Official Raz Veinz Blogsite

I think, I frequently write but leaking oil, yeah, this is another story…

Once upon a time, the old O-Ring become very old until he didn’t care about what goes around anymore…

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Some oily below the distributor? Sometime, this old O-Ring playing tricks on you, until you thought, your head is leaking! (I mean, your engine head). There will be oil around the corner, where the block mate with the head, this is good replacement after you replacing the camshaft plug and VTEC solenoid gasket.

This procedure is specifically for Honda Tec distributor, other brand may have same or different procedure. So, the first step is to remove the 2-P connector from the distributor.

I didn’t remove the spark plug cables for easy installation. Remove three distributor cap bolts.

Marking the related position between distributor and cylinder head, to make sure the ignition timing didn’t out of spec during installation.

Then, remove the distributor mounting bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head. As you could see the picture below, where is the leaking point and O-Ring that responsible for this problem location (external leak). If you just want to change this O-Ring only, ignore the entire procedure below, just make sure everything is clean and install the new O-Ring.

The consequence.

To prevent 180° out of time when install back the distributor end, mark the center shaft and distributor end. Note : The lugs on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft are both offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180° out of time.

Turn circlip remove point to the pin hole, flat screw driver is good enough to remove this circlip.

Turn the distributor ignition rotor until you see the screw that hold the rotor, remove the ignition rotor and leak cover.

Remove three screws (cream color circle) that hold the ignition control module (ICM), TDC/CKP/CYP sensors and two screws (black color circle) that hold the ignition coil.

Remove the wires grommet.

Optional : Remove the two last TDC/CKP/CYP sensors for more work space. TheTDC/CKP/CYP sensors have a small bump on the bottom that fits into corresponding holes in the distributor case so that the sensors will only fit in one place and can’t be adjusted.

My oil seal seem ok, there’s no major leak, but, it’s a good practice to change it since it run over 100k.

This is what the entire system look like.

Pull out the oil seal using the flat screw driver, it should be easy.

Cleaning time! I clean using silicone spray. Before:

After:

There are 2 type OEM Honda distributor O-Ring common type. The dealer tell me that OEM Honda distributor O-Ring make from viton material, that why the price is high that normal rubber type (about 4 times!).

Comparison.

Install the new oil seal, make sure the seal seat properly, I using 14mm socket to slowly push it down.

Install back all together reverse of removal, install the new O-Ring, and don’t forget the marking points that I mentioned before or your engine won’t start.

Install the distributor on the cylinder head,  don’t forget the ignition timing marking point! That all, wait for the next chapter of the leaking oil story (I hope not!).

So, this is time for ‘big buddy’, main rear trailing arm bushing, stress by stress, time by time, he need retirement…

Long time ago, Honda doesn’t supply trailing arm bushing separately, they sell entirely trailing arm set! When need to replace? Should check it after 50 000km, but it depend on how you handle your car, modification and the road condition. These bushings are responsible for rear stability, so make sure it always takes a good responsible!

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Some prefer to use Honda/Acura trailing arm bushing removal/extractor (refer the picture below), the benefits is, only need to remove several bolts and you can remove and replace the bushing with the trailing arm still in the car, save your time, the con is, this special tool is a little bit expensive and you need to wait for a long time to use this secret weapon again, except you are full-time car mechanic. And other extremely technique is, to used hammer! I witness this on YouTube. But I prefer to remove entirely trailing arm and take to the machine shop to press the bush.

This schematic take from service manual show where exactly the trailing arm doing the job, the biggest and most powerful arm! Show also the torque spec.

Honestly, this maintenance is very easy and straight forward job, our mission is to remove/deattach anything that connects/attach the trailing arm to the body, necessary only, take the first step, remove the caliper shield.

And next is to remove the parking brake cable, remove the lock pin, clevis pin and clip.

Next step is to remove the brake caliper, only two caliper bracket bolts (orange circle), that all.

Remove any bolt that attach brake hose at the trailing arm.

Remove the compensator arm, one side bolt only…I remove bolt that connect compensator arm to the body, yeah, this is sure will mess with the toe alignment, but it more easier to remove, because the are lot of work space for me. Just do the marking point.

