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Why choose JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) Engine?

Posted in My Automotive Life | No Comments »

Picture : Take from my friend half-cut workshop.

I, personally, love the Japanese racing scene, the regulation, the modification, the philosophy, the tuner, the quality, the JDM racing style!  That not the new issue in here, Malaysia, and many racing scene here is influence by JDM style and growing significantly since the 1980s and I love the 90’s era when the car manufacture build the engine without thinking about complicated emission regulation, green technology, hybrid thing, bla bla, all in the mind is, pure performance and racing technology. That why I love my 90’s Civic.  But if I got the enough cash, of course I will upgrade to more powerful machine like Honda Civic FD2R !

Some of the JDM stuff is not available in open wide, the technology, the specification, and more importantly, the power, is sometimes reduced because of the stricter emission standards and regulations in other countries. I think this is the other reason why JDM Type R is never going outside!

The very strict Shaken  and the Japanese culture itself that do not like to get involved in the mechanical repairs make their car in good condition. The very high price for maintenance and to follow the strict regulation to make the car legal for Japanese roads sometime will make the value of the the car down to zero, even the car is still in good condition (definition from our side), so, recycling is more valuable, that the reason, their engine have a low mileage compare the to other countries. That’s why JDM engine and parts is popular among swapping enthusiasts.

Car ECU Electrolytic Capacitors Leak/Burn/Dies

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This is also a very important preventive maintenance, especially ECU (Electronic Computer Unit) over than 15 years, when the capacitor face a lifespan issue cause by temperatures and ripple currents, electrolyte leaked and will damage your beloved ECU, the most terrible disaster is, your car will stop automatically and your mood change dramatically.

I attached the bad capacitor on the Honda’s ECU that I collected from Mr. WWW, this will happen to your ECU too, it is only a matter of time, so, beware!

Scary enough? The solution is simple, replace all the electrolytic capacitor that available on your ECU board. But, make sure you buy the right and quality replacement, especially the capacitance value (µF), the voltage is not critical, as long is higher than spec, for example, if your spec is 10µF 10v, you also could use 10µF 35v or 50v, this also will give you advantage, cause usually, the higher voltage rate, the higher durability but also come with the big size dimension.

Today I will replace electrolytic capacitor on my Honda 37820-P30-901  ECU (not all P30 series Honda ECU have same capacitor number/location) , I did do original parts (Nichicon PR Series) and replacement parts comparison that I could get from Element14, I sort all the best to find the very best, this is the final list, which is stock available;

Note : N = Nichicon, R = Rubycon, P = Panasonic

Model (Series) N PR R ZLJ N PR R ZLJ
capacitance value (µF) 220 220 100 100
Voltage Value 35v 50v 35v 35v
Case Size (DxL) 10×12.5 10×16 8×11.5 6.3×11
Impedance 0.24 0.053 0.5 0.17
Allowable Ripple 325 1650 190 700
Load Life (hours ) 2000 10 000 1000 7000
Location on Board C27 C27 C94 C94
Order Code (Element14) NA




Model (Series) N PR P FC Type A N PR N HE
capacitance value (µF) 47 47 220 220
Voltage Value 10v 10v 10v 10v
Case Size (DxL) 5×11 4×11 6.3×11 6.3×11
Impedance 2.1 1.3 0.58 0.22
Allowable Ripple 75 120 180 340
Load Life (hours ) 1000 1000 1000 4000
Location on Board C36 C36 C31 C31
Order Code (Element14) NA




Model (Series) N PR N HE S N PR N HE
capacitance value (µF) 33 33 100 100
Voltage Value 35v 35v 10v 10v
Case Size (DxL) 5×11 5×11 5×11 5×11
Impedance 1.9 0.58 1.9 0.58
Allowable Ripple 85 210 100 210
Load Life (hours ) 1000 5000 1000 4000
Location on Board C32,C28 C32,C28 C34 C34
Order Code (Element14) NA




For references:

