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Posts Tagged Boots

DIY : Honda Civic 1987-2000 Crack Steering Boot/Dust Seal Replacement

Posted in My Automotive Life | No Comments »

 I replace this dust seal before, using the OEM Honda, but, I think it is not durable as original, I mean the old one, this is a little ‘bit disappointed’…

Check for the leaking, if your power steering reservoir runs low, no matter how frequently you top up the fluid, you should check entire power steering system, there must be leakage somewhere. Check the steering gearbox (steering rack system), pump, reservoir, pump outlet line (high pressure), low pressure hoses and pipe. Click here if you want to rebuild the entire steering rack.

Remove the cotton pin.

I highly recommend you to using ball joint remover instead of using hammer or etc.

Marking the alignment point with the tape to make sure the wheel alignment didn’t goes so far, I also note the threads, remove the boot band and the tube clamp.

Remove the tie-rod end, it’s tough and stubborn sometime…

Remove the crack dust seal. It’s a good time to re-grease  rack end ball joint and steering rack gear, my old grease is melting, should put the high temp grease…

Insert the new dust seal, reassembly all back together using reverse step.

This is the boring maintenance that I ever do….

DIY : Honda Civic B-Series Driveshaft / CV (constant velocity) / Drive Axle Boots and Grease Replacement

Posted in My Automotive Life | 3 Comments »

What you’re aspect from the moving parts? Although the CV joints are EXTREMELY tough, but the rubber cover that protects the drive axle joint, it’s also known as the CV (constant velocity) boot, is not. The boots will tear (like mine) or crack over time, and the grease that the boots hold inside will leak out. The CV joint will then be exposed to dirt, moisture and other debris, so you can replace them before damage is done to the more expensive CV joint. Remember CV joints also are EXTREMELY expensive!

The boots will be the indicator for you to service the CV, time by time, heat by heat, the grease itself will degrade, now it’s time to inspect and refresh!

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Since this job requires quite a bit of disassembly, you may want to take advantage of the opportunity and change out your front brake service or do front suspension & sway bar maintenance (Bushing replacement)

Raise both front wheels off the ground and secure car with jack stands . Remove wheel.

Raise the locking tap on the spindle nut and remove it. I have 2 method to remove the high torque spindle nut:

1. The easier way, use the impact gun! Or machine gun! (Just Kidding), if you didn’t have any, just go nearby workshop, just loosen it, not to remove! Then hand tight it with the breaker bar, drive slowly to your home and remove it with the breaker bar.

2. Using fully of your superman power with the breaker bar and socket extension to remove! Make sure your wheel still on the car (with the the center cap remove if you have any) and your car on the ground and ask your friend or neighbor to push the brakes to lock the rotor from spinning.


Remove damper fork bolt,

To remove the Honda LCA ball joint, I highly recommend you to using ball joint remover, that make your life easy, because Honda ball joint is superior tight, some people may prefer use hammer or ‘jack technique’ .

Pry the driveshaft assembly with a screwdriver as shown to force the set ring at the driveshaft end past the groove.

Pull the inboard joint and remove the driveshaft and CV joint from the differential case as an assembly.

– With Intermediate Shaft:

Remove the right driveshaft from the bearing support by tapping the inboard joint of the driveshaft with a plastic hammer.


1. Do not pull on the driveshaft, as the CV joint may come apart.

2. Use care when prying out the assembly and pull it straight to avoid damaging the differential oil seal.

Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer.

This is the best time to check the differential oil seal for any wear.

This is the main part of the driveshaft, I only remove the driver side (right hand drive), the passenger side is quite similar, except its link with the intermediate shaft that link to the gearbox.

The leaking point at the outboard joint boot close up.

Cut out all the boots band (red dashed line).

Remove the inboard joint and roller.