Then, remove the upper arm self-locking bolt.

Remove the trailing arm bushing bolts.

Toing! Remove parking brake cable bolt that attaches to the trailing arm.

And lastly, remove the lower arm self-locking bolt. Easy and straight forward right? Like my texts.

Men shopping time! I recommend you to measure your original old bushing diameter, there are two type of diameter for OEM Honda,

The small diameter bushing is part number 52385-SR3-000. It’s outside diameter is 3.170 inches (80.52mm)

The large diameter bushing is part number 52385-SK7-N02. It’s outside diameter is 3.352 inches (85.14mm)

Goodbye old buddy, take a deep rest, please don’t show your sadness face to me.

The complete trailing arm set.

The oldest one is more thick than the new one, I wonder why Honda reduce it size. From physically and design, the old one look like more rigid and will not allow minor movement, the new one is more flexibility and maybe didn’t keep hard stress and more comfort riding, maybe less for duration and durability, who’s know? There is one another  important factor to consider, the material it self. So, time will speak…

But, there a are another option, aftermarket part! This text I copy from my previous post –> There are many topic people around the world discuss about bushing, but what take my attention is, which one material is better, OEM rubber or aftermarket polyurethane (PU)? For my opinion, each other have their own advantage and disadvantage, polyurethane will give extremely durable, maintain steering geometry, enhance handling & ride characteristic and many more than stock rubber, but it will cost you twice or tree! Two friend of mine change fully bushing to polyurethane and they say there is no problem, the only problem is price,  I also read about people experience with  PU, almost say, it’s too hard for daily driving or family car, and sometime make squeaking noise, and have to re-grease with special grease, there are many brand out there, my friend recommend me Superpro bushing, I also read people choose hard rubber than poly and OEM rubber, for me OEM rubber bush is always fine,  it depend on what your car for, mine is only for daily and street driving, so, I will stick with OEM rubber bush.<– End of copy

Also, you have to consider, about total motion that a suspension has to move through!

Before pressing, measure and remember the correct position (which side is above and below) of the old one. Some prefer to mark when the arm still in the car, on the wheels and sitting on the ground if you lowered the car, to prevent constant pre-load twist that could lead to early breakage because of the bush will twist a little degree from the standard setting, that the great point, but for me, I need to consider about my coilover, how much I lowered my car, road condition (bump and crack), the passengers, the motion of cornering and the bush design it self to handle all the motion, because it dynamically, so I will stick with the natural position.

This is the great chance if you want to replace the compensator arm.

After installing the new one.

Reassembly all back together using reverse step, install the compensator arm bolts close the the the original position (toe adjustment), but, I highly recommend you to do wheel alignment, because wear bush alignment of cause not to match the new one. This procedure also could be use to converted from drum brake to disk brake, just replace the hand brake cable.

After test drive : Improve hard braking, cornering and can handle bumping road better.

I snap this picture after I do alignment and run for 100km, while the car still on the wheels, sitting on the ground and no driver or passenger load, just want to check the position of my trailing arm bush.

The result, almost the same position when the trailing arm still hanging.

This is where all the main contents goes, either text, animation, images, sound or video, it’s simple to create the main body layout, but a little bit tricky, it should editable, flexible and attractive.

I assume you read my previous  entry

The coding and structure is similar to Header Section  just with a little bit modification, here the CCS code, under the  new title,

/******************************/
/*  MAIN BODY SECTION  */
/******************************/

.Main-body {
    width:664px;
    text-align: left;
    margin: auto;
}

.Contents {
    width:600px;
    top: 230px;
    text-align: justify;
    background-image: url(../Image/Paper.png);
    background-attachment: scroll;
    background-repeat: repeat;    
    font-family: Georgia, “Times New Roman”, Times, serif;
    font-size: 12px;
    line-height: 20px;
    padding: 30px 30px 30px 50px;
    margin: 0 auto auto -15px;
    z-index: 1;
}

Note :

At the margin, I put a -15px for margin-left to adjust the background image position.

background-attachment: – The background-attachment property sets whether a background image is fixed or scrolls with the rest of the page.

background-repeat: - refer to my last CSS entry for more details

padding: – The padding shorthand property sets all the padding properties in one declaration. This property can have from one to four values. Example,

End Note :

And this is the HTML code,

<!– (Main Body) –>

<div class=”Main-body”>
<div style=”position:absolute;”>
<!– TemplateBeginEditable name=”Contents” –>
  <p>In progress, coming soon..</p>
  <!– TemplateEndEditable –></div>
</div>

<!– (Main Body End) –>

To text in, I used MS Office or etc., and paste in the Contents (do not paste at the coding) it’s better.

