I think, I frequently write but leaking oil, yeah, this is another story…
Once upon a time, the old O-Ring become very old until he didn’t care about what goes around anymore…
DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.
Some oily below the distributor? Sometime, this old O-Ring playing tricks on you, until you thought, your head is leaking! (I mean, your engine head). There will be oil around the corner, where the block mate with the head, this is good replacement after you replacing the camshaft plug and VTEC solenoid gasket.
This procedure is specifically for Honda Tec distributor, other brand may have same or different procedure. So, the first step is to remove the 2-P connector from the distributor.
I didn’t remove the spark plug cables for easy installation. Remove three distributor cap bolts.
Marking the related position between distributor and cylinder head, to make sure the ignition timing didn’t out of spec during installation.
Then, remove the distributor mounting bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head. As you could see the picture below, where is the leaking point and O-Ring that responsible for this problem location (external leak). If you just want to change this O-Ring only, ignore the entire procedure below, just make sure everything is clean and install the new O-Ring.
The consequence.
To prevent 180° out of time when install back the distributor end, mark the center shaft and distributor end. Note : The lugs on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft are both offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180° out of time.
Turn circlip remove point to the pin hole, flat screw driver is good enough to remove this circlip.
Turn the distributor ignition rotor until you see the screw that hold the rotor, remove the ignition rotor and leak cover.
Remove three screws (cream color circle) that hold the ignition control module (ICM), TDC/CKP/CYP sensors and two screws (black color circle) that hold the ignition coil.
Remove the wires grommet.
Optional : Remove the two last TDC/CKP/CYP sensors for more work space. TheTDC/CKP/CYP sensors have a small bump on the bottom that fits into corresponding holes in the distributor case so that the sensors will only fit in one place and can’t be adjusted.
My oil seal seem ok, there’s no major leak, but, it’s a good practice to change it since it run over 100k.
This is what the entire system look like.
Pull out the oil seal using the flat screw driver, it should be easy.
Cleaning time! I clean using silicone spray. Before:
After:
There are 2 type OEM Honda distributor O-Ring common type. The dealer tell me that OEM Honda distributor O-Ring make from viton material, that why the price is high that normal rubber type (about 4 times!).
Comparison.
Install the new oil seal, make sure the seal seat properly, I using 14mm socket to slowly push it down.
Install back all together reverse of removal, install the new O-Ring, and don’t forget the marking points that I mentioned before or your engine won’t start.
Install the distributor on the cylinder head, don’t forget the ignition timing marking point! That all, wait for the next chapter of the leaking oil story (I hope not!).
So, this is time for ‘big buddy’, main rear trailing arm bushing, stress by stress, time by time, he need retirement…
Long time ago, Honda doesn’t supply trailing arm bushing separately, they sell entirely trailing arm set! When need to replace? Should check it after 50 000km, but it depend on how you handle your car, modification and the road condition. These bushings are responsible for rear stability, so make sure it always takes a good responsible!
DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.
Some prefer to use Honda/Acura trailing arm bushing removal/extractor (refer the picture below), the benefits is, only need to remove several bolts and you can remove and replace the bushing with the trailing arm still in the car, save your time, the con is, this special tool is a little bit expensive and you need to wait for a long time to use this secret weapon again, except you are full-time car mechanic. And other extremely technique is, to used hammer! I witness this on YouTube. But I prefer to remove entirely trailing arm and take to the machine shop to press the bush.
This schematic take from service manual show where exactly the trailing arm doing the job, the biggest and most powerful arm! Show also the torque spec.
Honestly, this maintenance is very easy and straight forward job, our mission is to remove/deattach anything that connects/attach the trailing arm to the body, necessary only, take the first step, remove the caliper shield.
And next is to remove the parking brake cable, remove the lock pin, clevis pin and clip.
Next step is to remove the brake caliper, only two caliper bracket bolts (orange circle), that all.
Remove any bolt that attach brake hose at the trailing arm.
Remove the compensator arm, one side bolt only…I remove bolt that connect compensator arm to the body, yeah, this is sure will mess with the toe alignment, but it more easier to remove, because the are lot of work space for me. Just do the marking point.
Then, remove the upper arm self-locking bolt.
Remove the trailing arm bushing bolts.
Toing! Remove parking brake cable bolt that attaches to the trailing arm.
And lastly, remove the lower arm self-locking bolt. Easy and straight forward right? Like my texts.
Men shopping time! I recommend you to measure your original old bushing diameter, there are two type of diameter for OEM Honda,
The small diameter bushing is part number 52385-SR3-000. It’s outside diameter is 3.170 inches (80.52mm)
The large diameter bushing is part number 52385-SK7-N02. It’s outside diameter is 3.352 inches (85.14mm)
Goodbye old buddy, take a deep rest, please don’t show your sadness face to me.
The complete trailing arm set.
The oldest one is more thick than the new one, I wonder why Honda reduce it size. From physically and design, the old one look like more rigid and will not allow minor movement, the new one is more flexibility and maybe didn’t keep hard stress and more comfort riding, maybe less for duration and durability, who’s know? There is one another important factor to consider, the material it self. So, time will speak…
But, there a are another option, aftermarket part! This text I copy from my previous post –> There are many topic people around the world discuss about bushing, but what take my attention is, which one material is better, OEM rubber or aftermarket polyurethane (PU)? For my opinion, each other have their own advantage and disadvantage, polyurethane will give extremely durable, maintain steering geometry, enhance handling & ride characteristic and many more than stock rubber, but it will cost you twice or tree! Two friend of mine change fully bushing to polyurethane and they say there is no problem, the only problem is price, I also read about people experience with PU, almost say, it’s too hard for daily driving or family car, and sometime make squeaking noise, and have to re-grease with special grease, there are many brand out there, my friend recommend me Superpro bushing, I also read people choose hard rubber than poly and OEM rubber, for me OEM rubber bush is always fine, it depend on what your car for, mine is only for daily and street driving, so, I will stick with OEM rubber bush.<– End of copy
Also, you have to consider, about total motion that a suspension has to move through!
Before pressing, measure and remember the correct position (which side is above and below) of the old one. Some prefer to mark when the arm still in the car, on the wheels and sitting on the ground if you lowered the car, to prevent constant pre-load twist that could lead to early breakage because of the bush will twist a little degree from the standard setting, that the great point, but for me, I need to consider about my coilover, how much I lowered my car, road condition (bump and crack), the passengers, the motion of cornering and the bush design it self to handle all the motion, because it dynamically, so I will stick with the natural position.
This is the great chance if you want to replace the compensator arm.
