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Posts Tagged Gasket

DIY : Honda Civic/Integra Distributor Oil Seal and O-Ring Replacement

Posted in My Automotive Life | 4 Comments »

I think, I frequently write about leaking oil, yeah, this is another story…

Once upon a time, the old O-Ring become very old until he didn’t care about what goes around anymore…

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Some oily below the distributor? Sometime, this old O-Ring playing tricks on you, until you thought, your head is leaking! (I mean, your engine head). There will be oil around the corner, where the block mate with the head, this is good replacement after you replacing the camshaft plug and VTEC solenoid gasket.

This procedure is specifically for Honda Tec distributor, other brand may have same or different procedure. So, the first step is to remove the 2-P connector from the distributor.

I didn’t remove the spark plug cables for easy installation. Remove three distributor cap bolts.

Marking the related position between distributor and cylinder head, to make sure the ignition timing didn’t out of spec during installation.

Then, remove the distributor mounting bolts, then remove the distributor from the cylinder head. As you could see the picture below, where is the leaking point and O-Ring that responsible for this problem location (external leak). If you just want to change this O-Ring only, ignore the entire procedure below, just make sure everything is clean and install the new O-Ring.

The consequence.

To prevent 180° out of time when install back the distributor end, mark the center shaft and distributor end. Note : The lugs on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft are both offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180° out of time.

Turn circlip remove point to the pin hole, flat screw driver is good enough to remove this circlip.

Turn the distributor ignition rotor until you see the screw that hold the rotor, remove the ignition rotor and leak cover.

Remove three screws (cream color circle) that hold the ignition control module (ICM), TDC/CKP/CYP sensors and two screws (black color circle) that hold the ignition coil.

Remove the wires grommet.

Optional : Remove the two last TDC/CKP/CYP sensors for more work space. TheTDC/CKP/CYP sensors have a small bump on the bottom that fits into corresponding holes in the distributor case so that the sensors will only fit in one place and can’t be adjusted.

My oil seal seem ok, there’s no major leak, but, it’s a good practice to change it since it run over 100k.

This is what the entire system look like.

Pull out the oil seal using the flat screw driver, it should be easy.

Cleaning time! I clean using silicone spray. Before:


There are 2 type OEM Honda distributor O-Ring common type. The dealer tell me that OEM Honda distributor O-Ring make from viton material, that why the price is high that normal rubber type (about 4 times!).


Install the new oil seal, make sure the seal seat properly, I using 14mm socket to slowly push it down.

Install back all together reverse of removal, install the new O-Ring, and don’t forget the marking points that I mentioned before or your engine won’t start.

Install the distributor on the cylinder head,  don’t forget the ignition timing marking point! That all, wait for the next chapter of the leaking oil story (I hope not!).

DIY : Honda Civic B-Series Engine Head/Valve Cover Gasket/Seal & Camshaft Cap/Seal/Plug Replacement

Posted in My Automotive Life | No Comments »

Leaking around the passenger side front of the engine block? Lucky, I’m not the one , probability is, come from valve cover gasket, cam cap or VTEC solenoid gasket, this is common problem for B-Series engine that just exceed 100,000kms old just like mine (me 200,000kms!)

 I just done for my VTEC solenoid gasket problem, replace the valve cover gasket, spark plug seal and VTEC solenoid gasket is just straight forward job, but to replace camshaft cap is dangerous! Especially for VTEC  B-Series engine. The risk is, you could probably to stretching and breaking the camshaft holder bolt or make your cam unbalance and breaking the camshaft itself! Wow! High risk for a  small job, I bear all this in my mind, so, I better not to do any single mistake.

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

Locate your valve cover, remove the spark plug cover.

Remove all spark plug wires (do not disconnect from the distributor cap)and the nuts circled in yellow (yellow?) follow the sequence from 1-8, and remove the other thing that attached to the valve cover (green circle). Now the valve cover is ready to come off, just wiggle it a little bit and it should pop right off.

This is the perfect time to check the timing belt condition.

Here we go! This is among the critical part, below is the loosening sequence, I recommend you to loosen the green circle bolts first. It is are good practice to put the crank at TDC, put the cams in with the key-way facing upward to prevent having the camshaft being placed at a full valve open situation causing undue tension. Wait! Before you loosen the bolts, please read the next sentences first…

The most critical part is, when you want to torque it back, I saw many people will break the bolt with their torque wrench, especially the 10mm bolt, even with 3/8″ Snap-On torque wrench which has never been out of spec and torque it properly! I think this is because they overtightened the bolt without realizing it, the torque wrench didn’t reach the target even after the specified torque because the tensile strength, come from the hardened bolt and soft aluminum thread that hold the bolt tight and the bolt itself have a high weakness point because of half thread bolt design, Specified torque : For 12mm bolt : 27 Nm (20 lb-ft) and for 10mm bolt : 9.8 Nm (7.2 lb-ft), so, that’s just a small torque, almost hand tighten,  to prevent I come out with my drilling technique, I used this method, I named it “as know as good configuration technique'” I marking every single bolt, red for bolt, blue for base (camshaft holder plate), I just stretched it a little with flat screwdriver, depend on you, as long as there are markings that permanent or temporary permanent.

Then loosen the bolt with very gently that you can, start from green circle bolts to the sequence, remember, very gently, Leave all the bolts in the holes, and take off the camshaft holder plate and MAKE SURE with all bolts stick with the the original camshaft holder holes, if not, all that you done above is useless.

Next is to remove the passenger side camshaft holder, again, gently loosen this two 10mm bolts, I think, if we frequently practice this, we will become more gentlemen I said!

Don’t pry the camshaft holder using screw driver or something to take it out! Warning, or you will regret, a light tap with a rubber mallet (don’t use a regular hammer!) or wood stick should free these up.