I think, that’s all for the basic main body, see you in the next entry.

For better handling and stylish, this upgrade is the most, why I choose MOMO? because Honda choose them! MOMO steering wheel is the standard accessories for Honda NSX, Integra DC2/DC5 and Civic EK9 Type-R! The  steering wheel come with the thick leather anatomic grips design, that give you a firm grip and positive steering feel that you just can’t get from the stock wheel. A bit smaller diameter and aluminum material make it weigh half of my standard EG9 steering wheel! Better not to choose the smallest size, it will ruin the daily driving (except you want to feel like driving the go cart).

To install, is straight forward job, unless if you have an air bag, have a little bit tricky! Need suitable steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits), DC2 and 1992 – 1995 Honda Civic EG are interchangeable.

The standard one.

Remove the center pad and the steering wheel nut, no need a special tool,  enough with the socket and extension, the nut will be fairly tight. Remove the steering wheel by rocking it slightly from side-to-side as you pull steadily with both hands.

Install the steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits). Be sure the steering wheel shaft engages the turn signal canceling sleeve. Install back the steering wheel nut.

Install the horn button, connect the two wires to the horn button. It doesn’t matter which wire goes to which connector. If there no connector for the ground (body) just touch it at any place at the steering wheel adapter, put the tape or rewiring, etc., as long as it will stick there. Verify the horn operation. Make sure the steering wheel adapter arrow in the center position.

Insert the MOMO steering wheel and the adapter plate.

Secure it with the hex screw and everything is done. Easy right?

The silver spoke match with the dashboard.

Then take the car for a ride and verify that the turn signals shut off properly after making a turn and don’t forget to attack the corner!

What you’re aspect from the moving parts? Although the CV joints are EXTREMELY tough, but the rubber cover that protects the drive axle joint, it’s also known as the CV (constant velocity) boot, is not. The boots will tear (like mine) or crack over time, and the grease that the boots hold inside will leak out. The CV joint will then be exposed to dirt, moisture and other debris, so you can replace them before damage is done to the more expensive CV joint. Remember CV joints also are EXTREMELY expensive!

The boots will be the indicator for you to service the CV, time by time, heat by heat, the grease itself will degrade, now it’s time to inspect and refresh!

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Since this job requires quite a bit of disassembly, you may want to take advantage of the opportunity and change out your brake pads/rotors or do front suspension & sway bar maintenance (Bushing replacement)

Raise both front wheels off the ground and secure car with jack stands . Remove wheel.

Raise the locking tap on the spindle nut and remove it. I have 2 method to remove the high torque spindle nut:

1. The easier way, use the impact gun! Or machine gun! (Just Kidding), if you didn’t have any, just go nearby workshop, just loosen it, not to remove! Then hand tight it with the breaker bar, drive slowly to your home and remove it with the breaker bar.

2. Using fully of your superman power with the breaker bar and socket extension to remove! Make sure your wheel still on the car (with the the center cap remove if you have any) and your car on the ground and ask your friend or neighbor to push the brakes to lock the rotor from spinning.

Tadaa!

Remove damper fork bolt,

To remove the Honda LCA ball joint, I highly recommend you to using ball joint remover, that make your life easy, because Honda ball joint is superior tight, some people may prefer use hammer or ‘jack technique’ .

Pry the driveshaft assembly with a screwdriver as shown to force the set ring at the driveshaft end past the groove.

Pull the inboard joint and remove the driveshaft and CV joint from the differential case as an assembly.

- With Intermediate Shaft:

Remove the right driveshaft from the bearing support by tapping the inboard joint of the driveshaft with a plastic hammer.

CAUTION:

1. Do not pull on the driveshaft, as the CV joint may come apart.

2. Use care when prying out the assembly and pull it straight to avoid damaging the differential oil seal.

Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer.

