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Posts Tagged B18CR

DIY : Honda Civic B-Series Driveshaft / CV (constant velocity) / Drive Axle Boots and Grease Replacement

Posted in My Automotive Life | 3 Comments »

What you’re aspect from the moving parts? Although the CV joints are EXTREMELY tough, but the rubber cover that protects the drive axle joint, it’s also known as the CV (constant velocity) boot, is not. The boots will tear (like mine) or crack over time, and the grease that the boots hold inside will leak out. The CV joint will then be exposed to dirt, moisture and other debris, so you can replace them before damage is done to the more expensive CV joint. Remember CV joints also are EXTREMELY expensive!

The boots will be the indicator for you to service the CV, time by time, heat by heat, the grease itself will degrade, now it’s time to inspect and refresh!

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Since this job requires quite a bit of disassembly, you may want to take advantage of the opportunity and change out your front brake service or do front suspension & sway bar maintenance (Bushing replacement)

Raise both front wheels off the ground and secure car with jack stands . Remove wheel.

Raise the locking tap on the spindle nut and remove it. I have 2 method to remove the high torque spindle nut:

1. The easier way, use the impact gun! Or machine gun! (Just Kidding), if you didn’t have any, just go nearby workshop, just loosen it, not to remove! Then hand tight it with the breaker bar, drive slowly to your home and remove it with the breaker bar.

2. Using fully of your superman power with the breaker bar and socket extension to remove! Make sure your wheel still on the car (with the the center cap remove if you have any) and your car on the ground and ask your friend or neighbor to push the brakes to lock the rotor from spinning.

Tadaa!

Remove damper fork bolt,

To remove the Honda LCA ball joint, I highly recommend you to using ball joint remover, that make your life easy, because Honda ball joint is superior tight, some people may prefer use hammer or ‘jack technique’ .

Pry the driveshaft assembly with a screwdriver as shown to force the set ring at the driveshaft end past the groove.

Pull the inboard joint and remove the driveshaft and CV joint from the differential case as an assembly.

– With Intermediate Shaft:

Remove the right driveshaft from the bearing support by tapping the inboard joint of the driveshaft with a plastic hammer.

CAUTION:

1. Do not pull on the driveshaft, as the CV joint may come apart.

2. Use care when prying out the assembly and pull it straight to avoid damaging the differential oil seal.

Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer.

This is the best time to check the differential oil seal for any wear.

This is the main part of the driveshaft, I only remove the driver side (right hand drive), the passenger side is quite similar, except its link with the intermediate shaft that link to the gearbox.

The leaking point at the outboard joint boot close up.

Cut out all the boots band (red dashed line).

Remove the inboard joint and roller.

Remove the circlip (using circlip remover or anything that suitable), according to the manual service, it’s a good practice to install everything back in their original positions, mark the spider and driveshaft then remove the spider using a commercially available bearing remover, but I am just using plastic hammer and its work. It’s hard to remove the stopper ring, the only reason I remove it, is easier for me to remove/install the dynamic damper and boots, you should consider before removing it. Then remove the inboard boot and dynamic damper from the driveshaft.

Inspect and clean everything, remove as much of the grease as possible, replace circlip or stopper ring if needed.

I don’t know why I put this picture, ha ha

Inspect and clean the inboard joint.

Remove the outboard joint boot.

Clean the outboard joint from grease. Inspect for faulty movement and wear, according to manual service, this part should not be disassemble.

Shopping time!

USE ONLY DRIVESHAFT GREASE

Clean up more.

Pack the outboard and inboard joint including inside the boots with the driveshaft/joint grease.

Recommended grease quantity, inboard joint –> 120-130 g (4.2-4.6 oz), outboard joint –> 90-100 g (3.2-3.5 oz).

Crimp the boot clamp tight, very very tight, be careful not to damage the boots  .  I carefully used a screw driver and pliers, but there is a special tool you can buy that is designed for these style clamps (come with the boots). Once again, very tight…

But, I prefer to use this type of clamps (need to buy separately), easy and more clamping force, cheap clamping plier like mine is good enough to securely clamp the boots.

