Official Raz Veinz Blogsite

Posts Tagged OBD1

DIY : OBD 1 to OBD 2 Alternator Plug Converter

Posted in My Automotive Life | No Comments »

Now-days its seem hard to find the B16a OBD1 alternator from the junkyard, luckily, B-series OBD2 alternator is compatible but not just plug and play, there a different type of socket (OBD1 = round, OBD2 = square) and luckily again, I found 5 unit B20b alternator from Honda CRV, take them all! So, the problem is, how to convert it into OBD1 car without cutting any wire? The answer is plug converter! But, unluckily, not available in my place. Give up? no.

Wait! Don’t throw away your broken heart OBD1 alternator, take out the voltage regulator.

and modify into this…with great patiently of course…

With the OBD2 alternator plug that stick at the alternator, I soldered it with the OBD1 voltage regulator socket (don’t forget to check the continuity with the multimeter before soldering) , seal with the epoxy and  cover and secure it with flexible split tubing. Here the outlet diagram.

Tadaa! 

DIY : How to retrieve Honda Civic OBD1 CEL (Check Engine Light) codes

Posted in My Automotive Life | No Comments »

The CEL (Check Engine Light) at the gauge cluster should turn on and then off after 2 seconds when the key is in ON, but suddenly, it’s never turn off!

Don’t panic, take a deep breath…locate the computer box (ECU) and service check connector on the passenger side, under the dash, behind the foot carpet.

With the key OFF, Connect the service check connector terminals with a jumper wire as shown below and turn the ignition switch on.

The CEL will come on like normal but will then begin to flash.

A LONG flash (1 second) is equal to 10
A SHORT flash (0.5 second) is equal to 1

for example, it will blink, —1sec1sec0.5sec0.5sec = Code : 22

Check your code here,

OBD1 CEL code List

0 ECU – ECU circuit problem
1 O2A – Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B – Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP – manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP – crank position sensor
5 MAP – manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT – water temperature sensor
7 TPS – throttle position sensor
8 TDC – top dead centre sensor
9 CYP – cylinder sensor
10 IAT – intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR – exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO – atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) – idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS – speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 Valve timing oil pressure switch
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu’s
38 Secondary vtec solenoid on JDM 3 stage D15B Vtec ECUs (P2J)
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF – lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF – crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor circuit
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)
67 Cat Converter
70 Automatic transmission problem
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 EGR Valve/Line
86 ECT sensor – Cooling System
90 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak
91 Fuel Tank pressure sensor
92 EVAP Solenoid/Valve/Vacuum Lines

Mine is 22, that mean, I have problem with valve timing oil pressure switch, yes, that absolutely true! One of my oil pressure switch 2P connector wire has been broken!

Need to rewiring! So, I cut out the connector. The blue/black wire is too short, so, I remove the black rubber that surrounding the wire for more space,

Soldering time!

Wrap with 4mm sumi tube for insolator.

Check the connectivity or leakage using Multimeter or any method that similar with.

Surrounding the connection with the liquid gasket.

I using clip connecter to reconnect wire from ECU and wire from oil pressure switch 2P connector.

Sorry for this disaster picture!

Wrap the  connection with isolator tape or some people call it ‘the black tape’

And wrap the entire wire.

Check the grounding with the car body.

Reset the ECU, make sure the ignition switch turn off, remove the back up fuse (7.5A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box for 10 secs. This procedure must be done after any troubleshooting.

So, no more unwanted light!