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MOMO Steering Wheel Installations

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For better handling and stylish, this upgrade is the most, why I choose MOMO? because Honda choose them! MOMO steering wheel is the standard accessories for Honda NSX, Integra DC2/DC5 and Civic EK9 Type-R! The  steering wheel come with the thick leather anatomic grips design, that give you a firm grip and positive steering feel that you just can’t get from the stock wheel. A bit smaller diameter and aluminum material make it weigh half of my standard EG9 steering wheel! Better not to choose the smallest size, it will ruin the daily driving (except you want to feel like driving the go cart).

To install, is straight forward job, unless if you have an air bag, have a little bit tricky! Need suitable steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits), DC2 and 1992 – 1995 Honda Civic EG are interchangeable.

The standard one.

Remove the center pad and the steering wheel nut, no need a special tool,  enough with the socket and extension, the nut will be fairly tight. Remove the steering wheel by rocking it slightly from side-to-side as you pull steadily with both hands.

Install the steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits). Be sure the steering wheel shaft engages the turn signal canceling sleeve. Install back the steering wheel nut.

Install the horn button, connect the two wires to the horn button. It doesn’t matter which wire goes to which connector. If there no connector for the ground (body) just touch it at any place at the steering wheel adapter, put the tape or rewiring, etc., as long as it will stick there. Verify the horn operation. Make sure the steering wheel adapter arrow in the center position.

Insert the MOMO steering wheel and the adapter plate.

Secure it with the hex screw and everything is done. Easy right?

The silver spoke match with the dashboard.

Then take the car for a ride and verify that the turn signals shut off properly after making a turn and don’t forget to attack the corner!

DIY : Honda Civic B-Series Driveshaft / CV (constant velocity) / Drive Axle Boots and Grease Replacement

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What you’re aspect from the moving parts? Although the CV joints are EXTREMELY tough, but the rubber cover that protects the drive axle joint, it’s also known as the CV (constant velocity) boot, is not. The boots will tear (like mine) or crack over time, and the grease that the boots hold inside will leak out. The CV joint will then be exposed to dirt, moisture and other debris, so you can replace them before damage is done to the more expensive CV joint. Remember CV joints also are EXTREMELY expensive!

The boots will be the indicator for you to service the CV, time by time, heat by heat, the grease itself will degrade, now it’s time to inspect and refresh!

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Since this job requires quite a bit of disassembly, you may want to take advantage of the opportunity and change out your front brake service or do front suspension & sway bar maintenance (Bushing replacement)

Raise both front wheels off the ground and secure car with jack stands . Remove wheel.

Raise the locking tap on the spindle nut and remove it. I have 2 method to remove the high torque spindle nut:

1. The easier way, use the impact gun! Or machine gun! (Just Kidding), if you didn’t have any, just go nearby workshop, just loosen it, not to remove! Then hand tight it with the breaker bar, drive slowly to your home and remove it with the breaker bar.

2. Using fully of your superman power with the breaker bar and socket extension to remove! Make sure your wheel still on the car (with the the center cap remove if you have any) and your car on the ground and ask your friend or neighbor to push the brakes to lock the rotor from spinning.

Tadaa!

Remove damper fork bolt,

To remove the Honda LCA ball joint, I highly recommend you to using ball joint remover, that make your life easy, because Honda ball joint is superior tight, some people may prefer use hammer or ‘jack technique’ .

Pry the driveshaft assembly with a screwdriver as shown to force the set ring at the driveshaft end past the groove.

Pull the inboard joint and remove the driveshaft and CV joint from the differential case as an assembly.

– With Intermediate Shaft:

Remove the right driveshaft from the bearing support by tapping the inboard joint of the driveshaft with a plastic hammer.

CAUTION:

1. Do not pull on the driveshaft, as the CV joint may come apart.

2. Use care when prying out the assembly and pull it straight to avoid damaging the differential oil seal.

Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer.

This is the best time to check the differential oil seal for any wear.