This is the best time to check the differential oil seal for any wear.

This is the main part of the driveshaft, I only remove the driver side (right hand drive), the passenger side is quite similar, except its link with the intermediate shaft that link to the gearbox.

The leaking point at the outboard joint boot close up.

Cut out all the boots band (red dashed line).

Remove the inboard joint and roller.

Remove the circlip (using circlip remover or anything that suitable), according to the manual service, it’s a good practice to install everything back in their original positions, mark the spider and driveshaft then remove the spider using a commercially available bearing remover, but I am just using plastic hammer and its work. It’s hard to remove the stopper ring, the only reason I remove it, is easier for me to remove/install the dynamic damper and boots, you should consider before removing it. Then remove the inboard boot and dynamic damper from the driveshaft.

Inspect and clean everything, remove as much of the grease as possible, replace circlip or stopper ring if needed.

I don’t know why I put this picture, ha ha

Inspect and clean the inboard joint.

Remove the outboard joint boot.

Clean the outboard joint from grease. Inspect for faulty movement and wear, according to manual service, this part should not be disassemble.

Shopping time!

USE ONLY DRIVESHAFT GREASE

Clean up more.

Pack the outboard and inboard joint including inside the boots with the driveshaft/joint grease.

Recommended grease quantity, inboard joint –> 120-130 g (4.2-4.6 oz), outboard joint –> 90-100 g (3.2-3.5 oz).

Crimp the boot clamp tight, very very tight, be careful not to damage the boots  .  I carefully used a screw driver and pliers, but there is a special tool you can buy that is designed for these style clamps. Once again, very tight…

Reinstallation is the reverse of removal, DON’T FORGET to put the cotter-pin back, the picture show the cotter-pin correct position. Just remember to tighten the suspension to the final torque in the loaded position. To do this, install suspension bolts loose (not even wrench tight), rest the car on ramps, and then tighten the bolts to their final torque.

Another tear has been wiped!

Header is graphical/media content or only text that runs across the top of the web page design on your screen, header is very important and most valuable space on the screen, it will make someone fall in love at the first sight with your webpage or love to click the close tab button immediately. The primary purpose is to promote your company’s brand and make it instantly recognizable to your audience.

It will be anything! Depend on your purpose and creativity, I choose to use Flash or rectangular image.

I assume you read my basic CSS  entry

To create the layout of the webpage using CSS, we need to set the division or a section in an HTML document using <div> Tag. The <div> tag defines a division or a section in an HTML document and used to group block-elements to format them with CSS. We need to define the parameters between the tag. For example, imagine <div> Tag as the plain paper, and CSS as you want to coloring, put some sticker and cut it out and put it on your wall (webpage). Confuse?  Lets try some code…

Put this CSS code on your CSS sheet…

/******************************/
/*  HEADER SECTION  */
/******************************/

.Header {
    width:664px;
    margin: auto;
    left: auto;
}

.HeaderBG {
    background-image: url(../Image/Header_BG.png);
    height: 194px;
    width: 664px;
    z-index: 1;
    top: 0px;
}

I hope this picture will describe more than text

Example of left and top margin,

.HeaderBG and .Header is just the name, you can put any name that you want, DO NOT start a class name with a number! This is only supported in Internet Explorer. Just don’t forget to put the “.” at the first letter to defined the HTML class attribute (will explain later). This name is used to create a direct relationship with the HTML tag that you want to edit.

To make sure the layout always at the center of the webpage, leave the the margin and left is auto for .header –> margin: auto;   &  left: auto;

To make sure the image for .HeaderBG always at the center of the web-browsers at any screen resolution, leave the the left value is auto –> left: auto;

 Now, this the time to manipulate that CSS code, put this code at the HTML Document (Webpage) under the <body> tag

<!– (Header) –> Note : this is the comment tag ( <!–…–>) Comments are not displayed in the browsers.

