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DIY : Honda Civic B-Series Engine Oil Pan/Oil Sump Gasket Replacement

Posted on Tuesday, February 14th, 2012 at 10:06 am

This is critical maintenance issue to handle (if you are first timer), every step to install is critical, the worse case is, your engine oil may dry at the time you drive and overheat or you just lucky to repeat all the step and waste your time and money, I bear all this in my mind, so, I better not to do any single mistake.

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

First, need to make sure the leak is REALLY come from oil pan/oil sump or somewhere else, so, after looking around, yes obviously…

1st step, drain out the engine oil…

This is the reason why you need to replace oil drain bolt washer,

To gain more access room, remove the splash shield,

The next step is to remove entire header (I mean before catalyst converter), need to disconnect the oxygen sensor at the first place,

Remove exhaust pipe bracket nut,

Remove exhaust manifold bracket bolt,

Remove nut that tight exhaust pipe (from the header) and catalyst converter,

Remove the header cover and the entire self-locking nut that hold the header, and carefully remove header from your engine…replace the gasket if needed.

I took this chance to cleans the head exhaust side holes from carbon deposit that build-up,

Remove the bracket that connects between engine block and gearbox (optional) to gain more access room, remove flywheel cover.

And then, remove the oil pan/oil sump,

I think, this the source of leak…there are two leaking major factor, 1st the wrecked gasket and 2nd the bending oil pan. My oil pan looks flat and ok.

So, shopping time!

WARNING : The procedure below is a fatal to follow, or you will probably face the never ending leak. Just to remember, this procedure is suitable for Honda B-series engine only and I don’t recommend for other engine type.

This is important step, make sure everything is extremely clean, especially oil pan mate surface and block mate surface, I also clean all the stud, nut and bolt. The cleaner everything is the more you reduce your chances for leaks.

Look extremely closely at the two studs next to the transmission, gasket has 2 metal eyelets inside and lots of times the old ones get left behind on the studs. Remove it.

Put new gasket at the oil pan (don’t apply any liquid gasket at the oil pan), the gasket itself have 2 line that designed to prevent the oil leakage and this is good enough.

Apply liquid gasket (I recommend Hondabond, but my local dealer only have Permatex Ultra Grey RTV) as even bead, centered between the edges of the mating surface (cylinder block side only), just a little bit…I repeat, just a little bit.  Do not install the parts if five minutes or more have elapsed since applying the liquid gasket.

Tighten the nuts finger tight at six points as shown below.

Tighten all the bolts and nuts in two steps torque the bolts and nuts in a criss-cross pattern as shown below, starting from nut 1. Torque: 12 Nm (9 lb-ft), use only small torque wrench, or you can use your six sense (like I do).

Fill the engine oil and drive at the very least 3 or 4 hours after installing oil pan. My recommendation: 12 hours.


Install everything back in reverse and enjoy your drive and free from everyday-think-about-oil-pan-leak .

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