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Posts Tagged B16B

DIY : OBD 1 to OBD 2 Alternator Plug Converter

Posted in My Automotive Life | No Comments »

Now-days its seem hard to find the B16a OBD1 alternator from the junkyard, luckily, B-series OBD2 alternator is compatible but not just plug and play, there a different type of socket (OBD1 = round, OBD2 = square) and luckily again, I found 5 unit B20b alternator from Honda CRV, take them all! So, the problem is, how to convert it into OBD1 car without cutting any wire? The answer is plug converter! But, unluckily, not available in my place. Give up? no.

Wait! Don’t throw away your broken heart OBD1 alternator, take out the voltage regulator.

and modify into this…with great patiently of course…

With the OBD2 alternator plug that stick at the alternator, I soldered it with the OBD1 voltage regulator socket (don’t forget to check the continuity with the multimeter before soldering) , seal with the epoxy and  cover and secure it with flexible split tubing. Here the outlet diagram.

Tadaa! 

DIY : Honda Civic/Integra 92-00 Condenser Fan Motor Carbon Brushes Replacement

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This is could be another good preventive maintenance that we overlooked, after your car run over 150 000km, the condenser fan is very important part for the heat exchange system to help the condenser dissipation heat efficiently from hot compressed gasses supplied by the compressor, if it failed, it may cause idle problem when you turn on the air conditioning system.

First thing is to remove the fan by remove the bolt that hold the fan (blue circle).

Unplug the fan motor socket and remove the few relay (for the space) and remove the bottom right bolt…

and the bottom left side.

I also remove the exhaust manifold heat shield for the space…

and the radiator fan too! (this is a good change to replace radiator fan motor carbon brushes). By removing 4 bolts that attached the fan to the radiator.

To remove the motor from the casing and the fan blade is a piece of cake.

Here we go.

Remove the 3 locking tabs by using chisel or flat screwdriver (not proper, but it’s work!) with hammer.

Cleaning time!

The carbon brushes seem at the dead end. Unfortunately, I did not found the perfect shape for the replacement, so, I modified from the alternator carbon brushes using file (I mean…a tools file) and small grits sand paper.

Need a patient booster…

Cut the middle of the old carbon brushes wire, and cut the new one exactly same length with the old one, soldering together, put back everything, fortunately, there is spring holder pin (red circle), important : Don’t forget to release it back after you Insert the rotor.

Polishing the commutator using small grits sand paper.

Check for the worn bearing, replace if need, mine like the new one!

Reinstall everthing, important : don’t forget to stake back the motor casing locking tab using chisel or other method, I believe it will go for another 150 000km and save your precious money from buying the new motor.

DIY : 92-95 Honda Civic Nippondenso Alternator Whining & Carbon Brush & Bearing Replacement

Posted in My Automotive Life | 6 Comments »

When I turn on all heavy load, I mean amp load (air-conditioner, headlights (HI), fog lights, audio system, etc.) the alternator will start make whining noise like my blander machine. Inspection & suspecting;

1. I measure the battery voltage (engine at the normal operating temperature), seem normal, between 13.9 – 15.1 Voltage, depend on the load as long as it doesn’t exceed and below the range (to improve fuel economy, the alternator control system within the PGM-FI ECU changes the voltage generated at the alternator in accordance with the driving conditions). That mean my battery is under charge and voltage regulator is functioning.

2. I didn’t suspect the bearing, worn bearing will whining all the time.

3. Check the belt condition and belt deflection (5-7mm), seem OK.

4. Luckily, I have the spare alternator, take from the car graveyard, make the replacement, no more whining anymore! So, that’s mean, my alternator almost at the dead end, the whining come from electrical noise, the replacement is essential.

This is the step for alternator replacement, disconnect the cable from the battery negative (-) terminal and disconnect the alternator connector from the alternator. Remove the terminal nut and the white wire from the B terminal.

Also, don’t forget to dis-clip the white cable that attach to the alternator body.

Alternative – Make more work space by dis-clip the wire connectors. You will see clearly the adjusting nut.

Remove the adjusting nut and then remove adjusting bolt.

Jack stand the car, remove the left tire and under the alternator, there is alternator through bolt, remove it.

Loosen the belt by moving the alternator and then, remove it. Then carefully take out the alternator.

If you just want to make the new alternator replacement, just install everything back in the reverse order of removal, make sure everything in their place, and make the belting adjustment by adjusting the alternator adjusting bolt. But in my case, I need to refreshing my used alternator by cleaning, replace the bearing and the carbon brush.

At the alternator end cover, remove everything in the blue circle (This is how I use to short my text)

And again. Then remove the voltage regulator, diode and brush holder.

Again…

Inspect the slip rings, not in the bad condition…

Remove the pulley locknut (it is easy if you have an impact wrench/gun) and remove the pulley.

Loosen the rear housing (I used flat screw driver) from drive end housing.

Knock a little bit to loosen the housing.

Tap down the rotor shaft at the solid surface to split the housing, be careful, not too much. I don’t know what to call this method, but it’s work!

Remove the rotor by using the bearing puller.

Polishing the slip rings using small grits sand paper.

Check the continuity between the slip rings and no continuity between slip rings and the rotor or rotor shaft.

New set of carbon brush, make by TRIS Inc. , carbon brushes specialist company from Japan.

The old one still could be use, as long as you could see the company logo , but it is a good practice to replace alternator carbon brush that run over than 200 000 km.