Good Capacitor Series

Listed from left to right, good to best:

  • Rubycon: YXG, YXH, ZL, ZA (disc.), ZLH, ZLG, MBZ (disc.), MCZ
  • Panasonic: FM, FK, HFQ (disc.), FC, FA
  • Nichicon: HZ, HE, HD, HV, PW, PM, PL
  • Chemicon: KY, KZE, KLH, KZG, KZH, KZJ
  • Unicon: KGM, KXM, KEM

OK, stop with the technical data, if you have skill to soldering, you will save some paper on your wallet, otherwise, you could borrow somebody skill, just  DON’T FORGET ABOUT THE POLARITY.

The targets

The parts

The tools


This is the first time I wrote other than oil leakage, current leakage also could be dangerous, didn’t see, silent, until  it appear, like a ghost! Will scare you until your wallet is leakage too…

DIY : Honda Civic 1987-2000 Main Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Replacement

Posted in My Automotive Life | 3 Comments »

So, this is time for ‘big buddy’, main rear trailing arm bushing, stress by stress, time by time, he need retirement…

Long time ago, Honda doesn’t supply trailing arm bushing separately, they sell entirely trailing arm set! When need to replace? Should check it after 50 000km, but it depend on how you handle your car, modification and the road condition. These bushings are responsible for rear stability, so make sure it always takes a good responsible!

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Some prefer to use Honda/Acura trailing arm bushing removal/extractor (refer the picture below), the benefits is, only need to remove several bolts and you can remove and replace the bushing with the trailing arm still in the car, save your time, the con is, this special tool is a little bit expensive and you need to wait for a long time to use this secret weapon again, except you are full-time car mechanic. And other extremely technique is, to used hammer! I witness this on YouTube. But I prefer to remove entirely trailing arm and take to the machine shop to press the bush.

This schematic take from service manual show where exactly the trailing arm doing the job, the biggest and most powerful arm! Show also the torque spec.

Honestly, this maintenance is very easy and straight forward job, our mission is to remove/deattach anything that connects/attach the trailing arm to the body, necessary only, take the first step, remove the caliper shield.

And next is to remove the parking brake cable, remove the lock pin, clevis pin and clip.

Next step is to remove the brake caliper, only two caliper bracket bolts (orange circle), that all.

Remove any bolt that attach brake hose at the trailing arm.

Remove the compensator arm, one side bolt only…I remove bolt that connect compensator arm to the body, yeah, this is sure will mess with the toe alignment, but it more easier to remove, because the are lot of work space for me. Just do the marking point.

Then, remove the upper arm self-locking bolt.

Remove the trailing arm bushing bolts.

Toing! Remove parking brake cable bolt that attaches to the trailing arm.

And lastly, remove the lower arm self-locking bolt. Easy and straight forward right? Like my texts.

Men shopping time! I recommend you to measure your original old bushing diameter, there are two type of diameter for OEM Honda,

The small diameter bushing is part number 52385-SR3-000. It’s outside diameter is 3.170 inches (80.52mm)

The large diameter bushing is part number 52385-SK7-N02. It’s outside diameter is 3.352 inches (85.14mm)

Goodbye old buddy, take a deep rest, please don’t show your sadness face to me.

The complete trailing arm set.

The oldest one is more thick than the new one, I wonder why Honda reduce it size. From physically and design, the old one look like more rigid and will not allow minor movement, the new one is more flexibility and maybe didn’t keep hard stress and more comfort riding, maybe less for duration and durability, who’s know? There is one another  important factor to consider, the material it self. So, time will speak…

But, there a are another option, aftermarket part! This text I copy from my previous post –> There are many topic people around the world discuss about bushing, but what take my attention is, which one material is better, OEM rubber or aftermarket polyurethane (PU)? For my opinion, each other have their own advantage and disadvantage, polyurethane will give extremely durable, maintain steering geometry, enhance handling & ride characteristic and many more than stock rubber, but it will cost you twice or tree! Two friend of mine change fully bushing to polyurethane and they say there is no problem, the only problem is price,  I also read about people experience with  PU, almost say, it’s too hard for daily driving or family car, and sometime make squeaking noise, and have to re-grease with special grease, there are many brand out there, my friend recommend me Superpro bushing, I also read people choose hard rubber than poly and OEM rubber, for me OEM rubber bush is always fine,  it depend on what your car for, mine is only for daily and street driving, so, I will stick with OEM rubber bush.<– End of copy

Also, you have to consider, about total motion that a suspension has to move through!