This is the main part of the driveshaft, I only remove the driver side (right hand drive), the passenger side is quite similar, except its link with the intermediate shaft that link to the gearbox.

The leaking point at the outboard joint boot close up.

Cut out all the boots band (red dashed line).

Remove the inboard joint and roller.

Remove the circlip (using circlip remover or anything that suitable), according to the manual service, it’s a good practice to install everything back in their original positions, mark the spider and driveshaft then remove the spider using a commercially available bearing remover, but I am just using plastic hammer and its work. It’s hard to remove the stopper ring, the only reason I remove it, is easier for me to remove/install the dynamic damper and boots, you should consider before removing it. Then remove the inboard boot and dynamic damper from the driveshaft.

Inspect and clean everything, remove as much of the grease as possible, replace circlip or stopper ring if needed.

I don’t know why I put this picture, ha ha

Inspect and clean the inboard joint.

Remove the outboard joint boot.

Clean the outboard joint from grease. Inspect for faulty movement and wear, according to manual service, this part should not be disassemble.

Shopping time!

USE ONLY DRIVESHAFT GREASE

Clean up more.

Pack the outboard and inboard joint including inside the boots with the driveshaft/joint grease.

Recommended grease quantity, inboard joint –> 120-130 g (4.2-4.6 oz), outboard joint –> 90-100 g (3.2-3.5 oz).

Crimp the boot clamp tight, very very tight, be careful not to damage the boots  .  I carefully used a screw driver and pliers, but there is a special tool you can buy that is designed for these style clamps (come with the boots). Once again, very tight…

But, I prefer to use this type of clamps (need to buy separately), easy and more clamping force, cheap clamping plier like mine is good enough to securely clamp the boots.

Reinstallation is the reverse of removal, DON’T FORGET to put the cotter-pin back, the picture show the cotter-pin correct position. Just remember to tighten the suspension to the final torque in the loaded position. To do this, install suspension bolts loose (not even wrench tight), rest the car on ramps, and then tighten the bolts to their final torque.

Another tear has been wiped!

DIY : How to retrieve Honda Civic OBD1 CEL (Check Engine Light) codes

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The CEL (Check Engine Light) at the gauge cluster should turn on and then off after 2 seconds when the key is in ON, but suddenly, it’s never turn off!

Don’t panic, take a deep breath…locate the computer box (ECU) and service check connector on the passenger side, under the dash, behind the foot carpet.

With the key OFF, Connect the service check connector terminals with a jumper wire as shown below and turn the ignition switch on.

The CEL will come on like normal but will then begin to flash.

A LONG flash (1 second) is equal to 10
A SHORT flash (0.5 second) is equal to 1

for example, it will blink, —1sec1sec0.5sec0.5sec = Code : 22

Check your code here,

OBD1 CEL code List

0 ECU – ECU circuit problem
1 O2A – Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B – Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP – manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP – crank position sensor
5 MAP – manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT – water temperature sensor
7 TPS – throttle position sensor
8 TDC – top dead centre sensor
9 CYP – cylinder sensor
10 IAT – intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR – exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO – atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) – idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS – speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 Valve timing oil pressure switch
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu’s
38 Secondary vtec solenoid on JDM 3 stage D15B Vtec ECUs (P2J)
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF – lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF – crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor circuit
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)
67 Cat Converter
70 Automatic transmission problem
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 EGR Valve/Line
86 ECT sensor – Cooling System
90 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak
91 Fuel Tank pressure sensor
92 EVAP Solenoid/Valve/Vacuum Lines

Mine is 22, that mean, I have problem with valve timing oil pressure switch, yes, that absolutely true! One of my oil pressure switch 2P connector wire has been broken!

Need to rewiring! So, I cut out the connector. The blue/black wire is too short, so, I remove the black rubber that surrounding the wire for more space,

Soldering time!

Wrap with 4mm sumi tube for insolator.

Check the connectivity or leakage using Multimeter or any method that similar with.

Surrounding the connection with the liquid gasket.

I using clip connecter to reconnect wire from ECU and wire from oil pressure switch 2P connector.