<div class=”Header”>

<div class=”HeaderBG”  style=”position:absolute;”></div>

</div>

<!– (Header End) –>

class – It is used to create different classes of a element, where each class can have its own properties. The class attribute is mostly used to point to a class in a style sheet and let you apply style properties to any element or elements on the page.

style – The <style> tag is used to define style information for an HTML document. Inside the <style> element you specify how HTML elements should render in a browser. Each HTML document can contain multiple <style> tags.

position – Sets or returns the type of positioning method used for an element (static, relative, absolute or fixed)

absolute - The element is positioned relative to its first positioned (not static) ancestor element

That image is only for the background for the main image, if you want to put only plain image, the procedure is similar, just need a little bit modification, the name for html code and the name, the image link, background-repeat: no-repeat;,  margin, top, height, width and z-index (make sure the value is more than background image z-index value) for the CSS code .

For CSS (Under HEADER SECTION)—>

.Headermedia {
background-image: url(../Image/raz-veinz-header-2.jpg);
background-repeat: no-repeat;
margin: 0 0 0 30px;
height: 136px;
width: 600px;
z-index: 2;
top: 20px;
}

For HTML (Inside the <div class=”Header”></div> tag) —>

<div class=”Headermedia” style=”position:absolute;”></div>

If you want to put the Flash, used this Flash Satay Method, the valid W3C’s standards, this is the original code, of course, you need to create the Flash media first!

<object type=”application/x-shockwave-flash
data=”c.swf?path=movie.swf”
width=”400″ height=”300″>
<param name=”movie”
value=”c.swf?path=movie.swf” />
<img src=”noflash.gif”
width=”200″ height=”100″ alt=”" />
</object>

 Flash media have advantages and also disadvantages, read more here.

To put the text,

For CSS (Under HEADER SECTION)—>

.Headertext {
text-align: left;
font-family: “Times New Roman”, Times, serif;
color: #24201D;
height: 136px;
width: 664px;
z-index: 3;
top: 50px;
}
.Headertext h1{
font-size: 34px;
margin: 0 0 0 300px;
}

For HTML (Inside the <div class=”Header”></div> tag) —>

<div class=”Headertext” style=”position:absolute;”><h1>Raz-Veinz.com</h1></div>

The <h1> to <h6> tags are used to define HTML headings. <h1> defines the most important heading. <h6> defines the least important heading.

I’m  using .Headertext to create a new html division for text, and .Headertext h1 for <h1> tag that relate with .Headertext, I know this is a little bit complicated, maybe they could be more simplified, but I like to use the code in separate divisions, for more flexibility and future planning.

For the webpage title, the procedure is the same, here the code,

For the title and title background image CSS (Under HEADER SECTION)—>,

.Main-title-BG {
    background-image: url(../Image/Header_Wood.png);
    top: 203px;
    height: 79px;
    width: 765px;
    margin: -20px 0 0 -50px;
    z-index: 2;
}
    
.Main-title {
    top: 202px;
    height: 21px;
    width: 300px;
    z-index: 3;
    color: #CFC6C0;
    
}

.Main-title h2{
    font-style: oblique;
    font-size: 24px;
    margin: 0 0 0 30px;
}

For HTML (Inside the <div class=”Header”></div> tag) —>

<div class=”Main-title-BG” style=”position:absolute;”></div>
<div class=”Main-title” style=”position:absolute;”>
<!– TemplateBeginEditable name=”Main-Title” –>
<h2>Home</h2>
<!– TemplateEndEditable –>
</div>

The result, view with internet browser (shortkey ; F12)

To make it clearly, this is where the coding goes…

I think, that’s all for the basic header, see you in the next entry.

For my Meaningful Smile Series collection,

DISCLAIMER: I didn’t make of tutorial or something like that,
didn’t want to teach you to do this and that
(in fact, I’m still in the learning process), just want to share,
if you want to draw, draw from your inner heart, that better…

For the equipment and preparation, you can refer introduction of my previous entry : DIY : Oil Painting – Portrait  , I start with rough pencil sketch,  It doesn’t have to be exact, just for composition.

I use dark color for background to help me choose the right tone to mix and and to see relationship between main character and the background, lets it dry…

Playing with the shadow, use a little black and light color to adjust the face…

Do more adjustments in the face. Re-sketch with the pencil…

Focus on eyes, nose and mouth, mix the color until get the right tone for the skin, need more patient…using white color to marking the part that need lighting effect.