After installing the new one.
Reassembly all back together using reverse step, install the compensator arm bolts close the the the original position (toe adjustment), but, I highly recommend you to do wheel alignment, because wear bush alignment of cause not to match the new one. This procedure also could be use to converted from drum brake to disk brake, just replace the hand brake cable.
After test drive : Improve hard braking, cornering and can handle bumping road better.
I snap this picture after I do alignment and run for 100km, while the car still on the wheels, sitting on the ground and no driver or passenger load, just want to check the position of my trailing arm bush.
The result, almost the same position when the trailing arm still hanging.
For better handling and stylish, this upgrade is the most, why I choose MOMO? because Honda choose them! MOMO steering wheel is the standard accessories for Honda NSX, Integra DC2/DC5 and Civic EK9 Type-R! The steering wheel come with the thick leather anatomic grips design, that give you a firm grip and positive steering feel that you just can’t get from the stock wheel. A bit smaller diameter and aluminum material make it weigh half of my standard EG9 steering wheel! Better not to choose the smallest size, it will ruin the daily driving (except you want to feel like driving the go cart).
To install, is straight forward job, unless if you have an air bag, have a little bit tricky! Need suitable steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits), DC2 and 1992 – 1995 Honda Civic EG are interchangeable.
The standard one.
Remove the center pad and the steering wheel nut, no need a special tool, enough with the socket and extension, the nut will be fairly tight. Remove the steering wheel by rocking it slightly from side-to-side as you pull steadily with both hands.
Install the steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits). Be sure the steering wheel shaft engages the turn signal canceling sleeve. Install back the steering wheel nut.
Install the horn button, connect the two wires to the horn button. It doesn’t matter which wire goes to which connector. If there no connector for the ground (body) just touch it at any place at the steering wheel adapter, put the tape or rewiring, etc., as long as it will stick there. Verify the horn operation. Make sure the steering wheel adapter arrow in the center position.
Insert the MOMO steering wheel and the adapter plate.
Secure it with the hex screw and everything is done. Easy right?
The silver spoke match with the dashboard.
Then take the car for a ride and verify that the turn signals shut off properly after making a turn and don’t forget to attack the corner!
What you’re aspect from the moving parts? Although the CV joints are EXTREMELY tough, but the rubber cover that protects the drive axle joint, it’s also known as the CV (constant velocity) boot, is not. The boots will tear (like mine) or crack over time, and the grease that the boots hold inside will leak out. The CV joint will then be exposed to dirt, moisture and other debris, so you can replace them before damage is done to the more expensive CV joint. Remember CV joints also are EXTREMELY expensive!
The boots will be the indicator for you to service the CV, time by time, heat by heat, the grease itself will degrade, now it’s time to inspect and refresh!
DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.
Raise both front wheels off the ground and secure car with jack stands . Remove wheel.
Raise the locking tap on the spindle nut and remove it. I have 2 method to remove the high torque spindle nut:
1. The easier way, use the impact gun! Or machine gun! (Just Kidding), if you didn’t have any, just go nearby workshop, just loosen it, not to remove! Then hand tight it with the breaker bar, drive slowly to your home and remove it with the breaker bar.
2. Using fully of your superman power with the breaker bar and socket extension to remove! Make sure your wheel still on the car (with the the center cap remove if you have any) and your car on the ground and ask your friend or neighbor to push the brakes to lock the rotor from spinning.
Tadaa!
Remove damper fork bolt,
To remove the Honda LCA ball joint, I highly recommend you to using ball joint remover, that make your life easy, because Honda ball joint is superior tight, some people may prefer use hammer or ‘jack technique’ .
Pry the driveshaft assembly with a screwdriver as shown to force the set ring at the driveshaft end past the groove.
Pull the inboard joint and remove the driveshaft and CV joint from the differential case as an assembly.
- With Intermediate Shaft:
Remove the right driveshaft from the bearing support by tapping the inboard joint of the driveshaft with a plastic hammer.
CAUTION:
1. Do not pull on the driveshaft, as the CV joint may come apart.
2. Use care when prying out the assembly and pull it straight to avoid damaging the differential oil seal.
Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer.
This is the best time to check the differential oil seal for any wear.
This is the main part of the driveshaft, I only remove the driver side (right hand drive), the passenger side is quite similar, except its link with the intermediate shaft that link to the gearbox.
The leaking point at the outboard joint boot close up.
Cut out all the boots band (red dashed line).
Remove the inboard joint and roller.
Remove the circlip (using circlip remover or anything that suitable), according to the manual service, it’s a good practice to install everything back in their original positions, mark the spider and driveshaft then remove the spider using a commercially available bearing remover, but I am just using plastic hammer and its work. It’s hard to remove the stopper ring, the only reason I remove it, is easier for me to remove/install the dynamic damper and boots, you should consider before removing it. Then remove the inboard boot and dynamic damper from the driveshaft.
Inspect and clean everything, remove as much of the grease as possible, replace circlip or stopper ring if needed.
I don’t know why I put this picture, ha ha
Inspect and clean the inboard joint.
Remove the outboard joint boot.
Clean the outboard joint from grease. Inspect for faulty movement and wear, according to manual service, this part should not be disassemble.
Shopping time!
USE ONLY DRIVESHAFT GREASE
Clean up more.
Pack the outboard and inboard joint including inside the boots with the driveshaft/joint grease.
Recommended grease quantity, inboard joint –> 120-130 g (4.2-4.6 oz), outboard joint –> 90-100 g (3.2-3.5 oz).
Crimp the boot clamp tight, very very tight, be careful not to damage the boots . I carefully used a screw driver and pliers, but there is a special tool you can buy that is designed for these style clamps. Once again, very tight…
Reinstallation is the reverse of removal, DON’T FORGET to put the cotter-pin back, the picture show the cotter-pin correct position. Just remember to tighten the suspension to the final torque in the loaded position. To do this, install suspension bolts loose (not even wrench tight), rest the car on ramps, and then tighten the bolts to their final torque.
The CEL (Check Engine Light) at the gauge cluster should turn on and then off after 2 seconds when the key is in ON, but suddenly, it’s never turn off!
Don’t panic, take a deep breath…locate the computer box (ECU) and service check connector on the passenger side, under the dash, behind the foot carpet.
With the key OFF, Connect the service check connector terminals with a jumper wire as shown below and turn the ignition switch on.
The CEL will come on like normal but will then begin to flash.