And this is the right time if you want to replace VTEC solenoid gasket. Clean and dry the matting surfaces.

Shopping time!

All the job above is to make sure this thing sit properly. This is metal cap wrapped with rubber. You also can use aftermarket seal make from aluminum and have a double or triple oil ring for more durability, for example from skunk2, blox, etc.

After the cleaning process, apply the liquid gasket, only the area shown below, just lightly…

Put the new cam cap. Properly install, I’m pretty sure you don’t want to repeat every step above.

But, in the end, I end up using Skunk2 Cam Seal

If you want to follow my technique, then, tighten all bolts using three step, first, finger tighten from bolt 1 to 14,

Second, tighten the bolts at the green point (invisible point, just estimated) from bolt 1 to 14,

Third, fully tighten the bolts to the blue point from bolt 1 to 14, if you want to use a torque wrench, there are also three step, for example for 10mm bolts, first : finger tighten, second : 6 Nm and lastly : 9.8 Nm. Good luck!

Install the valve cover gasket, make sure the valve cover gasket is seated securely in the corners of the recesses with no gap. Apply liquid gasket to the valve cover gasket at the eight corners of the recesses, just lightly. Actually, as long as the seal is soft we could reuse them.

Install everything back, just the opposite of removal. Make sure you tighten the valve cover bolts to about 8ft lbs, and follow the sequences, for me, hand tighten is just OK, check the engine oil, refill if needed, check that all tubes, hoses, cables and connectors are installed correctly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil or to turn on the engine, to make sure the liquid gasket is completely dry.

Inspect the valve cover for any oil leaks, and inspect around the cam seal as well. Clean off the area around the cam seal, and inspect later on to see if your oil leakage has stopped. Observe the camshaft cap end over the next few days of normal engine running. If there is a slight leak , you can run a bit of sealant around the end to seal it up. Otherwise do this DIY again and get it right .

Another leaking point is terminated!

DIY : Honda Civic B-Series Engine Oil Pan/Oil Sump Gasket Replacement

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This is critical maintenance issue to handle (if you are first timer), every step to install is critical, the worse case is, your engine oil may dry at the time you drive and overheat or you just lucky to repeat all the step and waste your time and money, I bear all this in my mind, so, I better not to do any single mistake.

DISCLAIMER: I can not say this is the best or safest way to do. I am not
responsible for any thing you damage, or what ever harm you cause to
yourself or others. This is how I did it and it worked for me.

First, need to make sure the leak is REALLY come from oil pan/oil sump or somewhere else, so, after looking around, yes obviously…

1st step, drain out the engine oil…

This is the reason why you need to replace oil drain bolt washer,

To gain more access room, remove the splash shield,

The next step is to remove entire header (I mean before catalyst converter), need to disconnect the oxygen sensor at the first place,

Remove exhaust pipe bracket nut,

Remove exhaust manifold bracket bolt,

Remove nut that tight exhaust pipe (from the header) and catalyst converter,

Remove the header cover and the entire self-locking nut that hold the header, and carefully remove header from your engine…replace the gasket if needed.

I took this chance to cleans the head exhaust side holes from carbon deposit that build-up,

Remove the bracket that connects between engine block and gearbox (optional) to gain more access room, remove flywheel cover.

And then, remove the oil pan/oil sump,

I think, this the source of leak…there are two leaking major factor, 1st the wrecked gasket and 2nd the bending oil pan. My oil pan looks flat and ok.

So, shopping time!

WARNING : The procedure below is a fatal to follow, or you will probably face the never ending leak. Just to remember, this procedure is suitable for Honda B-series engine only and I don’t recommend for other engine type.

This is important step, make sure everything is extremely clean, especially oil pan mate surface and block mate surface, I also clean all the stud, nut and bolt. The cleaner everything is the more you reduce your chances for leaks.

Look extremely closely at the two studs next to the transmission, gasket has 2 metal eyelets inside and lots of times the old ones get left behind on the studs. Remove it.

Put new gasket at the oil pan (don’t apply any liquid gasket at the oil pan), the gasket itself have 2 line that designed to prevent the oil leakage and this is good enough.

Apply liquid gasket (I recommend Hondabond, but my local dealer only have Permatex Ultra Grey RTV) as even bead, centered between the edges of the mating surface (cylinder block side only), just a little bit…I repeat, just a little bit.  Do not install the parts if five minutes or more have elapsed since applying the liquid gasket.

Tighten the nuts finger tight at six points as shown below.

Tighten all the bolts and nuts in two steps torque the bolts and nuts in a criss-cross pattern as shown below, starting from nut 1. Torque: 12 Nm (9 lb-ft), use only small torque wrench, or you can use your six sense (like I do).

Fill the engine oil and drive at the very least 3 or 4 hours after installing oil pan. My recommendation: 12 hours.


Install everything back in reverse and enjoy your drive and free from everyday-think-about-oil-pan-leak .

DIY : Honda B-Series Engine Spool Valve / VTEC Solenoid Gasket Replacement

Posted in My Automotive Life | No Comments »

There are oily around the solenoid valve…

Close up…

Yeah, as I expected…

This is common leak on most VTEC engine, just easy thing to do to fix it, replace the gasket,

First thing to do is, carefully disconnect VTEC oil pressure sensor and VTEC spool sensor, Its advised to perform this on a cold engine

Remove 3 10mm bolt from the solenoid,

This is the surface of solenoid, the gasket come with the filter,

Remove 3 10mm bolt from the top of solenoid, do some inspection, push the spool valve and check its movement, it should move smoothly,

Clean the solenoid,

Compare the gasket side by side,

If you wonder what inside the solenoid,

Replace with new gasket,

Put everything back in reverse order, the torque is about 12Nm (9lb-ft).

Another leak free