Adding more details at the mouth and the skin, try to balance the shadow between skin and shadow, to make color layers smooth, I used my fingers tip. Adjust body posture. Start building the background.

Once again, more details on the face, lighting and the background…

Make sure painting completely dry, then apply the varnish oil, put the frame and done!

Motivation: What important is, don’t give up and don’t be hesitate, this your arts, be proud

The CEL (Check Engine Light) at the gauge cluster should turn on and then off after 2 seconds when the key is in ON, but suddenly, it’s never turn off!

Don’t panic, take a deep breath…locate the computer box (ECU) and service check connector on the passenger side, under the dash, behind the foot carpet.

With the key OFF, Connect the service check connector terminals with a jumper wire as shown below and turn the ignition switch on.

The CEL will come on like normal but will then begin to flash.

A LONG flash (1 second) is equal to 10
A SHORT flash (0.5 second) is equal to 1

for example, it will blink, –1sec–1sec–0.5sec–0.5sec = Code : 22

Check your code here,

OBD1 CEL code List

0 ECU – ECU circuit problem
1 O2A – Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B – Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP – manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP – crank position sensor
5 MAP – manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT – water temperature sensor
7 TPS – throttle position sensor
8 TDC – top dead centre sensor
9 CYP – cylinder sensor
10 IAT – intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR – exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO – atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) – idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS – speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 Valve timing oil pressure switch
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu’s
38 Secondary vtec solenoid on JDM 3 stage D15B Vtec ECUs (P2J)
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF – lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF – crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor circuit
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)
67 Cat Converter
70 Automatic transmission problem
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 EGR Valve/Line
86 ECT sensor – Cooling System
90 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak
91 Fuel Tank pressure sensor
92 EVAP Solenoid/Valve/Vacuum Lines

Mine is 22, that mean, I have problem with valve timing oil pressure switch, yes, that absolutely true! One of my oil pressure switch 2P connector wire has been broken!

Need to rewiring! So, I cut out the connector. The blue/black wire is too short, so, I remove the black rubber that surrounding the wire for more space,

Soldering time!

Wrap with 4mm sumi tube for insolator.

Check the connectivity or leakage using Multimeter or any method that similar with.

Surrounding the connection with the liquid gasket.

I using clip connecter to reconnect wire from ECU and wire from oil pressure switch 2P connector.

Sorry for this disaster picture!

Wrap the  connection with isolator tape or some people call it ‘the black tape’

And wrap the entire wire.

Check the grounding with the car body.

Reset the ECU, make sure the ignition switch turn off, remove the back up fuse (7.5A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box for 10 secs. This procedure must be done after any troubleshooting.

So, no more unwanted light!

This is a very important maintenance. Do a valve adjustment at least once a year. Why do you need to adjust your valves clearance?

1. To make sure your valvetrain stays in good shape.

2. To gain power and to safe your fuel (this is the favorite quote!)

3. To decrease unwanted noise, tap, tap, tap, tappet!

4. Will greatly increase the life of your engine.

5. The engine will breath and exhale better.

The conventional means of adjusting valve actuation always require a small clearance to be left between the valve and its rocker or cam follower to allow for thermal expansion and wear.

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Valve should adjusted when the cylinder head temperature is less than 38°C (100°F).

Start by turning the front wheels to the left.  Lift the passenger side (Right-hand car) of your car with the jack,  this will give you adequate clearance to reach the main crank bolt. But if you want more room, then, remove the tire,  open the splash shield a little bit, this will give you the opportunity to check your left stopper rubber and oil pan condition. I use a long extension and 19mm socket to turn the crank, don’t turn it right now, wait until the next step when we need to set the crank at Top Dead Center (TDC).

Disconnect the negative battery cable (I covered up the terminal for safety reason)

Reminder : Make sure your cylinder head temperature is less than 38°C (100°F) and make sure the transmission in neutral before proceeding the next step. Locate your valve cover, remove the spark plug cover.

Remove all spark plug wires and the nuts circled in yellow (yellow?) follows the sequence from 1-8, and remove the other thing that attached to the valve cover (green circle). Now the valve cover is ready to come off, just wiggle it a little bit and it should pop right off.