Alternator brushes length : Standard : 10.5mm, service limit : 5.5mm.

Soldering set.

De-soldering.

Alternator brushes length : Standard : 10.5mm

Soldering.

Remove the bearing retainer.

This is how I remove the front bearing, using suitable socket, and hammer it out.

Comparison with the old and the new bearing (KOYO 437 vs NSK 817-101DG8B).

The better procedure to install the bearing is using the press machine.

Install back the bearing retainer.

Comparison with the old and the new bearing (NSK 399 vs NSK 6202DW).

Use the same method from the previous one to remove the old bearing, be careful with the spacer ring.

In my case I am using 27 deep length socket size.

The better procedure to install the bearing is using the press machine.

Insert back the rotor into the big and small bearing housing using hand force.

Using back 27 deep length socket size to cover the slip rings.

Hammer down the rotor shaft until the two halves close together and tighten the four nuts to fasten the casing together.

Install everything back in the reverse order of removal, make sure everything in their place, easy right?

Great link : http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/alternatorgeneratortheory.htm ,

http://www.eham.net/articles/15113 , http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182896-1.html

DIY : Honda Civic/Integra Distributor Oil Seal and O-Ring Replacement

Posted in My Automotive Life | 2 Comments »

I think, I frequently write about leaking oil, yeah, this is another story…

Once upon a time, the old O-Ring become very old until he didn’t care about what goes around anymore…

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Some oily below the distributor? Sometime, this old O-Ring playing tricks on you, until you thought, your head is leaking! (I mean, your engine head). There will be oil around the corner, where the block mate with the head, this is good replacement after you replacing the camshaft plug and VTEC solenoid gasket.

This procedure is specifically for Honda Tec distributor, other brand may have same or different procedure. So, the first step is to remove the 2-P connector from the distributor.

I didn’t remove the spark plug cables for easy installation. Remove three distributor cap bolts.

Marking the related position between distributor and cylinder head, to make sure the ignition timing didn’t out of spec during installation.

Then, remove the distributor mounting bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head. As you could see the picture below, where is the leaking point and O-Ring that responsible for this problem location (external leak). If you just want to change this O-Ring only, ignore the entire procedure below, just make sure everything is clean and install the new O-Ring.

The consequence.

To prevent 180° out of time when install back the distributor end, mark the center shaft and distributor end. Note : The lugs on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft are both offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180° out of time.

Turn circlip remove point to the pin hole, flat screw driver is good enough to remove this circlip.

Turn the distributor ignition rotor until you see the screw that hold the rotor, remove the ignition rotor and leak cover.

Remove three screws (cream color circle) that hold the ignition control module (ICM), TDC/CKP/CYP sensors and two screws (black color circle) that hold the ignition coil.

Remove the wires grommet.

Optional : Remove the two last TDC/CKP/CYP sensors for more work space. TheTDC/CKP/CYP sensors have a small bump on the bottom that fits into corresponding holes in the distributor case so that the sensors will only fit in one place and can’t be adjusted.

My oil seal seem ok, there’s no major leak, but, it’s a good practice to change it since it run over 100k.

This is what the entire system look like.

Pull out the oil seal using the flat screw driver, it should be easy.

Cleaning time! I clean using silicone spray. Before:

After:

There are 2 type OEM Honda distributor O-Ring common type. The dealer tell me that OEM Honda distributor O-Ring make from viton material, that why the price is high that normal rubber type (about 4 times!).

Comparison.

Install the new oil seal, make sure the seal seat properly, I using 14mm socket to slowly push it down.

Install back all together reverse of removal, install the new O-Ring, and don’t forget the marking points that I mentioned before or your engine won’t start.

Install the distributor on the cylinder head,  don’t forget the ignition timing marking point! That all, wait for the next chapter of the leaking oil story (I hope not!).

MOMO Steering Wheel Installations

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For better handling and stylish, this upgrade is the most, why I choose MOMO? because Honda choose them! MOMO steering wheel is the standard accessories for Honda NSX, Integra DC2/DC5 and Civic EK9 Type-R! The  steering wheel come with the thick leather anatomic grips design, that give you a firm grip and positive steering feel that you just can’t get from the stock wheel. A bit smaller diameter and aluminum material make it weigh half of my standard EG9 steering wheel! Better not to choose the smallest size, it will ruin the daily driving (except you want to feel like driving the go cart).

To install, is straight forward job, unless if you have an air bag, have a little bit tricky! Need suitable steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits), DC2 and 1992 – 1995 Honda Civic EG are interchangeable.

The standard one.

Remove the center pad and the steering wheel nut, no need a special tool,  enough with the socket and extension, the nut will be fairly tight. Remove the steering wheel by rocking it slightly from side-to-side as you pull steadily with both hands.

Install the steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits). Be sure the steering wheel shaft engages the turn signal canceling sleeve. Install back the steering wheel nut.

Install the horn button, connect the two wires to the horn button. It doesn’t matter which wire goes to which connector. If there no connector for the ground (body) just touch it at any place at the steering wheel adapter, put the tape or rewiring, etc., as long as it will stick there. Verify the horn operation. Make sure the steering wheel adapter arrow in the center position.

Insert the MOMO steering wheel and the adapter plate.

Secure it with the hex screw and everything is done. Easy right?

The silver spoke match with the dashboard.

Then take the car for a ride and verify that the turn signals shut off properly after making a turn and don’t forget to attack the corner!