Reinstallation is the reverse of removal, DON’T FORGET to put the cotter-pin back, the picture show the cotter-pin correct position. Just remember to tighten the suspension to the final torque in the loaded position. To do this, install suspension bolts loose (not even wrench tight), rest the car on ramps, and then tighten the bolts to their final torque.

Another tear has been wiped!

DIY : How to retrieve Honda Civic OBD1 CEL (Check Engine Light) codes

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The CEL (Check Engine Light) at the gauge cluster should turn on and then off after 2 seconds when the key is in ON, but suddenly, it’s never turn off!

Don’t panic, take a deep breath…locate the computer box (ECU) and service check connector on the passenger side, under the dash, behind the foot carpet.

With the key OFF, Connect the service check connector terminals with a jumper wire as shown below and turn the ignition switch on.

The CEL will come on like normal but will then begin to flash.

A LONG flash (1 second) is equal to 10
A SHORT flash (0.5 second) is equal to 1

for example, it will blink, —1sec1sec0.5sec0.5sec = Code : 22

Check your code here,

OBD1 CEL code List

0 ECU – ECU circuit problem
1 O2A – Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B – Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP – manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP – crank position sensor
5 MAP – manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT – water temperature sensor
7 TPS – throttle position sensor
8 TDC – top dead centre sensor
9 CYP – cylinder sensor
10 IAT – intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR – exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO – atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) – idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS – speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 Valve timing oil pressure switch
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu’s
38 Secondary vtec solenoid on JDM 3 stage D15B Vtec ECUs (P2J)
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF – lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF – crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor circuit
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)
67 Cat Converter
70 Automatic transmission problem
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 EGR Valve/Line
86 ECT sensor – Cooling System
90 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak
91 Fuel Tank pressure sensor
92 EVAP Solenoid/Valve/Vacuum Lines

Mine is 22, that mean, I have problem with valve timing oil pressure switch, yes, that absolutely true! One of my oil pressure switch 2P connector wire has been broken!

Need to rewiring! So, I cut out the connector. The blue/black wire is too short, so, I remove the black rubber that surrounding the wire for more space,

Soldering time!

Wrap with 4mm sumi tube for insolator.

Check the connectivity or leakage using Multimeter or any method that similar with.

Surrounding the connection with the liquid gasket.

I using clip connecter to reconnect wire from ECU and wire from oil pressure switch 2P connector.

Sorry for this disaster picture!

Wrap the  connection with isolator tape or some people call it ‘the black tape’

And wrap the entire wire.

Check the grounding with the car body.

Reset the ECU, make sure the ignition switch turn off, remove the back up fuse (7.5A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box for 10 secs. This procedure must be done after any troubleshooting.

So, no more unwanted light!

 

 

 

DIY : Honda Civic B-Series Engine Valves Clearance/Backlash Adjustment

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This is a very important maintenance. Do a valve adjustment at least once a year. Why do you need to adjust your valves clearance?

1. To make sure your valvetrain stays in good shape.

2. To gain power and to safe your fuel (this is the favorite quote!)

3. To decrease unwanted noise, tap, tap, tap, tappet!

4. Will greatly increase the life of your engine.

5. The engine will breath and exhale better.

The conventional means of adjusting valve actuation always require a small clearance to be left between the valve and its rocker or cam follower to allow for thermal expansion and wear.

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Valve should adjusted when the cylinder head temperature is less than 38°C (100°F).

Start by turning the front wheels to the left.  Lift the passenger side (Right-hand car) of your car with the jack,  this will give you adequate clearance to reach the main crank bolt. But if you want more room, then, remove the tire,  open the splash shield a little bit, this will give you the opportunity to check your left stopper rubber and oil pan condition. I use a long extension and 19mm socket to turn the crank, don’t turn it right now, wait until the next step when we need to set the crank at Top Dead Center (TDC).

Disconnect the negative battery cable (I covered up the terminal for safety reason)

Reminder : Make sure your cylinder head temperature is less than 38°C (100°F) and make sure the transmission in neutral before proceeding the next step. Locate your valve cover, remove the spark plug cover.