The location of the adjustment screw pair for intake and exhaust side, the number also refer for the piston, no. 1 = piston no.1.

It will also make it easier to turn the motor over if you remove the spark plugs. Optional. TIP: Sometimes it’s easier to pull the plugs out of the block by using the plug wires to grab them after you’ve loosened them if you don’t have a spark plug socket. I used  16mm magnetic  socket.

If you remove the plugs, be sure to inspect them as they can tell you a lot about how the car is running. A light brown color indicates a perfect A/F mixture. White is lean likewise black indicates rich. If you see dampness or oil on it, then you are in trouble. Mine is functioning optimally.

Start by setting the no. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) by turning the crank pulley until the “up” arrows on the cam sprockets are facing up. Turn the crank pulley only counter clockwise!  If you over turn, don’t try to turn the motor backwards, just keep turning another 2 rotations of the crank until you get back to your TDC point.

It should be a white mark and or a notch on the crank pulley.

Try to look at the no. 1 piston spark plug hole, the piston should be at the very top, that is the meaning of  Top Dead Center (TDC) (Sorry for the unclear picture).

You need: a set of feeler gauges (use an angled feeler gauge), 10mm tappet adjusting wrench (this is the my home made tappet adjusting wrench, just a long socket combined with the flat metal, needed to hold the locknut in place and the flat head screw driver is for turning the adjustment screw on B16A, B16B or B18C motors. Not all the Honda’s engine needs this special tool. I have tried to only use normal long socket+extension, it works! But need more trial and error and time!).

Honda has a specific tappet adjusting wrench, the part numbers are 07MAA-PR70110 and 07MAA-PR70120. This is a special tool and also come with the “special” price, and of course my poor dealer didn’t have this one and even don’t know what it is!

Valve clearance specs for B16A,B16B and B18C:
INTAKE : 0.006″ – 0.007″ (0.15mm – 0.19mm)
EXHAUST : 0.007″ – 0.008″ (0.17mm – 0.21mm)

As you can imagine, the exhaust valves get hotter than the intake valves which explains their larger gap

Check the valve clearance for no. 1 piston. I slide the 0.010″ gauge between the rocker and the camshaft (in the gap below the cam lobe) for both sides (intake & exhaust), It slips through easily! I think the last owner probably never had a valve adjustment.

Loosen the locknut just a few degrees

Actually, I only using 3 gauges, 0.006″, 0.007″ and 0.008″. Hold the locknut using the tappet adjusting wrench, and turn the adjustment screw, for the intake side, until 0.006″ feeler gauge slide back and forth with a slight amount of drag and 0.007″ feeler gauge  shouldn’t. Same procedure for the exhaust side, .007 should slide in, but the .008 shouldn’t. Piece of nut.

After having the right clearance, hold the adjustment screw and tighten the locknut. Then torque locknut to 20 Nm (14 lb-ft) (be careful to not overtorque the nuts as they strip very easily!) and measure the clearance again. Torquing it will increase the clearance slightly, so keep this in mind when you’re adjusting them so you don’t have to keep repeating the process. Repeat adjustment if necessary.

After you are done with the 4 valves on no. 1 piston, move on to cylinder 3, 4, then 2, in that order. You will need to crank the motor to TDC for each of the cylinders you will be adjusting. Do the same process as before on each of the cylinders.

Repeat the process, double check, triple check, maybe you will find the clearance out a little bit even you have tightened the locknut, don’t worry, it’s normal, repeat the process until no adjustment is needed, I do about 5 times to get it correctly and precisely!

Consider replacing the valve cover gasket

Most of the re-installation process is the opposite of removal.

Has an idle problem after Valves Clearance/Backlash Adjustment? Idle roughly before engine warm up?

If you done correctly and precisely, it should be no problem, reset the ECU by pulling the 7.5A fuse in the fuse box under the hood about 10sec and drive around 100km (on/off), sometime ECU needs to “relearn” for the new setting.

Have a fun and enjoy with your achievement!

Fact : Cascading Style Sheets (CSS) is a style sheet language used for describing the presentation semantics (the look and formatting) of a document written in a markup language. Its most common application is to style web pages written in HTML and XHTML, but the language can also be applied to any kind of XML document, including plain XML, SVG and XUL. Source : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Css#Use

Why You Should Use CSS?