Remove the circlip (using circlip remover or anything that suitable), according to the manual service, it’s a good practice to install everything back in their original positions, mark the spider and driveshaft then remove the spider using a commercially available bearing remover, but I am just using plastic hammer and its work. It’s hard to remove the stopper ring, the only reason I remove it, is easier for me to remove/install the dynamic damper and boots, you should consider before removing it. Then remove the inboard boot and dynamic damper from the driveshaft.

Inspect and clean everything, remove as much of the grease as possible, replace circlip or stopper ring if needed.

I don’t know why I put this picture, ha ha

Inspect and clean the inboard joint.

Remove the outboard joint boot.

Clean the outboard joint from grease. Inspect for faulty movement and wear, according to manual service, this part should not be disassemble.

Shopping time!


Clean up more.

Pack the outboard and inboard joint including inside the boots with the driveshaft/joint grease.

Recommended grease quantity, inboard joint –> 120-130 g (4.2-4.6 oz), outboard joint –> 90-100 g (3.2-3.5 oz).

Crimp the boot clamp tight, very very tight, be careful not to damage the boots  .  I carefully used a screw driver and pliers, but there is a special tool you can buy that is designed for these style clamps (come with the boots). Once again, very tight…

But, I prefer to use this type of clamps (need to buy separately), easy and more clamping force, cheap clamping plier like mine is good enough to securely clamp the boots.

Reinstallation is the reverse of removal, DON’T FORGET to put the cotter-pin back, the picture show the cotter-pin correct position. Just remember to tighten the suspension to the final torque in the loaded position. To do this, install suspension bolts loose (not even wrench tight), rest the car on ramps, and then tighten the bolts to their final torque.

Another tear has been wiped!

DIY : Honda Civic 1992-1995 Steering Rack Rebuild/Repair and Hose Replace

Posted in My Automotive Life | 1 Comment »

For an introduction, I would to say, this is not “how to do” page, this is the way I do, I strongly recommend you to read the factory service manual in the first place.

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

I think this is a normal issue for ‘Old Timer Car’, steering rack and hose leakage, most people prefer to replace steering rack take from junkyard, and for those who have extra money would buy entire set of steering rack! But, I decide to repair it, for two reason, if I replace with 2nd hand, how long it will longer be? I don’t know detail about the condition, and 2nd I didn’t have budget to buy new set .

Because this page is about to repair the rack, so, I skip the steering rack removal step,

If your power steering reservoir runs low, no matter how frequently you top up the fluid, you should check entire power steering system, there must be leakage somewhere. Check the steering gearbox (steering rack system), pump, reservoir, pump outlet line (high pressure), low pressure hoses and pipe.

1st step, of course, remove your steering rack from your car.

The motivation : The best repairing is done by owner himself (with knowledge and proper tools)

firstly, you need to understand the entire system work (can read from factory service manual or the Internet). Need to know each part of steering rack, and properly disassemble.

This is the step that I use to…

1. Remove the cylinder pipe.

2. Remove the tie-rod assembly (marking the original position).

3. Remove the boot bands and tube clamps. Pull  the dust seals at the ends of the gearbox.

4. Remove the rack end ball joint. (there have special tool to remove this, but I only used 2 big adjustable wrench)

5.  Mark original position of locknut and rack guide screw at the gear housing for easy installation.  Loosen the rack screw locknut and remove the rack guide screw.

6. Remove the spring and rack guide from the gear housing.

7. Remove the control valve unit from the gearbox.

8. Remove the retaining ring from the cylinder using a narrow screw driver.

9. Remove the seal holder and steering rack from the cylinder housing.

So, this is all about to disassemble part,

now we’re going to main dish, replacing the seal, time to go men shopping!

Easy part – Install new seals at seals holder

Install the new seal at the piston. Carefully pry the old piston seal ring and O-ring out off the rack. To install the new one is easy because it’s elastic characteristic, but, be-careful not to extend the piston seal ring too much, just slightly put into the piston curve and push a little bit.