A LONG flash (1 second) is equal to 10 A SHORT flash (0.5 second) is equal to 1
for example, it will blink, –1sec–1sec–0.5sec–0.5sec = Code : 22
Check your code here,
OBD1 CEL code List
0 ECU – ECU circuit problem
1 O2A – Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B – Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP – manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP – crank position sensor
5 MAP – manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT – water temperature sensor
7 TPS – throttle position sensor
8 TDC – top dead centre sensor
9 CYP – cylinder sensor
10 IAT – intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR – exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO – atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) – idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS – speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 Valve timing oil pressure switch
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu’s
38 Secondary vtec solenoid on JDM 3 stage D15B Vtec ECUs (P2J)
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF – lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF – crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor circuit
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)
67 Cat Converter
70 Automatic transmission problem
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 EGR Valve/Line
86 ECT sensor – Cooling System
90 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak
91 Fuel Tank pressure sensor
92 EVAP Solenoid/Valve/Vacuum Lines
Mine is 22, that mean, I have problem with valve timing oil pressure switch, yes, that absolutely true! One of my oil pressure switch 2P connector wire has been broken!
Need to rewiring! So, I cut out the connector. The blue/black wire is too short, so, I remove the black rubber that surrounding the wire for more space,
Soldering time!
Wrap with 4mm sumi tube for insolator.
Check the connectivity or leakage using Multimeter or any method that similar with.
Surrounding the connection with the liquid gasket.
I using clip connecter to reconnect wire from ECU and wire from oil pressure switch 2P connector.
Sorry for this disaster picture!
Wrap the connection with isolator tape or some people call it ‘the black tape’
And wrap the entire wire.
Check the grounding with the car body.
Reset the ECU, make sure the ignition switch turn off, remove the back up fuse (7.5A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box for 10 secs. This procedure must be done after any troubleshooting.
This is a very important maintenance. Do a valve adjustment at least once a year. Why do you need to adjust your valves clearance?
1. To make sure your valvetrain stays in good shape.
2. To gain power and to safe your fuel (this is the favorite quote!)
3. To decrease unwanted noise, tap, tap, tap, tappet!
4. Will greatly increase the life of your engine.
5. The engine will breath and exhale better.
The conventional means of adjusting valve actuation always require a small clearance to be left between the valve and its rocker or cam follower to allow for thermal expansion and wear.
DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.
Valve should adjusted when the cylinder head temperature is less than 38°C (100°F).
Start by turning the front wheels to the left. Lift the passenger side (Right-hand car) of your car with the jack, this will give you adequate clearance to reach the main crank bolt. But if you want more room, then, remove the tire, open the splash shield a little bit, this will give you the opportunity to check your left stopper rubber and oil pan condition. I use a long extension and 19mm socket to turn the crank, don’t turn it right now, wait until the next step when we need to set the crank at Top Dead Center (TDC).
Disconnect the negative battery cable (I covered up the terminal for safety reason)
Reminder : Make sure your cylinder head temperature is less than 38°C (100°F) and make sure the transmission in neutral before proceeding the next step. Locate your valve cover, remove the spark plug cover.
Remove all spark plug wires and the nuts circled in yellow (yellow?) follows the sequence from 1-8, and remove the other thing that attached to the valve cover (green circle). Now the valve cover is ready to come off, just wiggle it a little bit and it should pop right off.
The location of the adjustment screw pair for intake and exhaust side, the number also refer for the piston, no. 1 = piston no.1.
It will also make it easier to turn the motor over if you remove the spark plugs. Optional. TIP: Sometimes it’s easier to pull the plugs out of the block by using the plug wires to grab them after you’ve loosened them if you don’t have a spark plug socket. I used 16mm magnetic socket.
If you remove the plugs, be sure to inspect them as they can tell you a lot about how the car is running. A light brown color indicates a perfect A/F mixture. White is lean likewise black indicates rich. If you see dampness or oil on it, then you are in trouble. Mine is functioning optimally.
Start by setting the no. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) by turning the crank pulley until the “up” arrows on the cam sprockets are facing up. Turn the crank pulley only counter clockwise! If you over turn, don’t try to turn the motor backwards, just keep turning another 2 rotations of the crank until you get back to your TDC point.
It should be a white mark and or a notch on the crank pulley.
Try to look at the no. 1 piston spark plug hole, the piston should be at the very top, that is the meaning of Top Dead Center (TDC) (Sorry for the unclear picture).
You need: a set of feeler gauges (use an angled feeler gauge), 10mm tappet adjusting wrench (this is the my home made tappet adjusting wrench, just a long socket combined with the flat metal, needed to hold the locknut in place and the flat head screw driver is for turning the adjustment screw on B16A, B16B or B18C motors. Not all the Honda’s engine needs this special tool. I have tried to only use normal long socket+extension, it works! But need more trial and error and time!).
Honda has a specific tappet adjusting wrench, the part numbers are 07MAA-PR70110 and 07MAA-PR70120. This is a special tool and also come with the “special” price, and of course my poor dealer didn’t have this one and even don’t know what it is!
As you can imagine, the exhaust valves get hotter than the intake valves which explains their larger gap
Check the valve clearance for no. 1 piston. I slide the 0.010″ gauge between the rocker and the camshaft (in the gap below the cam lobe) for both sides (intake & exhaust), It slips through easily! I think the last owner probably never had a valve adjustment.
Loosen the locknut just a few degrees
Actually, I only using 3 gauges, 0.006″, 0.007″ and 0.008″. Hold the locknut using the tappet adjusting wrench, and turn the adjustment screw, for the intake side, until 0.006″ feeler gauge slide back and forth with a slight amount of drag and 0.007″ feeler gauge shouldn’t. Same procedure for the exhaust side, .007 should slide in, but the .008 shouldn’t. Piece of nut.
After having the right clearance, hold the adjustment screw and tighten the locknut. Then torque locknut to 20 Nm (14 lb-ft) (be careful to not overtorque the nuts as they strip very easily!) and measure the clearance again. Torquing it will increase the clearance slightly, so keep this in mind when you’re adjusting them so you don’t have to keep repeating the process. Repeat adjustment if necessary.
After you are done with the 4 valves on no. 1 piston, move on to cylinder 3, 4, then 2, in that order. You will need to crank the motor to TDC for each of the cylinders you will be adjusting. Do the same process as before on each of the cylinders.
Repeat the process, double check, triple check, maybe you will find the clearance out a little bit even you have tightened the locknut, don’t worry, it’s normal, repeat the process until no adjustment is needed, I do about 5 times to get it correctly and precisely!
Most of the re-installation process is the opposite of removal.