Sorry for this disaster picture!

Wrap the  connection with isolator tape or some people call it ‘the black tape’

And wrap the entire wire.

Check the grounding with the car body.

Reset the ECU, make sure the ignition switch turn off, remove the back up fuse (7.5A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box for 10 secs. This procedure must be done after any troubleshooting.

So, no more unwanted light!

 

 

 

DIY : Honda Civic B-Series Engine Valves Clearance/Backlash Adjustment

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This is a very important maintenance. Do a valve adjustment at least once a year. Why do you need to adjust your valves clearance?

1. To make sure your valvetrain stays in good shape.

2. To gain power and to safe your fuel (this is the favorite quote!)

3. To decrease unwanted noise, tap, tap, tap, tappet!

4. Will greatly increase the life of your engine.

5. The engine will breath and exhale better.

The conventional means of adjusting valve actuation always require a small clearance to be left between the valve and its rocker or cam follower to allow for thermal expansion and wear.

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Valve should adjusted when the cylinder head temperature is less than 38°C (100°F).

Start by turning the front wheels to the left.  Lift the passenger side (Right-hand car) of your car with the jack,  this will give you adequate clearance to reach the main crank bolt. But if you want more room, then, remove the tire,  open the splash shield a little bit, this will give you the opportunity to check your left stopper rubber and oil pan condition. I use a long extension and 19mm socket to turn the crank, don’t turn it right now, wait until the next step when we need to set the crank at Top Dead Center (TDC).

Disconnect the negative battery cable (I covered up the terminal for safety reason)

Reminder : Make sure your cylinder head temperature is less than 38°C (100°F) and make sure the transmission in neutral before proceeding the next step. Locate your valve cover, remove the spark plug cover.

Remove all spark plug wires and the nuts circled in yellow (yellow?) follows the sequence from 1-8, and remove the other thing that attached to the valve cover (green circle). Now the valve cover is ready to come off, just wiggle it a little bit and it should pop right off.

The location of the adjustment screw pair for intake and exhaust side, the number also refer for the piston, no. 1 = piston no.1.

It will also make it easier to turn the motor over if you remove the spark plugs. Optional. TIP: Sometimes it’s easier to pull the plugs out of the block by using the plug wires to grab them after you’ve loosened them if you don’t have a spark plug socket. I used  16mm magnetic  socket.

If you remove the plugs, be sure to inspect them as they can tell you a lot about how the car is running. A light brown color indicates a perfect A/F mixture. White is lean likewise black indicates rich. If you see dampness or oil on it, then you are in trouble. Mine is functioning optimally.

Start by setting the no. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) by turning the crank pulley until the “up” arrows on the cam sprockets are facing up. Turn the crank pulley only counter clockwise!  If you over turn, don’t try to turn the motor backwards, just keep turning another 2 rotations of the crank until you get back to your TDC point.

It should be a white mark and or a notch on the crank pulley.

Try to look at the no. 1 piston spark plug hole, the piston should be at the very top, that is the meaning of  Top Dead Center (TDC) (Sorry for the unclear picture).

You need: a set of feeler gauges (use an angled feeler gauge), 10mm tappet adjusting wrench (this is the my home made tappet adjusting wrench, just a long socket combined with the flat metal, needed to hold the locknut in place and the flat head screw driver is for turning the adjustment screw on B16A, B16B or B18C motors. Not all the Honda’s engine needs this special tool. I have tried to only use normal long socket+extension, it works! But need more trial and error and time!).

Honda has a specific tappet adjusting wrench, the part numbers are 07MAA-PR70110 and 07MAA-PR70120. This is a special tool and also come with the “special” price, and of course my poor dealer didn’t have this one and even don’t know what it is!

Valve clearance specs for B16A,B16B and B18C:
INTAKE : 0.006″ – 0.007″ (0.15mm – 0.19mm)
EXHAUST : 0.007″ – 0.008″ (0.17mm – 0.21mm)

As you can imagine, the exhaust valves get hotter than the intake valves which explains their larger gap

Check the valve clearance for no. 1 piston. I slide the 0.010″ gauge between the rocker and the camshaft (in the gap below the cam lobe) for both sides (intake & exhaust), It slips through easily! I think the last owner probably never had a valve adjustment.

