapi 18V tu macam terlampau tinggi, atau bro tersilap typo? Masaalah overheat memang macam hantu…kalau dah jumpa, boleh la share ilmu skit bro, hehe.

  5. ennazri says:

    Aiseh .. bukan 18V la, mau cair baterry. 13-14 Volt. So nak check ohm macamana plak?

    Sblm jumpa penyelesaian overheat, sumbat D16 rad masuk B16. By teori boleh ja sumbat. By praktikal, mcm ok ja. By right kalau jumpa penyelesaian grounding ni awal, boleh settle masalah overheat cos maybe fan tak pusing cukup laju.

  6. Raz says:

    Bro check voltage guna apa? Boleh guna multimeter, check resistor, satu probe letak kat -ve battery, satu lagi letak kat point2 body, alternator, distributor, engine, etc. Overheat ni macam2 punca dia…kena trace satu2…

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