Remove all spark plug wires and the nuts circled in yellow (yellow?) follows the sequence from 1-8, and remove the other thing that attached to the valve cover (green circle). Now the valve cover is ready to come off, just wiggle it a little bit and it should pop right off.

The location of the adjustment screw pair for intake and exhaust side, the number also refer for the piston, no. 1 = piston no.1.

It will also make it easier to turn the motor over if you remove the spark plugs. Optional. TIP: Sometimes it’s easier to pull the plugs out of the block by using the plug wires to grab them after you’ve loosened them if you don’t have a spark plug socket. I used  16mm magnetic  socket.

If you remove the plugs, be sure to inspect them as they can tell you a lot about how the car is running. A light brown color indicates a perfect A/F mixture. White is lean likewise black indicates rich. If you see dampness or oil on it, then you are in trouble. Mine is functioning optimally.

Start by setting the no. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) by turning the crank pulley until the “up” arrows on the cam sprockets are facing up. Turn the crank pulley only counter clockwise!  If you over turn, don’t try to turn the motor backwards, just keep turning another 2 rotations of the crank until you get back to your TDC point.

It should be a white mark and or a notch on the crank pulley.

Try to look at the no. 1 piston spark plug hole, the piston should be at the very top, that is the meaning of  Top Dead Center (TDC) (Sorry for the unclear picture).

You need: a set of feeler gauges (use an angled feeler gauge), 10mm tappet adjusting wrench (this is the my home made tappet adjusting wrench, just a long socket combined with the flat metal, needed to hold the locknut in place and the flat head screw driver is for turning the adjustment screw on B16A, B16B or B18C motors. Not all the Honda’s engine needs this special tool. I have tried to only use normal long socket+extension, it works! But need more trial and error and time!).

Honda has a specific tappet adjusting wrench, the part numbers are 07MAA-PR70110 and 07MAA-PR70120. This is a special tool and also come with the “special” price, and of course my poor dealer didn’t have this one and even don’t know what it is!

Valve clearance specs for B16A,B16B and B18C:
INTAKE : 0.006″ – 0.007″ (0.15mm – 0.19mm)
EXHAUST : 0.007″ – 0.008″ (0.17mm – 0.21mm)

As you can imagine, the exhaust valves get hotter than the intake valves which explains their larger gap

Check the valve clearance for no. 1 piston. I slide the 0.010″ gauge between the rocker and the camshaft (in the gap below the cam lobe) for both sides (intake & exhaust), It slips through easily! I think the last owner probably never had a valve adjustment.

Loosen the locknut just a few degrees

Actually, I only using 3 gauges, 0.006″, 0.007″ and 0.008″. Hold the locknut using the tappet adjusting wrench, and turn the adjustment screw, for the intake side, until 0.006″ feeler gauge slide back and forth with a slight amount of drag and 0.007″ feeler gauge  shouldn’t. Same procedure for the exhaust side, .007 should slide in, but the .008 shouldn’t. Piece of nut.

After having the right clearance, hold the adjustment screw and tighten the locknut. Then torque locknut to 20 Nm (14 lb-ft) (be careful to not overtorque the nuts as they strip very easily!) and measure the clearance again. Torquing it will increase the clearance slightly, so keep this in mind when you’re adjusting them so you don’t have to keep repeating the process. Repeat adjustment if necessary.

After you are done with the 4 valves on no. 1 piston, move on to cylinder 3, 4, then 2, in that order. You will need to crank the motor to TDC for each of the cylinders you will be adjusting. Do the same process as before on each of the cylinders.

Repeat the process, double check, triple check, maybe you will find the clearance out a little bit even you have tightened the locknut, don’t worry, it’s normal, repeat the process until no adjustment is needed, I do about 5 times to get it correctly and precisely!

Consider replacing the valve cover gasket

Most of the re-installation process is the opposite of removal.

Has an idle problem after Valves Clearance/Backlash Adjustment? Idle roughly before engine warm up?