Next is to replace valve unit valve oil seal and seal rings (I buy this set separately actually).  First, removing the pinion shaft from valve housing by tapping it to the floor (refer the picture for the position, not a proper technique, but it work! Just a little force is a good enough)

Removing the upper valve oil seal and the ball bearing that stick in the housing.

To ‘pop’ it out, I just using 17mm socket and hammer. Check for the worn bearing, replace if need.

Next is to removing the circlip.

It will be easy if you have circlip removal, if not…well, need to be more creative with the available tools.

Then, remove the another ball bearing, like usual, I will do this primitive method. Check for the worn bearing, replace if need.

VERY GENTLY replace all four pinion shaft sleeve seal rings, insert using bare fingers…

Replace lower valve oil seal.

Then install back the ball bearing using the valve housing itself and hammer. (Refer the picture)

Done for the replacement parts.

Install back the pinion shaft. The seal rings expand outward, so, set each ring in the housing very carefully and gently…

After fully install it, tap the shaft a little bit using hammer to make sure the ball bearing sit on the position.

I think, the hard part (not really hard actually) is to install back new cylinder packing A and backup ring, again, it will be easy if you have a special tool (that’s why it called special) – handle driver and packing end remover. To pull out the useless (this is the source of leak) old cylinder packing A and backup ring, I use suitable socket (I think I used 18mm) and extension like picture below.

To install new seals, please refer to Figure 1.0, to make sure the seals seat properly,

I used some stick as gauge, mark from Point A (Backup Ring End Housing)  to Point B (Cylinder End) then to Point C (width of cylinder packing A+ backup ring + piston ). Insert properly cylinder packing A and backup ring onto the steering rack, coat the steering rack with power steering fluid, and insert it in the cylinder, then use stick to measure, until Cylinder End reach the Point C, after that, DON’T TAKE OUT STEERING RACK FROM CYLINDER ANYMORE, it will ruin the seals. The next step,

1. Install the seal holder on the steering rack steering rack.

2. Install the retaining ring on the cylinder.

3. Install new O-ring on the gear housing refresh all grease part. Be sure to apply the liquid gasket to the mating face evenly (0.5 – 1.5 g/0.018 – 0.053 oz) not to let it to drop inside the housing. Carefully install the control valve unit on the gear housing.

4. Coat the rack guide with grease, install with sequence, rack guide, spring, pressure plate, rack guide screw and locknut.

5. Tighten the rack guide screw until it compresses the spring and seat again the rack guide, and then loosen it.

6. Retighten it using the marking before or to 5 N·m (0.5 kg·m, 3.6 lb·ft), back it off about 25° then install the locknut on the rack guide screw.

7. Tighten locknut while holding the rack guide screw.

8. Install the cylinder pipe. Use pipe thread seal tape to make sure no leaking from the pipe joint.

9. Install the new lock washer in the groove in the steering rack.

10. Hold the steering rack with a wrench and tighten the rack end to 55 N·m (5.5 kg·m, 40 lb·ft)

11. After tightening the rack end, stake the four section of lock washer.

12. Refresh all grease, install the dust seals with the boot bands and tube clamps, then install the air hose.

13. Reassembly the tie-rod end. Replace ball joint boot with the new one, Pack the interior of the boot and lip with the grease, wipe the grease off the sliding surface of the ball pin, then pack the lower area with fresh grease.

14. Install back your steering rack properly.

I also found there are leaking areas at the reservoir tank hose, the hose becomes hard compare to the new one, so, I replace it both of them.

Fill the reservoir tank with the new GENUINE HONDA power steering fluid to the upper level mark. Start the engine and run it at fast idle, and then turn the steering from lock-to-lock several times to bleed air from the system. Recheck the fluid level and add some if necessary. DO NOT FILL THE RESERVOIR BEYOND THE UPPER LEVER.

Do the alignment. I run about 3000km, feel smooth, handling improve and what important is, no leaking anymore!