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Posts Tagged Ferio

DIY : Honda Civic/Integra B-Series Thermostat Replacement & IACV/Throttle Body Coolant Bypass

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I didn’t have any problem with my thermostat, just do the preventive maintenance, it is something very important that you need to prevent, overheating.  The thermostat is the very important cooling system component,  the main function is to maintain the engine operating temperature, not too cool and not too hot, just simply perfect temperature, like the adjustable hot-cold shower knob, in the cold morning, it will rise the minimum opening temperature quickly (to prevent poor gas mileage, fouled O² sensors, clogged exhaust systems and losing power),  to know how it works, watch the video below.

And this is how cooling system works.

And I have no idea why people cut off the thermostat and bypass the radiator fan (mean the coolant always circulate and the fan will always on) for street car, even for the racing car this modified is only a little bit few.

First, make sure the engine is cold…remove the intake and some wiring to get more access and space.

Prepare some reservoir container under the thermostat housing to make sure the coolant do not spill everywhere (bad for environment and animal), another option is to drain the coolant a little from radiator tank.  Two bolts that need to remove, this one and…

this one.

Take out the thermostat housing, bend the hose to prevent coolant spill, will lose some coolant for sure.

Comparison.

Clean the thermostat housing, then install the new one, don’t worry, there are the mechanism that prevent you from misplace.

I also take this chance to replace the old tired-rubber-hose-that-cannot-withstand-with-the-pressure-anymore with the silicon one, how do I know? Here the picture at the cold temperature.

and here the picture after certain boiling point, scare right? Poom!

Comparison. Silicon vs. stock.

And also the others hose…(please ignore the missing throttle body), and if you look more closer, you will notice that I also do some bypass, the hose that go through throttle body, to cool the intake manifold a little bit. Even wonder why the manufacture design this way? The only reason that I could think is to warm up the throttle body during the winter or very very cold climate to prevent the throttle body butterfly from stuck, but there is not the problem in my country (Malaysia) with benefits from a tropical climate with high temperatures and high humidity throughout the year. And you from the winter sonata country, I didn’t recommend this mod. And for  IACV line, I didn’t really get why…someone? I think for ‘idle’ reason…but, so far, I didn’t have any problem with my idle.

Install everything back in the reverse order of removal. Open the radiator cap and pour coolant into the radiator up to the base of the filler neck, squeeze the radiator hose a little to let the bubbles come out of the top of the radiator.

To remove the bubbles, loosen the bleed bolt (locate under distributor for B-series, but, didn’t  have for type-r series), tighten it again when coolant comes out in a steady stream with no bubbles.

Refill the radiator to the base of the filler neck. Put the cap on the radiator and tighten it only to the first stop (to give a little pressure for fast warm up, or the other method is to rise up the rpm). start the engine and let it run until it warms up (the radiator cooling fan comes on at least twice), that mean, the coolant begins to circulate.

Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator, add coolant if needed, install the radiator cap and tighten it fully.

Fill the reservoir to the MAX mark and keep checking the coolant levels.

The perfect cooler your car, the more cooler you are 

DIY : Honda Civic 1987-2000 Front Brake Calipers/Pistons Maintenance/rebuild

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Well…safety is always the first, this is the part and mechanism that make sure your life is under safety term when you drive your machine, but you also need to make sure this mechanism is safety to use, especially when the mileages is beyond 100 000km, inspection is crucial…

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Remove the banjo bolt and disconnect the brake hose from caliper, don’t worry about brake fluid, after sometime brake fluid will stop flowing. It’s a good idea to have something to catch the excess brake fluid that will drain from the lines. For example, half of empty mineral bottle.

Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the caliper bracket bolts (if you want to service and paint your caliper bracket).

Wow! 

Apply compressed air to the caliper fluid inlet to get the piston out, be-careful, make sure your fingers in safety place. For cushioning, place wooden piece or rag in front of piston.

Inspection…

Result : Need to replace the piston, piston seal and piston boot.

Comparison between old and new piston, piston seal and piston boot.

Clean the cylinder groove and all parts as clean as you can!

Painting time!

Install the new piston seal.

This is the tricky part, to install piston with the piston boot in the cylinder. Firstly, install the boot onto the piston with the correct position.

Next, hmm, the picture will tell you more…

Slightly and slowly insert the outer boot lip in the cylinder groove, corner by corner using fingers and a small flat-head screwdriver (be-careful, you may tear the boot) .

Yeah, passion is need here…

Done!