If you done correctly and precisely, it should be no problem, reset the ECU by pulling the 7.5A fuse in the fuse box under the hood about 10sec and drive around 100km (on/off), sometime ECU needs to “relearn” for the new setting.

Have a fun and enjoy with your achievement!

DIY : Honda Civic B-Series Engine Head/Valve Cover Gasket/Seal & Camshaft Cap/Seal/Plug Replacement

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Leaking around the passenger side front of the engine block? Lucky, I’m not the one , probability is, come from valve cover gasket, cam cap or VTEC solenoid gasket, this is common problem for B-Series engine that just exceed 100,000kms old just like mine (me 200,000kms!)

 I just done for my VTEC solenoid gasket problem, replace the valve cover gasket, spark plug seal and VTEC solenoid gasket is just straight forward job, but to replace camshaft cap is dangerous! Especially for VTEC  B-Series engine. The risk is, you could probably to stretching and breaking the camshaft holder bolt or make your cam unbalance and breaking the camshaft itself! Wow! High risk for a  small job, I bear all this in my mind, so, I better not to do any single mistake.

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Locate your valve cover, remove the spark plug cover.

Remove all spark plug wires (do not disconnect from the distributor cap)and the nuts circled in yellow (yellow?) follow the sequence from 1-8, and remove the other thing that attached to the valve cover (green circle). Now the valve cover is ready to come off, just wiggle it a little bit and it should pop right off.

This is the perfect time to check the timing belt condition.

Here we go! This is among the critical part, below is the loosening sequence, I recommend you to loosen the green circle bolts first. It is are good practice to put the crank at TDC, put the cams in with the key-way facing upward to prevent having the camshaft being placed at a full valve open situation causing undue tension. Wait! Before you loosen the bolts, please read the next sentences first…

The most critical part is, when you want to torque it back, I saw many people will break the bolt with their torque wrench, especially the 10mm bolt, even with 3/8″ Snap-On torque wrench which has never been out of spec and torque it properly! I think this is because they overtightened the bolt without realizing it, the torque wrench didn’t reach the target even after the specified torque because the tensile strength, come from the hardened bolt and soft aluminum thread that hold the bolt tight and the bolt itself have a high weakness point because of half thread bolt design, Specified torque : For 12mm bolt : 27 Nm (20 lb-ft) and for 10mm bolt : 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft), so, that’s just a small torque, almost hand tighten,  to prevent I come out with my drilling technique, I used this method, I named it “as know as good configuration technique'” I marking every single bolt, red for bolt, blue for base (camshaft holder plate), I just stretched it a little with flat screwdriver, depend on you, as long as there are markings that permanent or temporary permanent.

Then loosen the bolt with very gently that you can, start from green circle bolts to the sequence, remember, very gently, Leave all the bolts in the holes, and take off the camshaft holder plate and MAKE SURE with all bolts stick with the the original camshaft holder holes, if not, all that you done above is useless.

Next is to remove the passenger side camshaft holder, again, gently loosen this two 10mm bolts, I think, if we frequently practice this, we will become more gentlemen I said!

Don’t pry the camshaft holder using screw driver or something to take it out! Warning, or you will regret, a light tap with a rubber mallet (don’t use a regular hammer!) or wood stick should free these up.

Tadaa!

And this is the right time if you want to replace VTEC solenoid gasket. Clean and dry the matting surfaces.

Shopping time!

All the job above is to make sure this thing sit properly. This is metal cap wrapped with rubber. You also can use aftermarket seal make from aluminum and have a double or triple oil ring for more durability, for example from skunk2, blox, etc.

After the cleaning process, apply the liquid gasket, only the area shown below, just lightly…

Put the new cam cap. Properly install, I’m pretty sure you don’t want to repeat every step above.

But, in the end, I end up using Skunk2 Cam Seal

If you want to follow my technique, then, tighten all bolts using three step, first, finger tighten from bolt 1 to 14,

Second, tighten the bolts at the green point (invisible point, just estimated) from bolt 1 to 14,

Third, fully tighten the bolts to the blue point from bolt 1 to 14, if you want to use a torque wrench, there are also three step, for example for 10mm bolts, first : finger tighten, second : 6 Nm and lastly : 9.8 Nm. Good luck!