Has an idle problem after Valves Clearance/Backlash Adjustment? Idle roughly before engine warm up?
If you done correctly and precisely, it should be no problem, reset the ECU by pulling the 7.5A fuse in the fuse box under the hood about 10sec and drive around 100km (on/off), sometime ECU needs to “relearn” for the new setting.
Leaking around the passenger side front of the engine block? Lucky, I’m not the one , probability is, come from valve cover gasket, cam cap or VTEC solenoid gasket, this is common problem for B-Series engine that just exceed 100,000kms old just like mine (me 200,000kms!)
I just done for my VTEC solenoid gasket problem, replace the valve cover gasket, spark plug seal and VTEC solenoid gasket is just straight forward job, but to replace camshaft cap is dangerous! Especially for VTEC B-Series engine. The risk is, you could probably to stretching and breaking the camshaft holder bolt or make your cam unbalance and breaking the camshaft itself! Wow! High risk for a small job, I bear all this in my mind, so, I better not to do any single mistake.
DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.
Locate your valve cover, remove the spark plug cover.
Remove all spark plug wires (do not disconnect from the distributor cap)and the nuts circled in yellow (yellow?) follow the sequence from 1-8, and remove the other thing that attached to the valve cover (green circle). Now the valve cover is ready to come off, just wiggle it a little bit and it should pop right off.
This is the perfect time to check the timing belt condition.
Here we go! This is among the critical part, below is the loosening sequence, I recommend you to loosen the green circle bolts first. It is are good practice to put the crank at TDC, put the cams in with the key-way facing upward to prevent having the camshaft being placed at a full valve open situation causing undue tension. Wait! Before you loosen the bolts, please read the next sentences first…
The most critical part is, when you want to torque it back, I saw many people will break the bolt with their torque wrench, especially the 10mm bolt, even with 3/8″ Snap-On torque wrench which has never been out of spec and torque it properly! I think this is because they overtightened the bolt without realizing it, the torque wrench didn’t reach the target even after the specified torque because the tensile strength, come from the hardened bolt and soft aluminum thread that hold the bolt tight and the bolt itself have a high weakness point because of half thread bolt design, Specified torque : For 12mm bolt : 27 Nm (20 lb-ft) and for 10mm bolt : 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft), so, that’s just a small torque, almost hand tighten, to prevent I come out with my drilling technique, I used this method, I named it “as know as good configuration technique’” I marking every single bolt, red for bolt, blue for base (camshaft holder plate), I just stretched it a little with flat screwdriver, depend on you, as long as there are markings that permanent or temporary permanent.
Then loosen the bolt with very gently that you can, start from green circle bolts to the sequence, remember, very gently, Leave all the bolts in the holes, and take off the camshaft holder plate and MAKE SURE with all bolts stick with the the original camshaft holder holes, if not, all that you done above is useless.
Next is to remove the passenger side camshaft holder, again, gently loosen this two 10mm bolts, I think, if we frequently practice this, we will become more gentlemen I said!
Don’t pry the camshaft holder using screw driver or something to take it out! Warning, or you will regret, a light tap with a rubber mallet (don’t use a regular hammer!) or wood stick should free these up.
Tadaa!
And this is the right time if you want to replace VTEC solenoid gasket. Clean and dry the matting surfaces.
Shopping time!
All the job above is to make sure this thing sit properly. This is metal cap wrapped with rubber. You also can use aftermarket seal make from aluminum and have a double or triple oil ring for more durability, for example from skunk2, blox, etc.
After the cleaning process, apply the liquid gasket, only the area shown below, just lightly…
Put the new cam cap. Properly install, I’m pretty sure you don’t want to repeat every step above.
But, in the end, I end up using Skunk2 Cam Seal
If you want to follow my technique, then, tighten all bolts using three step, first, finger tighten from bolt 1 to 14,
Second, tighten the bolts at the green point (invisible point, just estimated) from bolt 1 to 14,
Third, fully tighten the bolts to the blue point from bolt 1 to 14, if you want to use a torque wrench, there are also three step, for example for 10mm bolts, first : finger tighten, second : 6 Nm and lastly : 9.8 Nm. Good luck!
Install the valve cover gasket, make sure the valve cover gasket is seated securely in the corners of the recesses with no gap. Apply liquid gasket to the valve cover gasket at the eight corners of the recesses, just lightly. Actually, as long as the seal is soft we could reuse them.
Install everything back, just the opposite of removal. Make sure you tighten the valve cover bolts to about 8ft lbs, and follow the sequences, for me, hand tighten is just OK, check the engine oil, refill if needed, check that all tubes, hoses, cables and connectors are installed correctly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil or to turn on the engine, to make sure the liquid gasket is completely dry.
Inspect the valve cover for any oil leaks, and inspect around the cam seal as well. Clean off the area around the cam seal, and inspect later on to see if your oil leakage has stopped. Observe the camshaft cap end over the next few days of normal engine running. If there is a slight leak , you can run a bit of sealant around the end to seal it up. Otherwise do this DIY again and get it right.
This is the rarest item that I get from my ‘runner’, Mugen cat-back exhaust eystem 1st generation for my car, 2.25″ piping, JASMA tag, s-flow type muffler for street perfomance in very good condition!
Let exhaust exit freely will increase the power, isn’t true? There is something that need to consider too, like, back pressure, upgrade or you will downgrade your exhaust system, but I believe at Mugen R&D department.
Exhaust piping diameter is a crucial part in the exhaust system. For those with 1600cc engines and below, stick with anything less than 2.0″ except if you had extensive jobs on the engine such as higher compression pistons or performance camshaft upgrades. For stock VTEC or MIVEC 1600cc and above, around 2.0″ to 2.25″ is acceptable. Some people even use 2.5″ on stock VTEC but the result is poor at lower rpm because the exhaust gas have less velocity to travel. Apart from the diameter, the piping route is also important. Straight pipes are not really advisable for street because they tend to get in the way when you’re running on a road bump. It is annoying and you will get scratches on the bottom of the pipe, or worse bent pipes. Piping that follows the original route is the best. While it gives you stock appearance, many people claim that it gives better low end to midrange power compare to straight piping. While weak at low end, straight piping somehow tend to give better acceleration power because exhaust gas gets out easily because of the shorter pipe compare to stock. Source : http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=251308
Made from only the highest grade polished 304 stainless steel!
From Mugen catalog,
This is my old system, 2.0″ piping, time to say goodbye…
Catalyst converter deleted (de-cat)! Catalyst converters are the biggest restriction to the exhaust gas flow. Removing it will definitely release some more power, but it is bad for environment.