Make sure the boot in the right place.

Reassembly all back together using reverse step, re-grease the caliper pin and install the new brake pads.

Hmm, satisfy enough…

Make the bleeding proces. Now, it’s time to rolling again!

DIY : 92-95 Honda Civic Fuel Filter Replacement

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Someone maybe wonder, “fuel filter? I never thought that thing ever exist in my car!”, yes, that thing is not famous as oil filter or air filter, but equivalent important too,  year after year, there can be a fair amount of rust and debris in the fuel tank, some come from the time when you adding fuel, and fuel filter will plugged and the fuel pressure will drop as well, and that’s not sound good right? The filter should be replaced every 2 years or 40 000 km, whichever come first, and it’s a just cheap and simple preventative maintenance.

Disconnected the negative cable from the battery negative terminal.

Put rag or shop towel under and around the fuel filter, hold the banjo bolt with 17mm wrench and remove the service bolt with 12mm wrench, this procedure is to relive fuel pressure.

Remove the banjo bolt and fuel feed pipe from the filter. Remove the fuel filter clamp by removing the clamping bolt (blue circle – refer above picture).

Come from the old filter, this is the reason why…

New fuel filter, come with the washer, install everything back in the reverse order of removal, and done.

DIY : 92-95 Honda Civic Nippondenso Alternator Whining & Carbon Brush & Bearing Replacement

Posted in My Automotive Life | 6 Comments »

When I turn on all heavy load, I mean amp load (air-conditioner, headlights (HI), fog lights, audio system, etc.) the alternator will start make whining noise like my blander machine. Inspection & suspecting;

1. I measure the battery voltage (engine at the normal operating temperature), seem normal, between 13.9 – 15.1 Voltage, depend on the load as long as it doesn’t exceed and below the range (to improve fuel economy, the alternator control system within the PGM-FI ECU changes the voltage generated at the alternator in accordance with the driving conditions). That mean my battery is under charge and voltage regulator is functioning.

2. I didn’t suspect the bearing, worn bearing will whining all the time.

3. Check the belt condition and belt deflection (5-7mm), seem OK.

4. Luckily, I have the spare alternator, take from the car graveyard, make the replacement, no more whining anymore! So, that’s mean, my alternator almost at the dead end, the whining come from electrical noise, the replacement is essential.

This is the step for alternator replacement, disconnect the cable from the battery negative (-) terminal and disconnect the alternator connector from the alternator. Remove the terminal nut and the white wire from the B terminal.

Also, don’t forget to dis-clip the white cable that attach to the alternator body.

Alternative – Make more work space by dis-clip the wire connectors. You will see clearly the adjusting nut.

Remove the adjusting nut and then remove adjusting bolt.

Jack stand the car, remove the left tire and under the alternator, there is alternator through bolt, remove it.

Loosen the belt by moving the alternator and then, remove it. Then carefully take out the alternator.

If you just want to make the new alternator replacement, just install everything back in the reverse order of removal, make sure everything in their place, and make the belting adjustment by adjusting the alternator adjusting bolt. But in my case, I need to refreshing my used alternator by cleaning, replace the bearing and the carbon brush.

At the alternator end cover, remove everything in the blue circle (This is how I use to short my text)

And again. Then remove the voltage regulator, diode and brush holder.

Again…

Inspect the slip rings, not in the bad condition…

Remove the pulley locknut (it is easy if you have an impact wrench/gun) and remove the pulley.

Loosen the rear housing (I used flat screw driver) from drive end housing.

Knock a little bit to loosen the housing.

Tap down the rotor shaft at the solid surface to split the housing, be careful, not too much. I don’t know what to call this method, but it’s work!

Remove the rotor by using the bearing puller.

Polishing the slip rings using small grits sand paper.

Check the continuity between the slip rings and no continuity between slip rings and the rotor or rotor shaft.

New set of carbon brush, make by TRIS Inc. , carbon brushes specialist company from Japan.

The old one still could be use, as long as you could see the company logo , but it is a good practice to replace alternator carbon brush that run over than 200 000 km.

Alternator brushes length : Standard : 10.5mm, service limit : 5.5mm.

Soldering set.

De-soldering.

Alternator brushes length : Standard : 10.5mm

Soldering.

Remove the bearing retainer.

This is how I remove the front bearing, using suitable socket, and hammer it out.

Comparison with the old and the new bearing (KOYO 437 vs NSK 817-101DG8B).

The better procedure to install the bearing is using the press machine.