Loosen the locknut just a few degrees

Actually, I only using 3 gauges, 0.006″, 0.007″ and 0.008″. Hold the locknut using the tappet adjusting wrench, and turn the adjustment screw, for the intake side, until 0.006″ feeler gauge slide back and forth with a slight amount of drag and 0.007″ feeler gauge  shouldn’t. Same procedure for the exhaust side, .007 should slide in, but the .008 shouldn’t. Piece of nut.

After having the right clearance, hold the adjustment screw and tighten the locknut. Then torque locknut to 20 Nm (14 lb-ft) (be careful to not overtorque the nuts as they strip very easily!) and measure the clearance again. Torquing it will increase the clearance slightly, so keep this in mind when you’re adjusting them so you don’t have to keep repeating the process. Repeat adjustment if necessary.

After you are done with the 4 valves on no. 1 piston, move on to cylinder 3, 4, then 2, in that order. You will need to crank the motor to TDC for each of the cylinders you will be adjusting. Do the same process as before on each of the cylinders.

Repeat the process, double check, triple check, maybe you will find the clearance out a little bit even you have tightened the locknut, don’t worry, it’s normal, repeat the process until no adjustment is needed, I do about 5 times to get it correctly and precisely!

Consider replacing the valve cover gasket

Most of the re-installation process is the opposite of removal.

Has an idle problem after Valves Clearance/Backlash Adjustment? Idle roughly before engine warm up?

If you done correctly and precisely, it should be no problem, reset the ECU by pulling the 7.5A fuse in the fuse box under the hood about 10sec and drive around 100km (on/off), sometime ECU needs to “relearn” for the new setting.

Have a fun and enjoy with your achievement!

DIY : Honda Civic 1992-1995 Steering Rack Rebuild/Repair and Hose Replace

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For an introduction, I would to say, this is not “how to do” page, this is the way I do, I strongly recommend you to read the factory service manual in the first place.

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

I think this is a normal issue for ‘Old Timer Car’, steering rack and hose leakage, most people prefer to replace steering rack take from junkyard, and for those who have extra money would buy entire set of steering rack! But, I decide to repair it, for two reason, if I replace with 2nd hand, how long it will longer be? I don’t know detail about the condition, and 2nd I didn’t have budget to buy new set .

Because this page is about to repair the rack, so, I skip the steering rack removal step,

If your power steering reservoir runs low, no matter how frequently you top up the fluid, you should check entire power steering system, there must be leakage somewhere. Check the steering gearbox (steering rack system), pump, reservoir, pump outlet line (high pressure), low pressure hoses and pipe.

1st step, of course, remove your steering rack from your car.

The motivation : The best repairing is done by owner himself (with knowledge and proper tools)

firstly, you need to understand the entire system work (can read from factory service manual or the Internet). Need to know each part of steering rack, and properly disassemble.

This is the step that I use to…

1. Remove the cylinder pipe.

2. Remove the tie-rod assembly (marking the original position).

3. Remove the boot bands and tube clamps. Pull  the dust seals at the ends of the gearbox.

4. Remove the rack end ball joint. (there have special tool to remove this, but I only used 2 big adjustable wrench)

5.  Mark original position of locknut and rack guide screw at the gear housing for easy installation.  Loosen the rack screw locknut and remove the rack guide screw.

6. Remove the spring and rack guide from the gear housing.

7. Remove the control valve unit from the gearbox.

8. Remove the retaining ring from the cylinder using a narrow screw driver.

9. Remove the seal holder and steering rack from the cylinder housing.

So, this is all about to disassemble part,

now we’re going to main dish, replacing the seal, time to go men shopping!

Easy part – Install new seals at seals holder

Install the new seal at the piston. Carefully pry the old piston seal ring and O-ring out off the rack. To install the new one is easy because it’s elastic characteristic, but, be-careful not to extend the piston seal ring too much, just slightly put into the piston curve and push a little bit.