My new system, fits! what the beautiful bend!
Muffler is more to cosmetic rather than performance. There is minimal difference in power output if we compare straight-thru type muffler (also known as N1 type) with s-flow type muffler (which usually have big resonator box). The later is seemed to be more preferable for street usage because more silent, thus giving more pleasant driving experience especially while in cruising mode. Personally, I would recommend Tanabe s-flow like the G-Medallion series because they are very silent when idling and cruising. This avoids attention from the authority. If you are going for N1 type, make sure it is made of good quality. Avoid imitations, they are widely sold by Wei Yip (tidak tipu customer) at surprisingly cheap price. Good exhaust doesn’t come cheap but they are worth it. Try to spend some time to go to ‘kedai potong’ and try look for used branded exhaust. They are worth it. Other than that, exhaust with JASMA tag (not JASMA brand) should be good enough for street. From my experience and observations, JASMA approved exhaust tend to be quiet, unless the used mufflers are already running out of fiber. If your setup is still noisy, it is advisable to install a resonator (bullet silencer) in the middle. Source : http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=251308
Even I didn’t do dyno test, but I could feel, the sound and the power, gentle sound at the low RPM (1-4K), sporty sound without being too loud or raspy at the high RPM (5-7K), silent but deadly! overall sound is just amazing though.
As Honda enthusiast, We’re can’t run talk about good performing and maintaining our beloved Honda’s, Spoon Sports is a BIG name for Honda fan out there, they produced great quality performing parts and has earned a reputation for offering the highest form of service In the world of Honda tuning, but, how about Type-One? What their relationship with spoon? You, are really Honda fan out there will say “Who doesn’t know them? You idiot!”, But do you really know what they actually do in their workshop? They perform maintenance art! They are a true artist, I hope, one day, I will be that level. To know them better, read theirblog –> Type-One Official Blog, but sadly, only available in Japanese language.
You are newbie? Don’t worry, let’s read a little bit about history subject, for hardcore, you can skip.
-Spoon Sport History -
Spoon Sports is a Japanese company formed in 1988. It is an engine tuner and parts manufacturer specializing in cars made by Honda. Their concept is to create vehicles that provide “total technology” and “real comfort”. The company logo of Spoon Sports is a play of words on Ichishima’s name. Ichishima’s first name is Tatsuru, and the Japanese name for crane is Tsuru, hence the logo of a crane. “The company name Spoon comes from an impregnable fortress of a corner at Suzuka Circuit 20 years ago.”
The company tunes and races Honda vehicles in numerous endurance races, and, additionally sells aftermarket parts to automotive enthusiasts. Spoon Sports provides many aftermarket parts for Honda cars. These include powertrain, suspension, aero-parts, wheels, drivetrain, braking system, cooling system and so on.
The founder, Ichishima Tatsuru was originally a racer. So just like Honda themselves, racing has always been in Spoon Sport’s blood. The first car that Ichishima-san raced was a Honda Civic.
Spoon was founded to specialize in tuning Honda engines in Takaido, Suginami, Tokyo along the Kōshū Kaidō Avenue. In 1988, Spoon started house development of a racing computer for use on Honda vehicles. Spoon designs and builds both major and minor components for Honda engines for use on Spoon Sports racing vehicles as well as for sale to the general public.
In 1996, Spoon began selling Honda B engine assemblies which Spoon precision balances and blueprints to ensure optimum performance during endurance racing. Since then, Spoon Sports have moved on to tune other Honda engines like the venerable K20A from the Civic/Integra and the L15A from the Honda Fit/Jazz.
In 1997, Spoon moved to a brand new building in Ogikubo, Suginami. They also began providing “Engine Lectures” as a part of their customer service program.
-Type-One History -
In 2001, Spoon opened “Speed Shop Type-One” across the street from the Spoon headquarters. This shop specializes in modifications to Honda’s “Type-R” vehicles and other performance oriented Hondas which include the Civic Type-R, Integra Type-R, Accord Euro-R and NSX-R. However, Spoon has also modified non-R vehicles like the Civic SiR, Honda S2000, Honda Legend and the Honda Fit/Jazz. The racing versions of the 2001 S2000 and 2003 Honda Fit models (both in Spoon’s then-current blue-and-yellow livery) were featured in Gran Turismo 4.
Type-One is Ichishima’s vision of how a Spoon Sports dealer should be. And that vision is the offer of a “complete tuned car, not just individual parts thrown in without consideration of whether they will work in harmony or simply interfere with each other.” Also, Ichishima wants to make it known this shop was not created to sell parts, but to provide customers with Type-One’s installation skills and know-how of Spoon products.
Speedhunters: How and why did Spoon Sports begin and what was the main philosophy and objectives that you set out for the company?
Ichishima: Around 1980 I began to realize that enthusiasts were starting to get interested in bringing their cars to the track. Back in those days soukoukai (track day) events where people took their street-registered cars to the local circuit didn’t exist, but I knew it would be something that would pick up quickly so that’s when I began to get the initial idea. At that time I was doing durability and development testing for Honda under the “Tatsuru Ichishima Company,” then eventually in 1988 I set up Spoon Sports as a separate company that developed and sold tuning and racing parts. As for the concept it was and still is very simple, make cars fun, not fast. Obviously slow cars are not fun but what I mean is to create a well-balanced package that doesn’t break or fail and thrills in every way. A good balance between power, handling and light weight. For example a GT-R is exciting because of its power but then in a corner, a small well prepared Civic will easily overtake it. So balance through tuning is our philosophy.
Speedhunters: I’m sure a lot or readers will be wondering what the difference between Spoon Sports and Type One is. Can you give a brief explanation?
Ichishima: Spoon takes care of parts development, special works and testing while Type One is where the end user takes his car for maintenance and tuning, like a speed shop or workshop. Type One opened back in 2000.
Speedhunters: At Speedhunters we are lucky enough to have readers that follow us from around the world. You obviously travel a lot and have had a chance to observe how people modify and personalize their cars. What do you think of the various styles you have see in the US, Europe, Australia or other parts of the world? How do they compare to Japan?
Ichishima: It’s hard to say by individual country but generally it’s obvious that a lot of passion exists and enthusiasts enjoy power. I’m not saying that’s bad but for example shooting for 500 HP in a car that is not designed to take that level of performance will lead to failures. I think some Japanese people are different, they tend to focus more on the background and mechanical side of a car to fully understand its history and lineage. It’s just a different way of appreciating cars.
Speedhunters: What is your favorite Honda?
Ichishima: Uhm, (laughs) I can’t really choose one car but one of my most favorite is the Civic.
