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DIY : Honda Civic 1992-1995 Ball Joint Replacement

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I think this procedure is similar for Honda Integra DC2, Civic 4th and 6th generation. I divide this post onto 3 parts, by removal sequence.

Part 1 : Lower Arm Ball Joint

  1. Remove the spindle nut – Previous post
  2. Separate the tie-rod end from the knuckle – Previous post
  3. Separate the ball joint from the lower arm – Previous post
  4. Separate the upper arm ball joint from the knuckle – Part 2

Then, remove ball joint from knuckle by first remove the circlip, then press out using pressing machine (machine shop).

Circlip remover.

The new design does’t have circlip…

Press the new one and put everything back together where they are belong except if you want to continue for part 2 and part 3, hold for the tie-rod end only if you want to skip to part 3

Part 2 : Upper Arm Ball Joint

Unfortunately, to remove the civic 5th generation upper arm, first, you need to remove the shock absorber, I think this is the reason why Honda redesign Civic 6th generation upper arm.

Separate the upper arm ball joint from the knuckle, same procedure from Part 1 (step 3).

Remove 4 nuts that hold the upper arm and shock absober.

Remove the damper pinch bolt…

so on with the damper fork bolt

And then you can grand the freedom for the shock absober.

Replacement part, according to my local supplier, there is no more OEM Honda upper arm for my vehicle, similar quality is from Sankei Industry Co.,Ltd. in the 555 trademark.

Made in Japan quality for sure.

Put everything back together.

Don’t forget your cotter-pin!

Part 3 : Steering Rack Ball Joint

Separate the tie-rod end from the knuckle, you can read from my previous post, it’s the same procedure.

Remove the rack end ball joint. (there have special tool to remove this, but I only used 2 big adjustable wrench, one to unscrew the rack end and another to hold the steering rack)

This is why they call it rack end.

Replacement part. Can you spot the difference? Yeah, the new one ball joint housing does’t have place for big wrench.

Alignment marking.

Screw it by hand…

Then tighten the rack end using wrench.

Coat the sliding surface of the rack end with the grease and insert the dust seal.

Don’t forget your tube clamp.

Can you spot the difference? Yeah, the new one made from the gold! (just kidding…)

Install back tie-rod end (refer to my previous post).

And, I don’t know why I put this picture…maybe symbolic for THE END.

 

DIY : Honda Civic/Integra B-Series Thermostat Replacement & IACV/Throttle Body Coolant Bypass

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I didn’t have any problem with my thermostat, just do the preventive maintenance, it is something very important that you need to prevent, overheating.  The thermostat is the very important cooling system component,  the main function is to maintain the engine operating temperature, not too cool and not too hot, just simply perfect temperature, like the adjustable hot-cold shower knob, in the cold morning, it will rise the minimum opening temperature quickly (to prevent poor gas mileage, fouled O² sensors, clogged exhaust systems and losing power),  to know how it works, watch the video below.

And this is how cooling system works.

And I have no idea why people cut off the thermostat and bypass the radiator fan (mean the coolant always circulate and the fan will always on) for street car, even for the racing car this modified is only a little bit few.

First, make sure the engine is cold…remove the intake and some wiring to get more access and space.

Prepare some reservoir container under the thermostat housing to make sure the coolant do not spill everywhere (bad for environment and animal), another option is to drain the coolant a little from radiator tank.  Two bolts that need to remove, this one and…

this one.

Take out the thermostat housing, bend the hose to prevent coolant spill, will lose some coolant for sure.

Comparison.

Clean the thermostat housing, then install the new one, don’t worry, there are the mechanism that prevent you from misplace.

I also take this chance to replace the old tired-rubber-hose-that-cannot-withstand-with-the-pressure-anymore with the silicon one, how do I know? Here the picture at the cold temperature.

and here the picture after certain boiling point, scare right? Poom!

Comparison. Silicon vs. stock.

And also the others hose…(please ignore the missing throttle body), and if you look more closer, you will notice that I also do some bypass, the hose that go through throttle body, to cool the intake manifold a little bit. Even wonder why the manufacture design this way? The only reason that I could think is to warm up the throttle body during the winter or very very cold climate to prevent the throttle body butterfly from stuck, but there is not the problem in my country (Malaysia) with benefits from a tropical climate with high temperatures and high humidity throughout the year. And you from the winter sonata country, I didn’t recommend this mod. And for  IACV line, I didn’t really get why…someone? I think for ‘idle’ reason…but, so far, I didn’t have any problem with my idle.

Install everything back in the reverse order of removal. Open the radiator cap and pour coolant into the radiator up to the base of the filler neck, squeeze the radiator hose a little to let the bubbles come out of the top of the radiator.

To remove the bubbles, loosen the bleed bolt (locate under distributor for B-series, but, didn’t  have for type-r series), tighten it again when coolant comes out in a steady stream with no bubbles.

