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MOMO Steering Wheel Installations

Posted in My Automotive Life | No Comments »

For better handling and stylish, this upgrade is the most, why I choose MOMO? because Honda choose them! MOMO steering wheel is the standard accessories for Honda NSX, Integra DC2/DC5 and Civic EK9 Type-R! The  steering wheel come with the thick leather anatomic grips design, that give you a firm grip and positive steering feel that you just can’t get from the stock wheel. A bit smaller diameter and aluminum material make it weigh half of my standard EG9 steering wheel! Better not to choose the smallest size, it will ruin the daily driving (except you want to feel like driving the go cart).

To install, is straight forward job, unless if you have an air bag, have a little bit tricky! Need suitable steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits), DC2 and 1992 – 1995 Honda Civic EG are interchangeable.

The standard one.

Remove the center pad and the steering wheel nut, no need a special tool,  enough with the socket and extension, the nut will be fairly tight. Remove the steering wheel by rocking it slightly from side-to-side as you pull steadily with both hands.

Install the steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits). Be sure the steering wheel shaft engages the turn signal canceling sleeve. Install back the steering wheel nut.

Install the horn button, connect the two wires to the horn button. It doesn’t matter which wire goes to which connector. If there no connector for the ground (body) just touch it at any place at the steering wheel adapter, put the tape or rewiring, etc., as long as it will stick there. Verify the horn operation. Make sure the steering wheel adapter arrow in the center position.

Insert the MOMO steering wheel and the adapter plate.

Secure it with the hex screw and everything is done. Easy right?

The silver spoke match with the dashboard.

Then take the car for a ride and verify that the turn signals shut off properly after making a turn and don’t forget to attack the corner!

Honda Civic SR4/SR3 EG9/EG6 B16A MUGEN Cat-back Exhaust System 1st Generation

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This is the rarest item that I get from my ‘runner’, Mugen cat-back exhaust eystem 1st generation for my car, 2.25″ piping, JASMA tag, s-flow type muffler for street perfomance in very good condition!

Let exhaust exit freely will increase the power, isn’t true? There is something that need to consider too, like, back pressure, upgrade or you will downgrade your exhaust system, but I believe at Mugen R&D department.

Exhaust piping diameter is a crucial part in the exhaust system. For those with 1600cc engines and below, stick with anything less than 2.0″ except if you had extensive jobs on the engine such as higher compression pistons or performance camshaft upgrades. For stock VTEC or MIVEC 1600cc and above, around 2.0″ to 2.25″ is acceptable. Some people even use 2.5″ on stock VTEC but the result is poor at lower rpm because the exhaust gas have less velocity to travel. Apart from the diameter, the piping route is also important. Straight pipes are not really advisable for street because they tend to get in the way when you’re running on a road bump. It is annoying and you will get scratches on the bottom of the pipe, or worse bent pipes. Piping that follows the original route is the best. While it gives you stock appearance, many people claim that it gives better low end to midrange power compare to straight piping. While weak at low end, straight piping somehow tend to give better acceleration power because exhaust gas gets out easily because of the shorter pipe compare to stock. Source : http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=251308

Made from only the highest grade polished 304 stainless steel!

From Mugen catalog,

This is my old system, 2.0″ piping, time to say goodbye…

Catalyst converter deleted (de-cat)! Catalyst converters are the biggest restriction to the exhaust gas flow. Removing it will definitely release some more power, but it is bad for environment.

My new system, fits! what the beautiful bend!

Muffler is more to cosmetic rather than performance. There is minimal difference in power output if we compare straight-thru type muffler (also known as N1 type) with s-flow type muffler (which usually have big resonator box). The later is seemed to be more preferable for street usage because more silent, thus giving more pleasant driving experience especially while in cruising mode. Personally, I would recommend Tanabe s-flow like the G-Medallion series because they are very silent when idling and cruising. This avoids attention from the authority. If you are going for N1 type, make sure it is made of good quality. Avoid imitations, they are widely sold by Wei Yip (tidak tipu customer) at surprisingly cheap price. Good exhaust doesn’t come cheap but they are worth it. Try to spend some time to go to ‘kedai potong’ and try look for used branded exhaust. They are worth it. Other than that, exhaust with JASMA tag (not JASMA brand) should be good enough for street. From my experience and observations, JASMA approved exhaust tend to be quiet, unless the used mufflers are already running out of fiber. If your setup is still noisy, it is advisable to install a resonator (bullet silencer) in the middle. Source : http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=251308

Even I didn’t do dyno test, but I could feel, the sound and the power, gentle sound at the low RPM (1-4K), sporty sound without being too loud or raspy at the high RPM (5-7K), silent but deadly! overall sound is just amazing though.