Install the valve cover gasket, make sure the valve cover gasket is seated securely in the corners of the recesses with no gap. Apply liquid gasket to the valve cover gasket at the eight corners of the recesses, just lightly. Actually, as long as the seal is soft we could reuse them.

Install everything back, just the opposite of removal. Make sure you tighten the valve cover bolts to about 8ft lbs, and follow the sequences, for me, hand tighten is just OK, check the engine oil, refill if needed, check that all tubes, hoses, cables and connectors are installed correctly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil or to turn on the engine, to make sure the liquid gasket is completely dry.

Inspect the valve cover for any oil leaks, and inspect around the cam seal as well. Clean off the area around the cam seal, and inspect later on to see if your oil leakage has stopped. Observe the camshaft cap end over the next few days of normal engine running. If there is a slight leak , you can run a bit of sealant around the end to seal it up. Otherwise do this DIY again and get it right .

Another leaking point is terminated!

Honda Civic SR4/SR3 EG9/EG6 B16A MUGEN Cat-back Exhaust System 1st Generation

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This is the rarest item that I get from my ‘runner’, Mugen cat-back exhaust eystem 1st generation for my car, 2.25″ piping, JASMA tag, s-flow type muffler for street perfomance in very good condition!

Let exhaust exit freely will increase the power, isn’t true? There is something that need to consider too, like, back pressure, upgrade or you will downgrade your exhaust system, but I believe at Mugen R&D department.

Exhaust piping diameter is a crucial part in the exhaust system. For those with 1600cc engines and below, stick with anything less than 2.0″ except if you had extensive jobs on the engine such as higher compression pistons or performance camshaft upgrades. For stock VTEC or MIVEC 1600cc and above, around 2.0″ to 2.25″ is acceptable. Some people even use 2.5″ on stock VTEC but the result is poor at lower rpm because the exhaust gas have less velocity to travel. Apart from the diameter, the piping route is also important. Straight pipes are not really advisable for street because they tend to get in the way when you’re running on a road bump. It is annoying and you will get scratches on the bottom of the pipe, or worse bent pipes. Piping that follows the original route is the best. While it gives you stock appearance, many people claim that it gives better low end to midrange power compare to straight piping. While weak at low end, straight piping somehow tend to give better acceleration power because exhaust gas gets out easily because of the shorter pipe compare to stock. Source : http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=251308

Made from only the highest grade polished 304 stainless steel!

From Mugen catalog,

This is my old system, 2.0″ piping, time to say goodbye…

Catalyst converter deleted (de-cat)! Catalyst converters are the biggest restriction to the exhaust gas flow. Removing it will definitely release some more power, but it is bad for environment.

My new system, fits! what the beautiful bend!

Muffler is more to cosmetic rather than performance. There is minimal difference in power output if we compare straight-thru type muffler (also known as N1 type) with s-flow type muffler (which usually have big resonator box). The later is seemed to be more preferable for street usage because more silent, thus giving more pleasant driving experience especially while in cruising mode. Personally, I would recommend Tanabe s-flow like the G-Medallion series because they are very silent when idling and cruising. This avoids attention from the authority. If you are going for N1 type, make sure it is made of good quality. Avoid imitations, they are widely sold by Wei Yip (tidak tipu customer) at surprisingly cheap price. Good exhaust doesn’t come cheap but they are worth it. Try to spend some time to go to ‘kedai potong’ and try look for used branded exhaust. They are worth it. Other than that, exhaust with JASMA tag (not JASMA brand) should be good enough for street. From my experience and observations, JASMA approved exhaust tend to be quiet, unless the used mufflers are already running out of fiber. If your setup is still noisy, it is advisable to install a resonator (bullet silencer) in the middle. Source : http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=251308

Even I didn’t do dyno test, but I could feel, the sound and the power, gentle sound at the low RPM (1-4K), sporty sound without being too loud or raspy at the high RPM (5-7K), silent but deadly! overall sound is just amazing though.