Refill the radiator to the base of the filler neck. Put the cap on the radiator and tighten it only to the first stop (to give a little pressure for fast warm up, or the other method is to rise up the rpm). start the engine and let it run until it warms up (the radiator cooling fan comes on at least twice), that mean, the coolant begins to circulate.

Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator, add coolant if needed, install the radiator cap and tighten it fully.

Fill the reservoir to the MAX mark and keep checking the coolant levels.

The perfect cooler your car, the more cooler you are 

Defi’s Water/Oil Temperature and Oil Pressure Gauges Installation and review.

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Why do we need an additional gauges? For me, is for the accuracy reading and additional important information, and get the bonus, the racing looks! I do believe in the precision technology that Defi offer,  installation is very straight forward, you could download the manual from their website.

Need the separate sensor adapter/attachment , Juran Racing provide the precise, lightweight and coolest sensor attachment.

 Take this chance to change the engine oil, just check out the magnetic oil sump bolt, have a few metal debris, hmm, a good buy.

 Remove the oil filter.

 For more protection, I wrap the sensor cable with the flexible tubing.

 Perfectly fit.

 Cut the upper radiator hose, make sure not to spill the coolant everywhere (bad for environment and animal, also, you could reused the coolant).

The correct angle to install the water temperature sensor is at the bottom side of an upper hose. If a hose does not have mush coolant at the inside, a sensor on the top of the hose would not be exposed to the coolant.

Then, do the coolant bleeding process, refer to my other page.

The result.

Night view.

Comparison with the stock temperature meter, irony, the stock also come from the same manufacture, Nippon Seiki Co.,Ltd (NS) . The black line is pointer for 90 °c (stock meter didn’t have any indicator pointer or number, I wonder why…)

At 21 °c.

38 °c.

46 °c.

60 °c.

Oil temperature : 60 °c.

72 °c.

80 °c.

98 °c (Radiator fan on).

Oil temperature : 100 °c.

100 °c.

Conclusion :  The stock meter really not accurate (in my case), are they put some resistor between  reading 60 – 100 °c? The stock dial didn’t move at all between that range. The late warning for high temperature will be very dangerous.

DIY : Honda Civic 1987-2000 Front Brake Calipers/Pistons Maintenance/rebuild

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Well…safety is always the first, this is the part and mechanism that make sure your life is under safety term when you drive your machine, but you also need to make sure this mechanism is safety to use, especially when the mileages is beyond 100 000km, inspection is crucial…

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Remove the banjo bolt and disconnect the brake hose from caliper, don’t worry about brake fluid, after sometime brake fluid will stop flowing. It’s a good idea to have something to catch the excess brake fluid that will drain from the lines. For example, half of empty mineral bottle.

Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the caliper bracket bolts (if you want to service and paint your caliper bracket).

Wow! 

Apply compressed air to the caliper fluid inlet to get the piston out, be-careful, make sure your fingers in safety place. For cushioning, place wooden piece or rag in front of piston.

Inspection…

Result : Need to replace the piston, piston seal and piston boot.

Comparison between old and new piston, piston seal and piston boot.

Clean the cylinder groove and all parts as clean as you can!

Painting time!

Install the new piston seal.

This is the tricky part, to install piston with the piston boot in the cylinder. Firstly, install the boot onto the piston with the correct position.

Next, hmm, the picture will tell you more…

Slightly and slowly insert the outer boot lip in the cylinder groove, corner by corner using fingers and a small flat-head screwdriver (be-careful, you may tear the boot) .

Yeah, passion is need here…

Done!

Make sure the boot in the right place.

Reassembly all back together using reverse step, re-grease the caliper pin and install the new brake pads.

Hmm, satisfy enough…

Make the bleeding proces. Now, it’s time to rolling again!

DIY : 92-95 Honda Civic Fuel Filter Replacement

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Someone maybe wonder, “fuel filter? I never thought that thing ever exist in my car!”, yes, that thing is not famous as oil filter or air filter, but equivalent important too,  year after year, there can be a fair amount of rust and debris in the fuel tank, some come from the time when you adding fuel, and fuel filter will plugged and the fuel pressure will drop as well, and that’s not sound good right? The filter should be replaced every 2 years or 40 000 km, whichever come first, and it’s a just cheap and simple preventative maintenance.

Disconnected the negative cable from the battery negative terminal.

Put rag or shop towel under and around the fuel filter, hold the banjo bolt with 17mm wrench and remove the service bolt with 12mm wrench, this procedure is to relive fuel pressure.

Remove the banjo bolt and fuel feed pipe from the filter. Remove the fuel filter clamp by removing the clamping bolt (blue circle – refer above picture).

Come from the old filter, this is the reason why…

New fuel filter, come with the washer, install everything back in the reverse order of removal, and done.