Speedhunters: Why?
Ichishima: Well first of all it’s affordable and is small and compact.
Speedhunters: Which particular model of the Civic?
Ichishima: Uhm the old EG, also the EK. Up until then it was a three-door hatch back, useful to carry people and stuff but was sporty at the same time, enjoyable to drive. It was the first car in Japan to offer all these factors. That’s why I like it.
Speedhunters: What is your favorite Honda engine?
Ichishima: The B16A and B16B and also the B18C, I really like the whole B-series of engines. They are real screamers! (lots of engine screaming sounds follow!) I’ll give you an example. Ferraris and Lamborghinis are like women that are great in bed, but not so great at cleaning the house or cooking.
The B-series is a more balanced engine; it’s great in bed but also great at doing the chores. Frugal and civilized. You get the idea? Also, the most important thing about an engine is the noise and sound (more engine noises follow!). It has to give you goose bumps. Anyway, I like non-gimmicky cars, I like simple cars and engines.
-END of interview-
Wow! Honda Civic Eg is one of Ichisma favorite car, make me proud of my beloved EG
Since Honda already builds its engines to very high standards, it’s hard to improve more without compromising longevity and usability, We’ve all heard stories of people bolting on pod filters and large bore exhausts to their Honda in the pursuit of power gains when, in actual fact, they were achieving the exact opposite. You certainly can’t disrupt the fine-tuning and precise balance between intake and exhaust on high-compression naturally aspirated engines. It’s precisely this way of thinking that has pushed Spoon to further fine-tune Honda powerplants, rather than “disturb” their natural balance.
You may think engine build is simple as just assemble each parts. But the most important thing when you build engine is how build it to. For example, if built a standard engine with more care like cleaning individual parts carefully and measure those parts correctly, the engine should perform better even if it’s standard specification. Even it will be possible to change character of the engine. This is what their specialty, fine-tuning and took restriction away from the engine, from what I read from their browser, their skilled engine builder spends three days for cleaning and parts and build engine as same as racing engine standard.
Below is several pictures I take from Type-One Official Blog & speedhunters.com, all credit and copyright belong to them. I hope you will find some idea and inspiration,
Yes, I know…this is lame topic, but, as engineering student, Honda Civic Type-R production is always give me a great inspiration “The quality never know the bound”! so, you can say, this is my tribute entry. I collected the fact and data from the internet. I recommend you to read this article if you are newbie about Honda VTEC before you scroll down.
This topic I would like to dedicate to the first model of Honda Civic Type-R , EK-9, the legendary, the legacy, the power of dream!
Introduction
The Honda Civic Type R is the highest performance version of the Honda Civic made by Honda Motor Company of Japan. It features a lightened and stiffened body, specially tuned engine and upgraded brakes and chassis. Red is also used in the interior to give it a special sporting distinction and to separate it from other Honda models. In Japan, a one-make series of Honda Type R cars where privateers can purchase an off-road Type R and compete in a series championship is a stepping stone for many aspiring racing drivers. Source : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Civic_Type_R#Premier_Special_Edition
1st generation (EK9 chassis)
The first Civic to receive the ‘Type R’ name was based on the 6th-generation ‘EK’ Civic. The contributing base model was the JDM Civic 3-door hatchback called SiR, code named EK4. Like its big brother the Integra Type R DC2/JDM DB8, the Civic SiR’s transformation into a Type R was achieved by working on the base model and improving it to Honda’s idea of a car capable of high performance on the circuit.
The first Civic to receive the Type R badge was introduced in 1998 as the EK9. The EK9 shared many characteristics with the Integra Type R DC2/ JDM DB8 such as omission of sound deadening and other weight-reduction measures, a hand-ported B16B engine, front helical limited-slip differential and close ratio gearbox etc.. The B16B engine boasted one of the highest power output per litre of all time for an NA engine with 185 PS (136 kW; 182 hp) from a 1.6L. For the first time, a strategically seam welded monocoque chassis was used to improve chassis rigidity. The interior featured red Recaro seats,red Recaro door cards and red Recaro floor mat, a titanium shift knob and a Momo steering wheel. In 1999 the Type Rx was introduced featuring a CD player, body colored retractable electric door mirrors, power windows, auto air conditioning, key-less entry unlock system, aluminum sports pedals, and a carbon type center panel. The SiR badge from the previous 2 generations was ceded to the EK4 Civic as a mainstream sedan and hatchback which was sold in huge numbers across the globe due to its relatively low cost, practicality and everyday usable street performance/drivability.
- End of Introduction -
To make you clear, I’ll put the data that I collected from WWW, this the comparison between base model (EK-4) was also the great car and Type-R model (EK-9) improve from the great car and engine!