Before pressing, measure and remember the correct position (which side is above and below) of the old one. Some prefer to mark when the arm still in the car, on the wheels and sitting on the ground if you lowered the car, to prevent constant pre-load twist that could lead to early breakage because of the bush will twist a little degree from the standard setting, that the great point, but for me, I need to consider about my coilover, how much I lowered my car, road condition (bump and crack), the passengers, the motion of cornering and the bush design it self to handle all the motion, because it dynamically, so I will stick with the natural position.

This is the great chance if you want to replace the compensator arm.

After installing the new one.

Reassembly all back together using reverse step, install the compensator arm bolts close the the the original position (toe adjustment), but, I highly recommend you to do wheel alignment, because wear bush alignment of cause not to match the new one. This procedure also could be use to converted from drum brake to disk brake, just replace the hand brake cable.

After test drive : Improve hard braking, cornering and can handle bumping road better.

I snap this picture after I do alignment and run for 100km, while the car still on the wheels, sitting on the ground and no driver or passenger load, just want to check the position of my trailing arm bush.

The result, almost the same position when the trailing arm still hanging.

MOMO Steering Wheel Installations

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For better handling and stylish, this upgrade is the most, why I choose MOMO? because Honda choose them! MOMO steering wheel is the standard accessories for Honda NSX, Integra DC2/DC5 and Civic EK9 Type-R! The  steering wheel come with the thick leather anatomic grips design, that give you a firm grip and positive steering feel that you just can’t get from the stock wheel. A bit smaller diameter and aluminum material make it weigh half of my standard EG9 steering wheel! Better not to choose the smallest size, it will ruin the daily driving (except you want to feel like driving the go cart).

To install, is straight forward job, unless if you have an air bag, have a little bit tricky! Need suitable steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits), DC2 and 1992 – 1995 Honda Civic EG are interchangeable.

The standard one.

Remove the center pad and the steering wheel nut, no need a special tool,  enough with the socket and extension, the nut will be fairly tight. Remove the steering wheel by rocking it slightly from side-to-side as you pull steadily with both hands.

Install the steering wheel adapter (steering hubs/boss kits). Be sure the steering wheel shaft engages the turn signal canceling sleeve. Install back the steering wheel nut.

Install the horn button, connect the two wires to the horn button. It doesn’t matter which wire goes to which connector. If there no connector for the ground (body) just touch it at any place at the steering wheel adapter, put the tape or rewiring, etc., as long as it will stick there. Verify the horn operation. Make sure the steering wheel adapter arrow in the center position.

Insert the MOMO steering wheel and the adapter plate.

Secure it with the hex screw and everything is done. Easy right?

The silver spoke match with the dashboard.

Then take the car for a ride and verify that the turn signals shut off properly after making a turn and don’t forget to attack the corner!

My car DIY motivation

Posted in My Automotive Life, My Life | No Comments »

I like to maintain my car with my own hand, not because I’m the cheapest person, yes, maybe a little bit about the cost…some people treat their car just for tool or equipment to go to the office, shopping, ride with girlfriend etc. just simply as a vehicle, but for me, car more than that, it gives me motivation, skill, knowledge if you have the time to ask, care and keep in touch with him, it feels so difference to drive the car that you care with your own hand, the perfect word that I could think is “satisfying”, even with just simple as changing the oil, or putting some grease…

If you love him, he will feel the same with you.