Next is to replace valve unit valve oil seal and seal rings (I buy this set separately actually).  First, removing the pinion shaft from valve housing by tapping it to the floor (refer the picture for the position, not a proper technique, but it work! Just a little force is a good enough)

Removing the upper valve oil seal and the ball bearing that stick in the housing.

To ‘pop’ it out, I just using 17mm socket and hammer. Check for the worn bearing, replace if need.

Next is to removing the circlip.

It will be easy if you have circlip removal, if not…well, need to be more creative with the available tools.

Then, remove the another ball bearing, like usual, I will do this primitive method. Check for the worn bearing, replace if need.

VERY GENTLY replace all four pinion shaft sleeve seal rings, insert using bare fingers…

Replace lower valve oil seal.

Then install back the ball bearing using the valve housing itself and hammer. (Refer the picture)

Done for the replacement parts.

Install back the pinion shaft. The seal rings expand outward, so, set each ring in the housing very carefully and gently…

After fully install it, tap the shaft a little bit using hammer to make sure the ball bearing sit on the position.

I think, the hard part (not really hard actually) is to install back new cylinder packing A and backup ring, again, it will be easy if you have a special tool (that’s why it called special) – handle driver and packing end remover. To pull out the useless (this is the source of leak) old cylinder packing A and backup ring, I use suitable socket (I think I used 18mm) and extension like picture below.

To install new seals, please refer to Figure 1.0, to make sure the seals seat properly,

I used some stick as gauge, mark from Point A (Backup Ring End Housing)  to Point B (Cylinder End) then to Point C (width of cylinder packing A+ backup ring + piston ). Insert properly cylinder packing A and backup ring onto the steering rack, coat the steering rack with power steering fluid, and insert it in the cylinder, then use stick to measure, until Cylinder End reach the Point C, after that, DON’T TAKE OUT STEERING RACK FROM CYLINDER ANYMORE, it will ruin the seals. The next step,

1. Install the seal holder on the steering rack steering rack.

2. Install the retaining ring on the cylinder.

3. Install new O-ring on the gear housing refresh all grease part. Be sure to apply the liquid gasket to the mating face evenly (0.5 – 1.5 g/0.018 – 0.053 oz) not to let it to drop inside the housing. Carefully install the control valve unit on the gear housing.

4. Coat the rack guide with grease, install with sequence, rack guide, spring, pressure plate, rack guide screw and locknut.

5. Tighten the rack guide screw until it compresses the spring and seat again the rack guide, and then loosen it.

6. Retighten it using the marking before or to 5 N·m (0.5 kg·m, 3.6 lb·ft), back it off about 25° then install the locknut on the rack guide screw.

7. Tighten locknut while holding the rack guide screw.

8. Install the cylinder pipe. Use pipe thread seal tape to make sure no leaking from the pipe joint.

9. Install the new lock washer in the groove in the steering rack.

10. Hold the steering rack with a wrench and tighten the rack end to 55 N·m (5.5 kg·m, 40 lb·ft)

11. After tightening the rack end, stake the four section of lock washer.

12. Refresh all grease, install the dust seals with the boot bands and tube clamps, then install the air hose.

13. Reassembly the tie-rod end. Replace ball joint boot with the new one, Pack the interior of the boot and lip with the grease, wipe the grease off the sliding surface of the ball pin, then pack the lower area with fresh grease.

14. Install back your steering rack properly.

I also found there are leaking areas at the reservoir tank hose, the hose becomes hard compare to the new one, so, I replace it both of them.

Fill the reservoir tank with the new GENUINE HONDA power steering fluid to the upper level mark. Start the engine and run it at fast idle, and then turn the steering from lock-to-lock several times to bleed air from the system. Recheck the fluid level and add some if necessary. DO NOT FILL THE RESERVOIR BEYOND THE UPPER LEVER.

Do the alignment. I run about 3000km, feel smooth, handling improve and what important is, no leaking anymore!