Install back the bearing retainer.

Comparison with the old and the new bearing (NSK 399 vs NSK 6202DW).

Use the same method from the previous one to remove the old bearing, be careful with the spacer ring.

In my case I am using 27 deep length socket size.

The better procedure to install the bearing is using the press machine.

Insert back the rotor into the big and small bearing housing using hand force.

Using back 27 deep length socket size to cover the slip rings.

Hammer down the rotor shaft until the two halves close together and tighten the four nuts to fasten the casing together.

Install everything back in the reverse order of removal, make sure everything in their place, easy right?

Great link : http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/alternatorgeneratortheory.htm ,

http://www.eham.net/articles/15113 , http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182896-1.html

DIY : 92-95 Honda Civic Power Steering Pump Overhaul/Rebuild

Posted in My Automotive Life | 2 Comments »

High pitched whine and leaking at the power steering pump? That only means shaft bearing failure and seals leak. No more wonder anymore, time to rebuild!

Detached power steering pump reservoir tank from bracket and raise it, cover up anything with rag, towel or paper that have probability of contact with oil.

Disconnected outlet hose by remove two bolts (red circle) and undo the clamp on the inlet hose (green circle).

Pinch the inlet hose and remove inlet hose from the pump the put the end of hose into the bottle to drain the oil.

To make your life easier, crack open a few degree (about 5 degree) pump cover bolts (green circle), it’s better to do now than later (after pump out). Remove the belt by loosening adjusting bolt (red circle) and remove the special bolts (black & white circle).

Remove the pump from the engine.

So, this the power steering pump repair kit and NTN bearing.

Remove the pulley by remove the pulley nut. Warning: Pulley nut has left-hand threads, that mean, remove the nut by clockwise. And the nut is PRETTY HARD to remove.

Remove the control valve cap by removing three flange bolts (green circle).

Remove the control valve spring, control valve and O-ring (replace).

Check for wear, burrs, and other damage to the edges of the grooves in the valve.

Remove the inlet joint and O-ring (replace).

Remove the pump cover and O-ring (replace).

Then remove all the inner pieces, remembering how they were placed.

Remove the circlip,

then remove the drive shaft assembly from the pump housing using a hammer, knock carefully at the drive shaft end.

For me, even the bearing still play good (no noisy or excessive play), I will replace it, since it make over 4000 times marathon running and also for peace in mind. Remove by using hammer, better big hammer, don’t be shy, it will pop out, I mean, POP! Then install the new bearing (the quality one please), the plastic side should be facing the threads. And of course, the better procedure is using the press machine.

Install the new oil seal in the pump housing by hand,

then install the pump seal spacer.

Install the pump driver shaft assembly, using hammer and impact deep socket that fit enough into inner diameter, or you will break the plastic cover, and honestly, it will better if you could use the socket that really fit the outer diameter (maybe around 27mm socket that I didn’t have), but the housing is not so tight, hammer it slowly, and of course, once again, the better procedure is using the press machine.

Until the bearing is completely below the circlip groove.

Install the circlip with its tapered side facing out.

Coat the side plate grooves with power steering fluid then insert new O-rings so on for the pump cover.

Install the preload spring and the tallest roller in the pump housing,

set the side plate over the tallest roller and install it on the pump housing with ‘O’ mark facing upward then insert the shortest roller.

Assemble pump rotor to the drive shaft with the ‘O’ mark facing upward, set the 10 vanes in the grooves in the rotor, be sure that round end of the vanes is in contact with the sliding surface of the cam ring.

Set the pump cam ring over the two rollers (don’t worry, the holes have a different diameter) with the ‘O’ mark facing upward.

Align the projection on the pump housing and the projection on the pump cover (blue oval) and tighten the four bolts.

Install the control valve in the reverse order of removal.

Install back the pulley and done!

Replace the outlet hose O-ring.

Install everything back in the reverse order of removal, make sure everything in their place, if there are cracks or any damage evident on the belt, replace it with a new one, turn the adjusting bolts to get the proper belt tension, then re-tighten two special bolts.

Fill the reservoir tank with the new GENUINE HONDA power steering fluid to the upper level mark. Start the engine and run it at fast idle, and then turn the steering from lock-to-lock several times to bleed air from the system. Recheck the fluid level and add some if necessary. DO NOT FILL THE RESERVOIR BEYOND THE UPPER LEVER. Stop the engine and recheck the reflection of the belt, adjusting back if necessary.

Happy no power steering pump leaking days!