Body
Model Variant
VTi-R
TYPE R
Car Series
EK4
EK9
Year
1995-1998
1997 – 2001
Doors and Body Style
3DR Hatch
3DR Hatch
Engine Size
1595cc B16A2
1595cc B16B Spec R
Fuel System
MULTI POINT F/INJ
MULTI POINT F/INJ
Cylinders
4
4
Transmission
5M
5M with LSD
Standard Features
15″ Alloy Wheels, 4 Speaker Stereo, ABS (Antilock Brakes), Adjustable Steering Col. – Tilt & Reach, Air Conditioning, Airbags – Driver & Passenger (Dual), Central Locking, Engine Immobiliser, Paint – Metallic, Power Door Mirrors, Power Steering, Power Windows, Radio Cassette, Sunroof – Electric and Tilt, Suspension – Sports, Seats – Sport bucket, Centre Console with dual cup holder, Rear seat head restraints, Digital Clock
Central Locking, Power Windows, Power Mirrors, Power Steering, Radio Cassette with 4 Speakers, Dual Airbag Package, ABS
Cosmetics
Leather wrapped MOMO Steering wheel with SRS airbag, Red Carpet, Red Arm rests, Red Floormats with Type R badging, Titanium gear shifter, Red stiched boot, Carbon centre dash console with Type R badge, Type R Instument cluster, Carbon dash bezel, Emergency Flare, No Coin holder, Red Recaro seats, Bodykit, Red exterior badging, Colour coded exterior panels, UV cut glass, Privacy glass,
Red engine head cover,
Aluminum radiator,
Helical LSD
Front Brakes
Vented Discs, ABS
Larger Vented Disc , ABS (optional)
Rear Brakes
Disc
Disc
Wheel Dimension
195-55-15
195-55-15 Enkei 5 stud PCD
Turning Circle
9.8m
9.8m
Tank Capacity
45 litres
50litres
Exterior Length
4180mm
4185mm
Exterior Width
1695mm
1695mm
Exterior Height
1375mm
1360mm
Front Track
1475mm
1480mm
Rear Track
1475mm
1480mm
Wheel Base
2620mm
2620mm
Front Suspension
Ind; double wishbones with coil springs gas damper and stabiliser bars
Ind; double wishbones with coil springs gas damper
Rear Suspension
Ind; double wishbones with coil springs gas damper and stabiliser bars
Ind; double wishbones with coil springs gas damper and trailing link
Kerb Weight
1105kg
1059kg (97 Spec) 1089kg (98 Spec)
Ground Clearance
106mm
105mm
1/4 Mile time
16.2
15.5
Power Section
Engine
Engine Type
B16A (1992-1995)JDM
B16B Spec R
Bore x Stroke
81×87.2mm
81×87.2mm
Maximum Output
170ps/7800rpm
185ps/8200rpm
Maximum Torque
16.0kg-m/7300rpm
16.3kg-m/7500rpm
Displacement
1595cc
1595cc
Compression
10.4
10.8
Maximum RPM
8000rpm
8400rpm
Valve Timing at 1mm lift IN Open/Close
EX Open/Close
BTDC15/ABDC45BBDC40/ATDC7
BTDC18/ABDC45BBDC45/ATDC10
Valve Lift (Max Lift)
IN 10.7mm, EX 9.4mm
IN 11.5mm, EX 10.5mm
Inlet Valve Diamter
33mm x 2mm
33mm x 2mm
Spark Plug Type
Heat Rate #6
Heat Rate #7 platinum
Throttle Bore Diameter
60mm
60mm
Intake Manifold
Single pipe sideflow
Single pipe sideflow
Air Intake Diameter
65mm
65mm
Exhaust Manifold
4-to-2
4-to-2
Exhaust Pipe Diameter
48.6-50.8mm
57.2mm
Silencer Flow Capacity
98liter/sec
115liter/sec
Cam Profile
Max Lift (IN/EX)Open Timing (IN/EX)Close Timing (IN/EX)
10.7/9.4BTDC15/BBDC40ABDC 45/ATDC 7
11.5/10.5BTDC 18/BBDC45BTDC 45/ATDC 10
Connecting rod bearing width
19.5 mm
Tetra-methyl lead coated crank
17.5 mm
Connecting rod
Chrome carbon steel
High chrome carbon steel
Piston
Molybdenum coated low friction
Block Height
263mm
270mm
Drivetrain
LSD
Helical LSD
None
Code
S80 (S4C)
Y2
Gear Ratio
1st
3.230
3.230
2nd
2.105
2.105
3rd
1.458
1.458
4th
1.107
1.107
5th
0.848
0.848
Reverse
3.000
3.000
Final Gear Ratio
4.400
4.400
The Masterpiece of Art!
So, what actually they (Honda’s Engineer) do? To create such a masterpiece, not an easy task, to create masterpiece (B16B) from already masterpiece (B16A) is very difficult task! And I’m here not only talked about power, because, with ‘aftermarket’ it’s very easy to archive as long as you have money, I’m more focus about balance, harmonic, durability, research and art!
On the below are the power curves for B16A 170ps versus B16B. Note the big gain in power after 6000rpm, the VTEC switch-over point between mild and wild cam profiles. The gain at extreme high rpms is readily apparent on the curves. Source : http://asia.vtec.net/beystock/honda/civicr/
Honda tune the R by hand
This is one of the factors why R are so limited, Honda using their experience and knowledge gained in the racing field and making use of it in their production lines for street cars. The Civic’s VTEC B16B type engine retained its stock displacement, but Honda increased its horsepower from 170 (B16A) to 185 (B16B). It’s only *15* horses more, but those 15 horses were really tweaked out using Honda’s formula 1 knowledge — from an engine that was already getting 100 horsepower per liter!
Currently, production line engines and engine parts are made by computer-guided NCR machines, and are of very high quality. However, Mr. Fumiyasu Suga (Type R’s assistant chief engineer) believes that in order to make a true race engine, some parts must be built/assembled by hand. In specific, the assembling of the engine, balancing parts, and porting and polishing need to be done by hand. Amazingly, all Type R engines are built this way. Source : http://www.superhonda.com
Piston
One of the keys to tuning a NA engine is the piston. In order to increase the compression ratio, aluminum, pent-roof-type pistons were used. In order to keep a good precision of mass, the aluminum pistons were forged. The piston ring was given more space to move around in, and to prevent piston “head” shake caused by the extra space, a molybdenum coating (also used in the NSX) was applied to lessen friction. Source : http://www.superhonda.com
The piston skirt was made lighter in order to lessen the inertial mass. Since lightening the piston causes the piston “neck” to rock back and forth, a molybdenum coating was applied to lessen friction.
In order to increase compression ratio, the side molds of the pistons were increased, from 10.4 to 10.8, The picture below shows you the differences between JDM Civic Type R B16B and JDM B16A Sir2 (EK4) P30.
Injectors installed on the underside of the pistons allow for improved cooling, and prevent the pistons from getting “burned-in”.
Block
For endurance, B16B used B18C spec R’s cylinder block, that mean it’s destroked from B18C and using same timing belt (Honda PN: 14400-P72-014, not compatible with B16A (14400-P2T-004)), also the engine bridge girdle and cylinder head bolts (90006-P72-003, 11×164) vs from B16A (90006-PG6-003, 11×155).
Connecting Rods
The con rods are specially made for the Type R. The precision weight of these con rods are 2 levels above that of on-line production models. The weight differential between all four rods is so small that it is negligible, and all contacting surface areas are finished off with a race-car, mirror finish, and is connected to a fully balanced crankshaft. Furthermore, the assembly of the con rods and the crankshaft play an important role in attaining the high rpm’s. In order to ensure perfect assembly, the engine is taken off-line and these parts are assembled by hand. A custom con rod micrometer gauge is used, and the stretching of the con rod bolt is taken into account for as the connections are tightened. This is something no machine can do, and this ensures that there aren’t any unwanted vibrations at high rpm. Source : http://www.superhonda.com
Custom-made connecting rods for the Type R. It is made to withstand the higher rpm’s, and is still lighter than the stock parts. These Type R parts are made with such precision that the weight difference between all four rods is so small that it is negligible.