Back in early days of the world wide web, it was enough to construct a web page using only HTML coding. But today with influx of all new kinds of devices surfing the net, it has become increasingly important to have web page coding separated into two distinct components: content and styles. In this manner, you can take the same basic content and style it according to the device that is accessing the web page. For example, making a web page printer-friendly can be easily accomplished using CSS. The same goes for mobile devices.

They are a way to control the look and feel of your HTML documents in an organized and efficient manner. With CSS you will be able to:

• Add new looks to your old HTML
• Completely restyle a web site with only a few changes to your CSS code
• Use the “style” you create on any webpage you wish!

Wow, now I really don’t know how to start with, maybe from the very basic thing, such how to create font, color, background color, border style, etc using CSS….I want to write about my experience playing with CSS using Dreamweaver, to create professional web page, you should definitely learn CSS, maybe you will fall in love with it, who know? More coding to learn? Don’t you worry, step by step, world now-day make us know-nothing-but-want-to-learn easier even you come from definitely from other field, just like me. in an organized and efficient manner

The concept is simple, for example, imagine, like we as webpage and our wardrobe as CSS, so, every style and fashion cloth that you that need for stylish is there, if not, you need to sewing, buy or even steal! Could you imagine yourself without your stylish cloth? That is the basic, but CSS is more than just wardrobe if you explore more deeper.

Now, if you read about my last ‘I Build’ topic, I just create a blank webpage template, the naked man! Let’s try put some stylish on him.

1. Folder

You can write the CSS coding on the template itself, but I highly recommend you to make it separate page,  to be more organized, neat and easy to operate, Click File (Alt+f) –> New (n) –> Blank Page –> Page Type : CSS (Cascading Style Sheets)  template –> Click Create (Enter) Save at your website root (Ctrl+s)

–> create new folder for CSS (for example, CSS or Any name that you prefer)  –> File name: (Any name that you prefer) –> Click Save(Enter) It should be like below picture,

The file is saved in the Templates folder with a .css extension.

2. Connecting

To make it work with your template, you need to tell ‘him’ that you have a new wardrobe for him, Put this coding

<link href=”../CSS/Raz-Veinz-CSS.css” rel=”stylesheet” type=”text/css” />

inside the template HEAD section

3. HTML Style Example

For me, I would like to divide my CSS for specific sections, for example, BACKGROUND SECTION, to put the title without touching the code, type;

/******************************/

/*  TITLE  */

/******************************/

Let’s try, to know either it functioning or not with simple coding, background color,

body { background-color: #8AA7C2; }

body is the name for CSS Style (or Any name that you prefer) and #8AA7C2 is my background color coding, you can use either DECIMAL RGB or HEXADECIMAL HTML color codes, click here for example of HEXADECIMAL HTML, just copy and paste the color code, the result should be like this;

You also can put some image for the background picture or as additional background image, create a new folder for image, right click at the root folder link at the right side bar menu, click New Folder,

Rename the folder, for example, Image or Any name that you prefer, you can drag any image into this folder for your website purpose, for example here, I put two image, Illusion_Window.jpg and Header-Pattern.png,

below is Illusion_Window.jpg,

Then, recall them! put this coding in the same CSS Style (body)

background-image: url(../Image/Illusion_Window.jpg);

/Image/ = Location of  image/picture folder 

It will multiply like this,

you also could make it multiply for only X or Y axis only, put an additional code below, also in the same CSS Style (body)

background-repeat:repeat-x; for X axis

The result,

or background-repeat:repeat-y; for Y axis

If you want to make it just single,  replace the coding with,

background-repeat:no-repeat

Then I choose to use another background image for my website, use your creativity!

body { background-color: #8AA7C2; background-image: url(../Image/Header-Pattern.png); background-repeat:repeat-x; }

Here the result,

If you want to fast edit or add new property, look at the very right side bar, click CSS menu –> All, everything in your CSS is there.

So, that’s the very basic thing about CSS, the introduction,  if you want to learn more, there are thousand tutorial out-there, just ask Uncle Google, I recommend CSS Tutorial , I will use this for my next entry.