B16B(77.4mm crankshaft and 142.42mm connecting rod) vs B18C (87.2mm crankshaft and 137.9mm connecting rod)
Hand Job Porting
The video below show the porting job for B18C 96spec R, the procedure is similar for B16B, by Honda Motor Co.,Ltd. Suzuka Plant mechanic,
Naturally, porting and polishing excessively won’t yield good results — it will only upset the balance between displacement and peak rpm’s. Some basic physics explained… In any cylindrical enclosure/piping, the closer air is to the metal wall, it will flow slower, and the closer it is to the center of the cylinder, it will flow faster. As rpm’s increase, slight variations in the enclosure will cause for serious air flow disturbances. Logically speaking, a straight, cylindrical port would prevent any problems of air-flow disturbance, but with street cars and their limited engine bay space, the port has to be bent.
The stock port is built to within such precision that it can already withstand rpm’s of up to 7,000 rpm without creating any unwanted air-flow disturbances, but once it reaches 8,200 rpm, the engine struggles to keep the air flowing smoothly. To augment this problem, two of the best mechanics at Honda were selected and assigned to manually port and polish the engine components. Though this limits production to 25 engines a day, this allows for the engine to reach 8,500 rpm, and respectively, 185 horsepower.
Valves and the Valve Springs
Next, the valves and the valve springs needed to be upgraded in order to be able to withstand the high rpm’s and the increased fuel injection. In order to increase air flow efficiency, the angle of the valve seat opening was tightened from 60 to 45 degrees. Also, bigger and lighter valves help to deliver more fuel. Instead of making the valve bigger, Honda engineers made the cone bigger and reduced the stem radius even further. In specific, the underside of the valve cone was shaved to its limit, and the valve shaft width was decreased from 5.5mm to 4.6mm — making the valve 12% lighter than stock. Amazingly, the valves are made so precisely that their static balance differential is basically 0.0. We jokingly asked Mr. Suga what he would do if Honda’s parts manufacturers sent over valves that had weight differences. His reply was quick and simple. “We would toss them out.” Hm… very strict. Past 8,000 rpm, other valve-related problems occur. Such problems include surging, jumping, bouncing, etc… In order to prevent such problems, the valve springs are made by dual-bound springs. Furthermore, Honda used non-cylindrical, “flat” springs in order to keep the spring height near-stock, and still increase rebounding power. Source : http://www.superhonda.com
B16B B18C Type R Intake Valves are same diameter as regular B-series valves but have distinct advantages in being 12% lighter in mass, with noticeably thinner valve stem from 5.5mm to 4.6mm, hence larger cone area and an improved contour for better air flow. Type R lightened intake valves are made so precise that their static balance differential is basically 0.0. Type R intake dual valve springs are specially made to work with Type R lightened intake valves for higher lift and rpm specifications. They are non-cylindrical, flat springs with increased rebounding power while their spring height are still near-stock. This will help to prevent valve-related problems past 8000 rpm such as surging, jumping, bouncing etc.
In order to prevent engine knocking at high rpm’s, NGK’s high-spark #7 platinums are used. Honda is so meticulous with its Type R production that it actually coats the spark plug tip with silicone so the spark plug doesn’t collect any unwanted deposits during the stop-and-go of transportation. (Wow… does that help any?)
Cams
The camshaft profiles (wild cam) change from B16A2 and B16B are :
Cam Profile
JDM B16A 170ps
B16B 98R
Max Lift (IN/EX)
10.7/9.4
11.5/10.5
Open Timing (IN/EX)
BTDC 15/BBDC 40
BTDC 18/BBDC 45
Close Timing (IN/EX)
ABDC 40/ATDC 7
ABDC 45/ATDC 10
BTDC = Before Top-Dead-Center, BBDC = Before Bottom-Dead-Center
The camshaft lift amount was changed for both intake and exhaust valves. The intake lift was increased from 10.7mm to 11.5mm, and the exhaust lift was increased from 9.4mm to 10.5mm. To compensate, the intake opening timing was increased from 15 to 18 degrees before piston apex, and closing timing was increased from 40 to 45 degrees after the piston reaching base. Likewise, the exhaust opening timing was increased from 40 to 45 degrees before the piston reaching base, and the closing timing was increased from 7 to 10 degrees after piston apex. By doing so, the valves remain open longer — allowing for more air to enter the combustion chamber.
Intake
To make sure the engine has a enough breath at the high RPM, the intake manifold was being modified (High-RPM type), the body is bigger and the plenums are short and fat compare to the B16A intake manifold.
The throttle bore diameter for B16B is identical to B16A at 60mm. This means that enlarged throttle bodies for B16A might not be an optimal mod or that a compromise in power delivery might result, eg loss of low-end power in return for gain in high-end power.
Crankshaft
Unlike the base crankshaft, additional balancing weights were added on number 1 and 4, and allows for smooth, high-rpm revving — making it a 8-weight, fully-balanced crankshaft.
The attachment point of the connecting rods to the crankshaft uses a new, adjustable connector that allows the mechanics to manually adjust the connection using a micrometer so they can compensate for the stretching of the connecting rod bolt.
Exhaust system
In order to make exhaust air flow smoother, there are no sharp angles in the header. Furthermore, in order to lighten/strengthen the parts, stainless steel was used.
Impossible to do in mass-production, all exhaust piping is welded together with no sharp edges throughout. Also, the piping was upgraded to 57.2mm throughout to increase air flow.
The muffler is a multi-chamber design, and does a wonderful job of dissipating sound. However, the funnel-shaped piping in-between the chambers makes it a very free-flowing exhaust.
Transmission
Adopt a lightweight flywheel dedicated to the type R transmission , was approximately 10% lighter from the base model. In addition, to reduce the stroke select direction, with the shift direction, change also provides a sporty feel light and applied in conjunction with a double-cone synchronizer speed to the second speed.
Installed with the torque-sensitive helical LSD, to provide excellent traction when cornering. With the improvement of turning limit, the result is excellent acceleration and less understeer, a feel good sentiment turning.
cut model of the helical LSD
The Body
The main points of the body strengthening.
“In overview, over 60 engine-related parts were changed or entirely re-designed for the Type R. We asked Mr. Suga for any other advice on tuning the Type R any further. He replied, “I would prefer that people don’t try to further tune the Type R. No, actually, they shouldn’t try. Each upgraded part works in perfect harmony, and fiddling with the factory setting will only lead to a decrease in performance.” It’s probably safe to say that the Type R is a rare, “fully tuned” and “stock” automobile. ” Source : http://www.superhonda.com
, probability is, come from valve cover gasket, cam cap or VTEC solenoid gasket, this is common problem for B-Series engine that just exceed 100,000kms old just like mine (me 200,000kms!)
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